Looking at ordering an Aero leather jacket...assistance if you will

[KingCotton]

Hello to all, I started lurking here about 13 months ago and finally signed up today because there are questions I have regarding ordering a Jacket from Aero that need some direct answers I think and not just to be found by reading various posts relating tangentally to what I am considering as I have done for the past year.

I am looking at ordering a single(and yes it will be an only as I don't order multiple types of the same coat) high quality leather jacket from Aero through TB. I have a 15 year old Polo Pea Coat that was my first "nice coat" that I retired last year and replaced with a Todd Snyder Pea coat that I absolutely love. I also have a Schaeffer Legend fleece lined legend denim jacket that I wear regularly. I have a carharrt for working in and have a 15 year old polo wind breaker my wife gave me that I wear occassionally, however the peacoat and the schaeffer are my 2 primary jackets. Looking at adding the leather jacket as a third wear regularly casual jacket.

I have owned one leather jacket 26 years ago when I thought I got a deal on a pigskin jacket at Dillards that was on sale. I promptly hated it and sold it to someone else. It was extremely thin and the leather was very light weight and billowy almost like a ski jacket. I detested the thing...stupid impulse buy. It has more or less put me off leather jackets ever since, until when shopping for my new pea coat last year I stumbled upon your fine forum.

I do not want a slim or tight fitting jacket. The idea of heavy and thick leather certainly appeals to me, but I don't ride motorcyles or any kind so have no need for the protection aspect of a leather jacket. I want something comfortable and durable, either a brown or a tobacco in color.

I am 6'4" and weigh 255lbs at 44 years of age I have a belly but not huge. Wear a 46L sport coat and both the pea coat and the Schaeffer are XL in size. I live in North Texas along the Red River, so semi arid low humidity, winters typically stay north of 5 degrees farenheit but lots of wind.


The measurements below come from my Schaeffer Denim jacket as I think it is the closest to what I am looking for fit wise:
Shoulder 24 (certain I measured that wrong or differently then TB does).

P to p 25

Back 29

Sleeve 26 (shoulder to cuff)

Waist 23

I have placed an order with Thurston Bros for a try jacket Half Belt deluxe in Brown CXL FQHH, it is a size 42 that fits like a 46.
Jacket measurements:
Back length--26.5 inches
Sleeve length--26.5 inches
Pit-to-pit--25 inches
Shoulder--20 inches
Waist/bottom hem--23 inches

So I'll have an idea how they fit on me. Like I said I don't need a slim or tight fit, Relaxed or classic would be closer to what I am going for. I spoke with Carrie at TB and with my measurement she thinks the Deluxe HB is closer to what I am looking for then say a Highwayman.

I am very interested in seeing how this jacket fits for an idea on size, I suspect I may want the eventual jacket to be longer then it comes normally but we will see.

Questions/ideas/advice/help:

-First of all in ya'lls opinion is the DHB the right jacket to be looking at here design wise? I have played around on both TB and Aero website and this looks to me like what I am wanting but always open to suggestions.

- Leather type--I have been off and on researching posts on here about the leathers available and have gone back and forth depending I think on who's opinion I have read most recently about what leather to go with.---I don't want light weight or thin, though I am certain anything from Aero is thick and heavy enough to meet that criteria. I really like Badalassi, but the squeak is a concern as is the rubber suit reflective appearance in one of the videos I have seen on here. Also open to Chrom HH or SH depending on how the try on jacket fits, love the history of Horween and all that. Have read up on Premiere, but it seems like it is much more light weight and thinner but I may be wrong on that. If Chrom do people still suggest going with tumbled or let it age naturally?

-Alterations--other than length, I am considering the corduroy strip for longevity. Also thinking I may delete the snap pockets on the front and just go with the handwarmers. My peacoat has those same flap pockets and I never use them but who knows. May delete the chest pocket as well but not sure on that.

. Definitely going with a tartan lining...just have to figure out which one. The light blue colored one on the jacket from TB looks nice, but so does black watch and others.

