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Maxwell in brown FQHH - Configuration questions

Montecristo

New in Town
Messages
29
While reading the whole (and I mean that literally) Thurston Bros. / Insurrection thread I developed a burning desire to own an Aero Maxwell in brown FQHH and thus needed to abandon my plans of buying a black Cafe Racer for the moment. But with each new page of that thread new questions about all the options came up. So please help me choosing the best configuration for that jacket.

Colour: this was an easy one with the black Cafe Racer I was intended to buy when the world was still simple and before I read that damn thread;-) I saw so many different shades of brown in there that I am not sure what the right way to go about it would be. How strong do the shades of brown vary at Aero? Are the differences in the pictures pure photographic/lighting issues or is there really such a big difference in colour when choosing brown.

I would prefer a rich and deep „saddle“ kind of brown that has not so much red in it, like in this picture that was posted here:


On the other hand, this more shiny and slightly lighter looking leather is just amazing:


Again, do you think this is just a lighting issue and the difference is only there in pictures or does the leather really look that different in reality?

Does the brown get darker or lighter with age? I originally wanted to tell Aero they should select the darkest hide but when it gets even darker with age I am afraid of ending up with a jacket that looks almost black.


Breast pocket: At the moment I am inclined to order without such a pocket because of looks, on the other hand it would be more practical. Is the breast pocket deep enough to use it as a proper storing place or is it only cosmetics? I am asking since it is not closed by buttons/zipper.

What do you think about two inside pockets instead? Will the “shine trough” issue really be such a terrible thing?

I would like to have one inside pocket with zipper, one with button. Does anything speak against that idea?

Cuffs: I am planning to ask for adjustable cuffs with two buttons: one to keep the strap in place when the sleeve end is in parallel shape (“open”), one additional button to further tighten the sleeve ends for a more tapered silhouette on the sleeve shape. Has anyone ever ordered this from Aero?

Bottom pockets: I would like to ask them to do the slanted hand pockets with a buttoned flap. What do you think of this idea? I like to be able to secure stuff from falling out and the optics could be interesting.

Throat latch: I would like to have a latch that closes the collar when flipped up against wind, something like this:


My concern is, that you can see the stitching of the button on the upside of the collar. Does anyone have experience with this? Could this be an issue?

Bottom hem: I like the idea of having a bottom hem that prevents the lining from sacking. What do you think is better, leather or corduroy?

Length: in most pictures the Maxwell looks as if it ends just at the belt line. I would like to have it a little longer so that it is about 2 or 3 inches below the belt. Do you think that would be a good idea or would it alter the pattern too much?

Yoke: I never understood that option. Does it have any functional value (water draining etc.) or is it pure aesthetics? Is the leather a double layer at the yoke area?

Lining: I would like to make this a “3 seasons jacket”, so ideally it should be comfortable for 5 to 15 degrees Celcius (41 to 59 Fahrenheit). What lining would you recommend for this? I learned in one post that lightweight tartan would suffice, but I wonder if alpaca or tweed would be better (a little warmer)


Sorry for that long list again, you always think you know what you want until you learn what else is out there.
I think my first mistake was to think about buying an Aero in the first place. Because what I also learned from this forum is you never going to buy just ONE Aero...:eusa_doh:
 
Last edited:

Sloan1874

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,427
Location
Glasgow
The second pic is pretty representative of the standard Aero brown: it starts off as a beautiful, rich chestnut and tends to get lighter as it wears.
 

zhz

Practically Family
Messages
890
Location
China, London and Coventry UK
The colour is due to lighting I believe. I think you'd better go to Aero website and check out the colour there. The inside pocket is a must have IMO.
For the rest, I think you'd better contact Aero first, as I've been told the only customisation they are going to do is the sleeve length and jacket length, so, my understanding is that you can not modify the cuff, pockets etc...
 

Rudie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,069
Location
Berlin
They still do some mods. :) They don't do leather strips at the hem. However, they will do a corduroy strip if you ask politely.

The Aero Royale has the kind of cuffs you want.
 

Grayland

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,104
Location
Upstate NY
I would pass on the alpaca lining. IMHO it is much too itchy. I'd prefer a wool tweed and wear an additional layer if I needed the warmth.

I like the look of breast pockets in that break things up a bit, but I never use them. I just find them awkward to actually use.

One inside pocket on the left (I'm right handed) is generally plenty to carry my stuff.

I know you specified FQHH, but the Aero goatskin is pretty spectacular stuff and comes in seal brown - which is the darker, deeper brown you want. In looking at Thurston Brothers ebay store, I found a jacket that is made of the goatskin and a Maxwell made of seal brown mid-weight hh.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aero-1930s-...63?pt=US_CSA_MC_Outerwear&hash=item27e4792463

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aero-Maxwel...98?pt=US_CSA_MC_Outerwear&hash=item27e4da199e
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia
I wouldn't overthink it. Apart from adjusting length leave it alone. Bog standard Drill cotton lining can't be beat.
 

ProteinNerd

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,902
Location
Sydney
The brown FQHH seems to be pretty consistent in my experience, I've got 2 jackets bout about 18 months apart and they are very very similar, I can't say identical because 1 obviously has a lot more wear which will change the colour slightly. I'm sure the differences in pictures is due to lighting, the "shininess" will dull pretty quickly with normal wear.
 

