Modern horsehide or goatskin: which is more true to vintage leather?

[Deleted member 16736]

I spend way too much time shopping online for jackets, new and vintage. And I've come to the conclusion that modern horsehide jackets just never seem as good as the vintage stuff. Either they look spray-painted, or there's too much grain, or not enough, or they waterspot, etc. They're just not as good and never will be. I'm not as familiar with goatskin, and I'm wondering if modern goatskin is more vintage than modern horse. Because if so, I may have to shop for a goatskin jacket instead. Anyway, just wondering the Lounge's thoughts on the subject, because as my previous thread shows, I'm too tall for a vintage leather jacket. I'm stuck with the repros. Thanks.

 

[ButteMT61]

I've handled a lot of vintage HH jackets and I have yet to feel like my new, modern HH jackets are inferior in any way. Same for the goat.
I do think goat, in general, may last longer, all things being equal. HH seems to dry out and get harder, but is that because there's no finish like goat? I'm no expert on hides, but naked hides vs finished hides will tend to need some treatment at some point, else they dry out and crack. I don't believe I'll live long enough to see any of my mid-to-high end jackets ever wear out. I've got boots over 20 years old and all I do is put new soles on them every couple of years. The boot itself keeps on going.
As for too much grain / not enough grain, that's all based on the part of the hides used. Seems like you might be looking for something that doesn't exist? I have no such gripes with any of my nicest jackets. Even the lesser ones are pretty good. Aero and GW both have wonderful hides. I've not seen a bad one. Others as well. Schott, Vanson, Langlitz (and lots of others) are probably better than most anything you'll find on a vintage rack.

 

[zaman fu]

I will have to disagree w/ you Joel, especially when it comes to brown horsehides. The vintage brown horsehides I have seen are, in my opinion, usually a very ugly russet brown. I think Aero's browns are much nicer.

 

[Deleted member 16736]

I had a Highwayman and the leather was much too thick and looked crinkly, for want of a better word. The GW got water spots that would last for weeks and the dye came off everytime it came into contact with a hard surface. I don't know, maybe I'm wrong.

 

[dr.velociraptor]

I had a Highwayman and the leather was much too thick and looked crinkly, for want of a better word. The GW got water spots that would last for weeks and the dye came off everytime it came into contact with a hard surface. I don't know, maybe I'm wrong.

Blasphemy!!!!!

 

[ButteMT61]

There are some seriously wonderful goat hides these days. I actually am kinda, sorta, possibly thinking of going that route. But I have to say, I just love the way HH wears in. I have too many jackets and the weathers normally too warm to wear them more than a few months a year so my break-in is relatively slow. That's why I keep telling my wife we need to move up north! lol

 

[bretron]

Butte, don't second/third/fourth you decision on your GW order... Stay the course, brotha!

 

[Hammer Down]

There are advantages to both. My dad has an old goatskin jacket that almost looks new, whereas my grandpa's horsehide looks very antiqued and cool. I think goat tends to wrinkle and hh tends to patina and grain up. HH will get more looks from others if you care. Goat won't. HH, especially from Aero is just more unique overall. Lost Worlds look "spray painted" to me, whereas Aero does not.

Many Aero hides have a three dimensional "living" quality to them that is quite stunning. The life of the animal can be seen in them, whereas the life of the animal is not so apparent in Lost Worlds. Aero's horsehides are organically pleasing and complex, whereas Lost World's are practical and less organic. That's why their ad for a cafe racer shows a guy who speared a bore in Alaska. After running through miles of brambles, the jacket seemed untouched. That is more a testament to the exterior finish of the hide than the hide itself. That is the best picture of a hide on their whole website. Mr. Boar Hunters jacket does look good, I must say.

Lost Worlds' hides are more "flat" because they are indeed finished differently. In a way, they are "painted" as you say. They last a long time and keep their new appearance. That's what some people want. Not me. I am more apt to buy vintage in order to find something with character. I'm sure you can relate to that. Aeros take on character with the years. However, I must say that I think too many men on this site overlook the natural beauty of medium horsehide, which is more like the vintage treasures of yore. Years from now, on the Antique Road Show or some such tripe, people will pay more for medium horsehide Aeros because they will be more unique and rare.

