Need Aero Premier Highwayman customization advice

[jacketjunkie]

That's a great fit actually. Look at the shoulder seams and fit in the chest, you sure you want to size down? Even though I don't share it, I tolerate the super-tight-fit wave some people are on, but in this case I think if you size down because you want less room in the stomach area, you'll end up having a jacket too tight in chest and shoulders.

As Fanch uses to say, a jacket a bit too big makes you while a jacket a bit too small makes you .

 

[Fanch]

I'm inclined to agree with @jacketjunkie that the chest and shoulders looks good whereas the torso might be too loose. With your body build, I wonder if maybe a size 38 Sheene might be preferable to the Premier HWM? Your best input though should come from Carrie.

 

[Witchtrip]

Yeah, it's a hard call, but the pics are deceiving - i put on 3 shirts (tee shirt, button down, wool board shirt) and there was still room (I didn't take pics of that state). Here's another shot with all the wrinkles in the back showing - I had wings almost).

I 100% agree, the shoulders are perfect. the chest & waist will tolerate 2" gone, I think.

And for the record, I'm going for black thread á la JJ.

 

[handymike]

I think you can size down just fine, or taper the waist a bit.
It also looks a touch (1/2" or 3/4") too long. Otherwise very nice. I think you're smart to consider the 2 jacket approach. An Alpca lined teamster will do nicely for the cold.
This is a nice jacket, but keep your mind open. A Sheene or BR cut might suit your build better. There was a great thread a few years back which showed the difference in fits between a 30s halfbelt and a highwayman on the same guy.

 

[Witchtrip]

Thanks guys - I'm thinking I should be OK with a 38, and yes, I plan on taking 1/2" off the sleeves and length. I do like the Sheene a lot, but it has too much of a V shape for my taste - maybe a little too super-hero. I'm going for the starved musician look...

 

[Edward]

Looks good as is (doesn't look like the waist straps arec cinced in at all there?), but if you can take tigher over the shoulders and chest, you'll be fine on the waistband - I think most Aero models loose 2" on the waist by going down one size.

 

[ProteinNerd]

Don't forget you can taper the waist size. ie: size 40 chest so it fits your chest and shoulders tapered down to a 38 waist. It usually equates to an inch taken off each side through the body.

It's what I've done with most of my jackets and I think it turns out great.

 

[Fanch]

Good point @ProteinNerd. Maybe reduce the circumference of the waist by 2" and leave the chest and shoulders as is. Maybe a tad too long in the body and sleeves.

Although my size is 42, I found a 42 Premier HWM was too tight in the upper body. Again, look to Carrie for experienced advice.

 

[Peacoat]

Send those pics to Wade and Carrie; they are the professionals and deal with this every day for a living. We, on this board, while we can give good advice, are just a group of professional amateurs.

 

[Monitor]

I've been told some nice things here about some of the jackets I thought were too big on me, most of which I ultimately moved, and I know this probably won't mean much to you, Witchtrip, but I really, really dig the way that jacket looks on you on the photo above.

As far as I am concerned, you can size down as much as you don't have to. :3

 

[Cookiemonster]

Hello,
This is my first post on TFL. I'm anxiously awaiting a fit jacket from Thurston Bros for my first custom Aero Premier Highwayman. I've been scouring the threads absorbing as much info as possible on the available options. I've pretty much got it sorted, but there are a couple of final details I wish to ask the experts here.

- medium vs lightweight wool tartan: I live in NJ and want a jacket I can wear 3 seasons (I ride a shifty Vespa), I'm pretty sure I'm getting medium weight. Any reason not to?

- cotton drill vs sateen: what do you think is the better choice in terms of durability & comfort? I'll be wearing light sweaters and flannel under the jacket in colder weather - t-shirts/long sleeve tees when possible.

- Brass vs antique brass hardware. Is the antique hardware really dull? I've seen examples of really oxidized looking zip pulls which I'm not crazy about. But I also don't want to look brand spanking new for years while it patinas. Thoughts?

- Stitching: I'm getting black FQHH and love the olive drab. The only other choice would be dark brown. Please post pics if you have them - I haven't seen definitive pics of dark brown. I'm going to search deeper for those.

I think that's it for now - hopefully this post will steer me in the right direction. Thanks in advance for any input!

Cheers

Sounds like the advice thats been posted is .. well...sound. My chocolate brown FQHH Sheene

 

[ButteMT61]

Yup. Size down or taper waist.

 

[Witchtrip]

Thanks everyone for the positive input and feedback! I've finalized my order with Carrie and I've gone with a size 38 minus .5" off the sleeves and body. As a skinny guy my whole life, I've grown to avoid anything that gives me "stork legs" and I do feel like in profile the 40 is approaching that. It's been a total mind-wracker deciding between tapering the bottom 2" as many of you have suggested or just going down a whole size - I feel confident I will be able to stretch the FQHH into exactly what I need in size 38. There are some pretty interesting break-in techniques on the Aero site...

I can't say enough kind words about Carrie and her amazing patience in fielding my endless volley of questions. What a champion! Seriously. I had no idea this process would require so much investigation. You guys really did help me out in figuring out the final details.

I can't wait to post pics of the finished piece. This is going to be a long 6 weeks...


TBC...

 

[ButteMT61]

Awesome. Can't wait to see it!

 

[Sloan1874]

The double fold on the shoulder blades and the loose neckline makes me think that you're a size or half-a-size too large. One of the things about the HWM is that it's a boxy jacket, so it's a little unforgiving on a skinny frame and will hang like a bell if it's too large. I think the shoulders are little on the sloping side too, though I can see how the others might think they're okay. At the moment, if you were to go with this size/style, I think it would look as though it belongs to someone else. I'd either go a size down or try a different, slimmer-fitting style.

 

[Witchtrip]

I totally agree, Sloan. I kind of felt the jacket was wearing me in the pics. Everyone likes a different fit, but I like things more tailored/snug. The premier HWM fit will work in a smaller size, I'm confident. I love the details it has and i love that new collar. Thanks man!

 

[Witchtrip]

I exaggerate - I didn't feel like it was wearing me. The fit jacket was an excellent semi-relaxed fit. If I were only allowed 1 aero and it was the fit jacket, I would be pleased as punch. But since it is a custom, I must strive for perfection...

 

[Sloan1874]

Persevere!!

 

[jacketjunkie]

I wholeheartedly disagree with so much of the things said above for so so many reasons, but I know we could debate this forever and still come to no consens.

Because fit is a question of personal taste and taste is different and that's alright. If you like your jacket slimmer, go ahead and get it slimmer! You have to like it, it must make you happy. You. Not me, not anyone else. And I'm looking forward to seeing your final jacket, regardless of my personal taste!

 

[Fanch]

I can only reiterate my own personal experience with the Premier HWM in size 42 that was OK in the torso and waist but too tight in the chest and shoulders, especially the shoulders. It is my distinct impression that the original HWM is a boxy fit but not the Premier HWM. Judging from pictures of the OP's fit jacket, I continue to think the fit is OK in the chest and shoulders, but too big in the torso and waist, and the jacket also too long in the body and sleeves. I hope that if the OP sizes down a full size, and reduces the body and sleeves lengths that the final product will be optimal and won't fit him like the size 42 Premier HWM did me. If Carrie thinks sizing down a full size will work, I would run with what she says rather than listen to anyone here, particularly me.