Need fabric advice for warm weather trousers

[skyvue]

I'm thinking of having some high-waisted vintage trousers I own copied by a mail-order tailoring concern that was recommended here in the Lounge, Prince Henry.

I don't know very much about fabrics, and I could use some input from the Lounge.

All of my high-waisted trousers are fall/winter weight and I need some for spring and summer. Actually, the issue for me is not so much weight -- I like the way heavier trousers hang and drape. The issue is itchiness. Summer's here in NYC are intolerably humid, and I have a low tolerance for itchy wool anyway (though in the winter, I grin and bear it).

So I'm wondering what kind of material might have a nice drape and some heft without being itchy and uncomfortable in the warmer months?

I'm not aiming for anything overly dressy here. I will wear them roughly as many wear khakis today -- trousers that can be worn with sports shirts, but can also be dressed up a bit with the addition of a tie and a sportcoat or blazer.

Getting three seasons' use of these trousers would be a bonus, but I'd settle for spring and summer. And durability, too, would be appreciated. I'd consider khaki, if I must, but I'm hoping for something a bit ... drapier.

But the itch factor is my primary concern.

Here's the tailor's fabric list:

http://www.princehenry.biz/product.php?id=detl&sID=1&codeID=1215

Which ones might fit the bill, do you think?

 

[Wil Tam]

cotton linen or 100% twill

 

[Dinerman]

I would go with a linen. Very comfortable and airy, but breathable.

 

[Tomasso]

I would go with a linen.

Ditto.

 

[skyvue]

Thanks, all.

Would the cotton linen wrinkle less than 100% linen?

And would either work better than the other on chilly but not cold days in early spring and autumn?

 

[H.Johnson]

cotton linen or 100% twill

Humbly, I point out that 'cotton linen' is a conflict in terms. Linen is made from flax (Lat. Linum usitatissimum) and has very different properties to cotton. Cotton is a different plant with very different properties when spun and woven.

Many people believe that Linen's properties lend themselves better to hot weather clothing than cotton. Twill is a type of weave that is tough and durable, but does not necessarily aerate well.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I suspect cotton linen was referring to a blend. Lightness of linen, without the wrinkling issues.

Though i admit that i like the wrinkles. A wrinkled pair of full-cut linen trousers with a pair of linen-y coloured (i.e. creamy brown) espadrilles is IMO the perfect resort combination. Hold onto your hats, we're off to Scarbrough.

bk

 

[CopperNY]

linen.

wear the wrinkles with pride. . when the temperature and humidity really climb, cotton looses the battle pretty quickly.

 

[Wil Tam]

I suspect cotton linen was referring to a blend. Lightness of linen, without the wrinkling issues.

Though i admit that i like the wrinkles. A wrinkled pair of full-cut linen trousers with a pair of linen-y coloured (i.e. creamy brown) espadrilles is IMO the perfect resort combination. Hold onto your hats, we're off to Scarbrough.

bk

yup 60/40... sooo sorry, should have clarified ....

 

[skyvue]

Thanks, all. I'm not so worried about breathability -- I've worn jeans all summer for many years -- so I might try one pair in the linen/cotton combo and one in twill and see which I prefer.

 

[Lady Day]

I hope you dont mind me imposing, gentlemen

Cotton/linen blend is my favorite fabric. It does not breathe as well as its singular counterparts, but its weight is what makes it worth it. Wears great in summer and winter.

I dont find it to wrinkle any less than a full linen fabric. I have some cotton/linen dresses that are in as bad a need of steaming as my all linen ones.

If there is one big bonus for linen, is that is wears so well with age. I LOVE a great washed broken in linen fabric. Those fibers are all nice and broken down, mmm.


LD

 

[thunderw21]

I'll be the first to say it: light-weight flannel.

Drapes well, loosely woven to be cool but thick enough not to be seen through (no lining needed). Cool enough for summer, warm enough for spring and fall.

 

[chanteuseCarey]

another lady chiming in...

I also vote for pure linen. I have lined 100% linen skirts and trousers, and my DH has two pairs of 100% linen slacks, one was custom made here and the other with its matching suit jacket was bought in Italy. I also have seven linen blouses. This is a great fabric! They wear like iron, and though DH pants need to be sent to the cleaners, even with the wrinkles they still look like a million bucks after having them for several years- mine too. At least if they are wrinkled you know they are the real deal... I'm looking at getting two pairs of wide leg lined linen Ralph Lauren trousers myself this season that look like the 1930's.