Sloan1874

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,427
Location
Glasgow
I wouldn't overthink it. Apart from adjusting length leave it alone. Bog standard Drill cotton lining can't be beat.

+1 though I'm a fan of the light tartan wool lining. It gives you a splash of colour that can finish off a jacket. Ettrick Forest or Weathered Grant are both nice and distinctive.
 

Fanch

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,490
Location
Texas
I wouldn't overthink it. Apart from adjusting length leave it alone. Bog standard Drill cotton lining can't be beat.

Seb, I'm with you on virtually every point unless Montecristo considers a moleskin body shell lining and cotton drill sleeve lining. IMO the plain Maxwell without breast pocket is close to perfection. The brown FQHH, as used on my Teamster, is incredible.
 

Dr.Seuss

One of the Regulars
Messages
113
Location
Denver
Montecristo:

The photograph is me.

I can assure you; the color you see, is the color it is. It is such a dark brown, initially, I (and my wife) felt it was almost black. I had hoped for a brown, much like the second photograph. However, over time, the jacket is forming slightly "lighter colored" areas in places of wear (such as the elbows, back of sleeves, and around the button holes and pockets).

For my second FQHH jacket (currently in production), I asked for the "lightest colored brown hide" Aero had in stock. (Perhaps you can never buy just one.)

I use the outside breast pocket, daily, for my sunglasses. I have yet to use the single interior pocket.

My Maxwell is long. My Maxwell sits at least two inches below the belt line. It visually fits my proportions far better than a shorter jacket.

The cotton drill lining seems durable and has already worked well in temperatures from 30 to 75 degrees.
 

Montecristo

New in Town
Messages
29
Again guys, thanks for the advice. Especially Dr.Seuss for more details on the jacket. @HoosierDaddy: thanks for the pictures this is a good reference. I would definitely like my jacket to be longer than that (I very rarely wear jeans and my pants are wider in general). I would like the jacket to cover half of the pockets of the pants in the front or half of the butt in the back.

Anyone has some info on the yoke? At the moment I am leaning towards plain back, but if a yoke has some functional benefit to it I might reconsider.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,116
Location
London, UK
Talk to Aero about this. I'm sure Holly is inundated as ever, but as a rule they do always come back to you within a few days. Regarding leather, ask for samples. As has been suggested, if colour is more important than that it be horsehide, you might find the seal goat a better option for you. I've also seem mid-weight horse that is brown but so dark it looks black in some lights (think like Steve Macqueen's Great Escape A2). Ask for samples and advice on how they will age. A long time ago, I followed Aero's advice on hide - I almost went with cherry fqhh for my Bootlegger, but was advised that, based on my description, when made up into a jacket rather than a small offcut it would look very light. I went with Cordovan as suggested, and the advice was spot on. Be open to other options - it might well be that there is a different Aero model that is closer to what you want as stock. Always less hassle that way. Take Aero's advice on the viability of modifications - they know their product and what works.

WRT the throat latch, I have one on my Bootlegger. It's very much like the one in your picture, and the button's thread does not show through; it's obviously been attached to the bottom layer of the collar before it is stitched to the top layer.
 

Montecristo

New in Town
Messages
29
Yes, you are right, in the end I have to speak to Aero. I just want to gather as much knowledge as possible before so I can describe precisely what I want.

Teamster would be right concerning length, maybe just a tad shorter. But I dont like the button type and the horizontal seam at the breast. Also, what I like most on the Maxwell is how the collar sits. I could be mistaken, but I have the impression that it sits a bit higher and more standing up than on the Teamster or Stuart.

Here is what I mean:

Collar "flat" and more lying down:


Collar more upright and "standing":
 

Sloan1874

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,427
Location
Glasgow
I'm sure removing the front yoke and ask about the buttons - generally, it's easier to remove or swap stuff than add/alter stuff.
 

Fanch

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,490
Location
Texas
I would like the jacket to cover half of the pockets of the pants in the front or half of the butt in the back.

Anyone has some info on the yoke? At the moment I am leaning towards plain back, but if a yoke has some functional benefit to it I might reconsider.

Given the body length that you desire, you might wish to go with a Teamster rather than a Maxwell. With the front dip present on the 30's style Maxwell, you could end up with too a jacket too long in the front if you are not careful, whereas the Teamster is slightly longer in the back than front. As a point of reference, I am almost 6'2" and have a Mulligan, which is smiliar to the Maxwell, with a 27" back. My Teamster has a 28.5" back. I definitely wouldn't want my Mulligan any longer.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,116
Location
London, UK
Yes, you are right, in the end I have to speak to Aero. I just want to gather as much knowledge as possible before so I can describe precisely what I want.

Teamster would be right concerning length, maybe just a tad shorter. But I dont like the button type and the horizontal seam at the breast. Also, what I like most on the Maxwell is how the collar sits. I could be mistaken, but I have the impression that it sits a bit higher and more standing up than on the Teamster or Stuart.

Here is what I mean:

Collar "flat" and more lying down:


Collar more upright and "standing":

Holly could tell you better, but I'm not sure there is a significant differnece between the two collars? Worth asking. To my eye it looks like they are the same pattern, in which case it's down to the individual hideas to how the collar behaves...
 

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