I got more compliments on my 641HH Schott in six weeks than with any other coat or article of clothing I've ever owned. It was a stunner, even though it did not fit and I had to sell it. I wish Vanson still made HH. I feel deprived not have have bought one when I could.

If you are really stoked on goat, then go for it. But why not DESIGN your own jacket? Go through the jackets and choose a back and a front that you like on Aeros site. Mix it up a little. Not enough people do that with goat. If I"m not mistaken, Aero will make goat in any style you request.

Also, you could ask for a unique goat skin for your jacket. Every once in a while, something really cool comes down the pike. Goat, like anything else, can vary depending on the skin.

I like the Selkirk, but the back of the halfbelt Cafe Racer is cooler with two buckles on each side. I would choose that back if it were me. The Sellkirk squares off in an "old man" sort of way that the Cafe Racer does not. It kinda makes the wearer look like an old timer who wears his pants way up over his belly. That is an older look than the cafe racer and some people really like it. Still, it does not hang as well, IMO. The line is not as graceful and symmetrical down the spine.

Also, the front of the Selkirk is very nice, aside from those hillbilly pockets that look amateurish to my eye. Handwarmers or something more sleek would be nicer and your hands would slide into them easier than HH. Since goat is soft, handwarmers beneath a soft goatskin could really feel good in a cold climate if you live in a place with freezing winters. The edges of the pockets will break in first and add some character.

 

[ButteMT61]

Butte, don't second/third/fourth you decision on your GW order... Stay the course, brotha!

lol
I'm already on 7, 8, & 9!
Only thing that's likely to change in the contract. I was fondling all my jackets tonight and HH is just me.

 

[Tony B]

Just got to say Hammer Down , what a good very well considered post.

 

[Edward]

I had a Highwayman and the leather was much too thick and looked crinkly, for want of a better word. The GW got water spots that would last for weeks and the dye came off everytime it came into contact with a hard surface. I don't know, maybe I'm wrong.

The thing about leather is that as an organic product, one hide will inevitably differ from the next. That said, I do believe that the finish and tanning method has a very significant part to play too. When it comes to vintage vs modern, I've handled excellent and appalling examples of each in roughly equal numbers. Vintage jackets will typically feel softer, ime. I suspect this is a combination of factors, not least them having had seventy odd years (or whatever) to become broken in. I do often get the feeling, though, that modern tastes simply run to heavier, thicker hides. I know mine do, probably to be explained by the fact that I cut my leather jacket teeth on motorcycle jackets.

 

[Grayland]

lol
I'm already on 7, 8, & 9!
Only thing that's likely to change in the contract. I was fondling all my jackets tonight and HH is just me.

As long as you don't smoke a cigarette afterwards, I don't think you'll require any counseling.

 

[ButteMT61]

As long as you don't smoke a cigarette afterwards, I don't think you'll require any counseling.

My wife thought otherwise lol

 

[Philalethes]

HH will get more looks from others if you care. Goat won't. HH, especially from Aero is just more unique overall.

Believe it or not, I get more looks when I wear my G-1 than my oil pull Aero Barnstormer - even though I think the horsehide on the Barnstormer has more character, and the jacket styling is fairly unusual. [huh]

 

[warbird]

I think the style has more to do with what gets attention than the hide. Some styles seem to draw attention.

I think overall HH is more common of a vintage hide than goat, at least civilian jackets. My experience has been that most vintage jackets are HH and cow leather.

But, just because that has been my observation doesn't make it true.

 

[crimsonofsam]

The thing about leather is that as an organic product, one hide will inevitably differ from the next. That said, I do believe that the finish and tanning method has a very significant part to play too. When it comes to vintage vs modern, I've handled excellent and appalling examples of each in roughly equal numbers. Vintage jackets will typically feel softer, ime. I suspect this is a combination of factors, not least them having had seventy odd years (or whatever) to become broken in. I do often get the feeling, though, that modern tastes simply run to heavier, thicker hides. I know mine do, probably to be explained by the fact that I cut my leather jacket teeth on motorcycle jackets.

I agree.I own 3 vintage HH jackets and I would estimate the hides to be between 2.5-3 oz.

 

[bretron]

lol
I'm already on 7, 8, & 9!
Only thing that's likely to change in the contract. I was fondling all my jackets tonight and HH is just me.

I keep eying that dark seal acme with the berry knits- sharp as a tack you're gonna love it