Morning coat

[Koechinggendoet]

I want to have an morning coat
In black
Should i get an full black morning coat
Or piped with silk?
I see that silk piped morning coat is absolutely very nice

 

[MichaelRhB]

Where will you be wearing your morning coat?

 

[Koechinggendoet]

I think in june or july,and in my country theres like zero events that need morning coat so i want to be more festive with silk piping/braiding

 

[Steepleman]

I think in june or july,and in my country theres like zero events that need morning coat so i want to be more festive with silk piping/braiding

Why are you getting a morning coat then? They're not exactly cheap, and unlike a dinner suit, you don't even really wear it indoors, unless you're a butler I suppose. And if you get a “festive” one, it wouldn't be appropriate to wear outdoors at an actual morning dress function anyway.

 

[Koechinggendoet]

Actually i get a lot of wears out of my stroller suit,like 8 events in year,so im thinking about getting an morning coat,and next years hopefully if this pandemic is over im gonna go to england to watch the investec derby

 

[Steepleman]

Actually i get a lot of wears out of my stroller suit,like 8 events in year,so im thinking about getting an morning coat,and next years hopefully if this pandemic is over im gonna go to england to watch the investec derby

Oh I see you mean “festive” as in with silk trim. Are you thinking of the taped edges, like Prince Charles's suit here?

 

[Koechinggendoet]

Yes,tottaly right,but im still considering it thought,because thoose are more informal than the pure black without silk edging/tape/piped

 

[Edward]

I don't know of anywhere you could get one with that piping off the rack. Chuck Windsor will have his made on Savile Row, likely well upwards of two grand GBP a pop. Oliver Brown do very nice options, though again not cheap. You might find their lightweight unlined or black linen versions interesting, though, if you want something for wear in warmer months. https://www.oliverbrown.org.uk/clothing/coats-and-overcoats/morning-coats/
If you simply want a high quality morning coat at a fair price, I would recommend either - by mail - Lipman and Sons http://www.lipmanandsons.co.uk/ or Clermont Direct http://www.clermontdirect.com (I think they also have a US outlet), especially for bargains to be had in their ex-rental sales. At least here in the UK, the norm is for a jacket to be hired a maximum of six times before being sold off, in order that it always looks good in photos when hired out. EX-rental is an excellent way of getting good stuff cheap. The big plus with full morning dress (and white, as opposed to black, tie) is that so little has changed for so long that 'current' patterns don't markedly stand out against vintage, imo.

 

[Koechinggendoet]

Thank you so much edward!,just find one morning coat without silk piping but it was fine,i think gonna buy it in around 2-3 months again,got from my friend grandfather whose an dutch,very nice but im still need some money,it fits me well,the top hat is silk or beaver,which one is best for you???

 

[Steepleman]

I don't know of anywhere you could get one with that piping off the rack. Chuck Windsor will have his made on Savile Row, likely well upwards of two grand GBP a pop. Oliver Brown do very nice options, though again not cheap. You might find their lightweight unlined or black linen versions interesting, though, if you want something for wear in warmer months. https://www.oliverbrown.org.uk/clothing/coats-and-overcoats/morning-coats/
If you simply want a high quality morning coat at a fair price, I would recommend either - by mail - Lipman and Sons http://www.lipmanandsons.co.uk/ or Clermont Direct http://www.clermontdirect.com (I think they also have a US outlet), especially for bargains to be had in their ex-rental sales. At least here in the UK, the norm is for a jacket to be hired a maximum of six times before being sold off, in order that it always looks good in photos when hired out. EX-rental is an excellent way of getting good stuff cheap. The big plus with full morning dress (and white, as opposed to black, tie) is that so little has changed for so long that 'current' patterns don't markedly stand out against vintage, imo.

I tend to find the rental ones look rather long in the front and somewhat boxy. They don't have the high, fitted waist at least. Could always alter it I suppose.

 

[Edward]

Thank you so much edward!,just find one morning coat without silk piping but it was fine,i think gonna buy it in around 2-3 months again,got from my friend grandfather whose an dutch,very nice but im still need some money,it fits me well,the top hat is silk or beaver,which one is best for you???

Good question for the boys in the hat threads, I think. To the best of my understanding, silk top hats are no longer made, and vintage examples can be horrendously expensive. Fur felt plush is fine for me as long as it has a nice shape (bit of a curve outwards from base to top, not Abe Lincoln stovepipe style, which can look a bit fancy dress), and a bit of sheen. "Normal", matte furfelt like you see in a Homberg or a Bowler typically doesn't look as nice in a top-hat in my opinion. Though it seems to be perfectly acceptable for daywear nowadays, it lacks something for evening wear. If you're going to invest in a topper that will be for specific occasions only, IMO it's a good idea to opt for one you'll have the option of daywear or evening wear with. Lock's do beautiful options, though of course there are cheaper around! These are what I'd call 'aspirational'...

https://www.lockhatters.com/collections/men-top-hats-cokes-bowlers

I have a Christys, one of the shorter 'luxury' models here:

https://www.christys-hats.com/hats/formal-hats

Not cheap, though I bought mine second hand ten or fifteen years ago for around £50 on eBay - deals to be had if you keep an eye out. The Melusine fur has a very nice sheen that brushes up well - you can see on that page how much nicer it is than the matt, regular felt. (If you wanted to wear a topper daily and les formally, one of those might be grand, though.) I also have a Herbert Johnson which is similar, though slightly more nicely shaped. Again, bought used. The key is to keep an eye on eBay, Etsy and similar, and be patient, I think.

The hat boys on the hat forum though are ever more knowledgeable than me about this, worth checking out the threads on there for a steer. After that, it's down to how much you're prepared to pay!

I tend to find the rental ones look rather long in the front and somewhat boxy. They don't have the high, fitted waist at least. Could always alter it I suppose.

Well, there is an element of care to be taken... its' fair point that some places are starting to turn out monstrosities. On my travels in the Far East, I did once encounter a hotel where the staff uniform included some sort of tailcoat that was, I kid you not, a regular black blazer with elongated tails to it.... You do have to watch. For the most pat, though, I've never found good quality, ex-rental morning wear hard to find. The one ting that seems to vary a little is length of the tails in the rear; some are cut squarer and closer the back of the knee than others, but I've never found it hard to track down options that have the proper proportions at the front.

 

[Koechinggendoet]

Thank you for the reccomendation,but the boys in hat threads say that better to get silk one,fur plush is good but sometime silk in ebay turn out to be cheaper than fur plush,and some of them say that fur melusine get a little bit brownish.