Need help to restore a M422/AN* jacket

[mihai]

I just found for a bargain price what it looks (according to the talon zipper/pockets) like an early 40s M422/AN-J3A/AN 6552. The leather is overall in nice condition pliable but with some water stains on it. Also the paint is a bit faded( too much "patina" for my tastes), the collar has some bald spots, the lining is a replacement one, the cuffs and band are a bit frayed. I would like to have it restored this including:
- washing with special detergent (done by me)
- painting it
- changing the liner
- changing the cuffs
- changing the collar fur - I am not decided yet, I would leave it for authenticity sake

My questions are:
- do you know any good detergent for leather/wool besides Woolite (that some FL members used)?
- do you know any manufacture from Europe that can help me with painting the jacket? Are Aero, Eastman offering this?
- for changing the liner/cuffs who is offering a good service?
I do not trust too much the local shops for this kind of operations.

For nourishing the leather after washing, I am thinking of using some synthetic fats. I have a box that Noble House sells of this type. In theory they should be more resistant to oxidation than animal/vegetable ones. Have you ever treated leather with synthetic fats?

 

[Atticus Finch]

Not sure if I understand the "painting" part. The only paint I know of on an original M-422A was the "USN" behind the collar...and not all of them had that. Has someone painted a squadron patch on it?

AF

Post Edit: The only time I have washed a leather jacket was when I once washed a 1976 Imperial Leather G-1. I used a small amount of "Gain" laundry detergent only because that's what I was using for all my laundry at the time. I washed it in cold water, of course, and after it had dried several days, I applied several liberal coats of Pecards. The jacket turned out fine…well, at least as fine as a 1976 Imperial Leather G-1 can be.

 

[mihai]

Thanks for the answer!

Not sure if I understand the "painting" part. The only paint I know of on an original M-422A was the "USN" behind the collar...and not all of them had that. Has someone painted a squadron patch on it?

The jacket has no squadron patch or usn on it. I just want to paint the entire surface of it with a color the closet possible to the original.

 

[mihai]

some pics

Some pics with the jacket, there are some water stains that I would like to get rid of in the first place.

 

[Metatron]

A bit of pecards is what you need. It will liven up the leather and darken the colour. No painting.

 

[Atticus Finch]

If I were you, I would not paint the jacket. People who collect vintage leather generally seek character like that in your M-422A. I would have a professional replace the collar with some new, faded mouton and I would have a professional replace the knits. Then I would apply a couple of coats of Pecards leather dressing to the shell and wear the jacket like crazy!

AF

 

[mihai]

Thanks for the answers!

@Metatron
You got a good point not to paint the jacket, I'll try to keep it this way. Hope the Pecard will darken it a bit.

@Atticus Finch
I was thinking of keeping this collar, is that extremely worn?

Won't the solvents from Pecard weaken this old leather?
How about using some synthetic fats based leather lotion? Got it from Noble House when purchased the jackets. In theory synth fatty acids should oxidize slower than natural ones.

Some fading doesn't harm. But what should I do about those stains all over? A cold hand wash with just water or some mild detergent(any?) ?

 

[Atticus Finch]

I was thinking of keeping this collar, is that extremely worn?

Won't the solvents from Pecard weaken this old leather?

But what should I do about those stains all over? A cold hand wash with just water or some mild detergent(any?) ?

I guess its just a matter of personal taste, but I would replace the collar and knits to make the jacket more wearable. Here's the collar of a D-series G-1 after I had it professionally replaced with vintage mouton.

As to Pecards, it is a very old and established formula. Pecards has been preserving and conditioning leather since 1902. I've been using it for years with excellent results.

You could wash the jacket in cold water, but I think I would just leave the stains as is. The Pecards will likely darken the leather a bit and may actually blend the stain lines with the rest of the jacket.

AF