Making a suit

[Jingo Mastapone]

Raise your hand if you've done it. I found some amazing thick off-white wool at the fabric store last weekend that I knew would make a killer suit so I bought what was left. Just enough to squeeze a suit out, I hope.

I've never made a suit before. I know it will be a challenge. I'm planning to develop my pattern from well fitting jackets I already own but what I really need is information on all the innards. Canvas, horse hair, tape, all these things I've read about.

If I could find a pattern for an old style suit that described all the ingredients and steps I would buy it. I'm looking for any suggestions on that or on the process itself.

 

[Tomasso]

I'm looking for any suggestions on that or on the process itself.

This forum could be of some help. Good luck and please keep us informed of your progress. Maybe a photo essay.

Just enough to squeeze a suit out, I hope.

How much fabric do you have? I'm a 42L and I need around 4 yards for a two piece, .5 more for vest or double breasted.

 

[Nick D]

I'll raise my hand, though mine still needs sleeve lining and buttons. But I will say this, I've been sewing for years and making the jacket is without a doubt the hardest thing I've ever done. Even the women's suit jackets I've made for my wife were easy in comparison. There is nothing in sewing more difficult than a man's jacket.

The Cutter and Tailor that Tomasso linked to is a goldmine (you may have to register to see all the content, but it's worth it!). They have two apprentice forums, with a strict rule that beginners don't start with coats. In fact, they don't allow members to post about coats until they've demonstrated ability with trousers, etc.

I don't say this to put you off, but just so you know the difficulty. Vogue has a decent jacket pattern, though the lines are more modern. There's a vintage McCalls pattern for a blazer that could easily be converted to a suit jacket (I've got the fabric waiting in the wings for that one when the suit's done). I don't recall the number right now but I'll check this evening. If you don't have a tailor's ham, that should be the first thing you buy or make. Constant pressing, stretching, and shrinking is required in suit making.

 

[Jingo Mastapone]

Thanks for the input, guys, I'll definitely delve into that website. Tomasso, I have just less than four yards but it's a 68" bolt so I think I can get a size 42 reg out of it. Might have to stick to single breasted.

Nick D, I definitely register your message. I'm prepared for frustration and difficulty. I suppose it would be a good idea to make the pants first, for practice and confidence. Incidentally, I ran across a picture of you in the maroon gabardine 40's jacket you made from a pattern while I was searching for suit patterns and it looks great! You clearly have experience and ability.

I think I might photo document this process for the benefit of others. That should be entertaining...

 

[Honey Doll]

I might be too late to this party....but reprints of vintage men's trousers and jackets are available at Eva Dress.... here

http://www.evadress.com/mens.html

http://http://www.evadress.com/mens.html

The belt back pattern came from my collection!

HD

 

[Fifty150]

Quite ambitious.

I'm curious to see the steps in the process.