Color will obviously depend on the leather, but leaning to tobacco or chestnut in badalassi and leaning brown, cordovan, or natural in CXL.

Zipper leaning towards heavy duty #10 YKK as several on here seem happy with it.

No zipper cuffs.

I'm sure there are things I am still not thinking about, but this post is long enough.

Will be deeply appreciative of any and all suggestions or help/advice that y'all can provide!

 

[MrProper]

I want something comfortable and durable,

But then I would think twice about CXFQHH. If so, then most likely as tumbled. I find CXSH or Vicenza so much more comfortable to wear. Badalassi is nice, but mine are both stiffer than my CXSH. And they squeak ;-)

it is a size 42 that fits like a 46

I once configured a jacket two sizes smaller. Although it was the right measurements, it wasn't as comfortable. This was because certain measurements still corresponded to the small size (neck hole, armhole etc.). But you'll see when you try it on.

Deluxe HB is closer to what I am looking for then say a Highwayman.

The classic highwayman has a boxy cut and can be great for someone who wants a more relaxed fit. Take a look at the HWM from @Mrfrown . A dream.

What Jacket Are You Wearing Today?

On the way back home. Foggy, very cold and rainy. Not enough layers. BBB/Y2 again.

www.thefedoralounge.com

Definitely going with a tartan lining

What do you hope to gain from this? If it's optics, ok. I don't necessarily find it warm.
My favourite lining with Aero is Moleskin and Sateen.

Zipper leaning towards heavy duty #10 YKK as several on here seem happy with it.

You won't get #10.
But you can also be happy with #5 if you choose the universal version under all circumstances.

 

[Cheech]

Listen to @MrProper. He has nailed numerous Aero orders.

 

[KingCotton]

But then I would think twice about CXFQHH. If so, then most likely as tumbled. I find CXSH or Vicenza so much more comfortable to wear. Badalassi is nice, but mine are both stiffer than my CXSH. And they squeak ;-)

I once configured a jacket two sizes smaller. Although it was the right measurements, it wasn't as comfortable. This was because certain measurements still corresponded to the small size (neck hole, armhole etc.). But you'll see when you try it on.

The classic highwayman has a boxy cut and can be great for someone who wants a more relaxed fit. Take a look at the HWM from Frown. A dream.

What do you hope to gain from this? If it's optics, ok. I don't necessarily find it warm.
My favourite lining with Aero is Moleskin and Sateen.

You won't get #10.
But you can also be happy with #5 if you choose the universal version under all circumstances.

I'll take that under advisement on the CXSH.

Yeah the Jacket is just a try on. I sent them the measurements and she said this one would work.

Will consider the HWYMAN, I liked the look of the HB and Carrie thought the deluxe would be closer to the length I wanted. I'll be honest the sheene also appealed to me, but I don't think I want that tight of a fit.

Yeah I just like the look of the tartan. We don't get crazy cold winters, typically stays 20s and above, and with the lack of humidity compared to growing up in Central Texas and the gulf coast, its nice.

I was just shooting number 10 as I had read on some random posts that people liked that zipper.

Thanks again for the feedback.

 

[Cortexas]

I have owned an Aero with CXL FQHH and vicenza. VIcenza is super comfortable and will mold to your body very quickly. It is lighter (1.2mm) vs FQHH (1.4mm) but still most people who hold my jacket say wow this is heavy! If you're going for comfort, I would think a midweight hide (VIcenza, Pinnacle, Goat, even Badalassi) would be the way to go. I've heard the CXL Steer softens up quite a bit but no personal experience with it. Most of what you're asking is purely based on opinion. You could ask 10 people in this group and get 11 different answers. I know there are mixed opinions on almost every leather selection Aero offers. I personally prefer a heavier weight hide and was concerned VIcenza may be too lightweight but I am very happy with the weight of my jacket. I also live in Texas and I can say the heavier leathers will shorten the wearing season a bit. As someone who wears a leather jacket every day I possibly can, a lighter hide is important to stretch that wearing season a few extra weeks each year.

I owned a highwayman and it was a much more relaxed fit and quite boxy. I think that could be a good option but Carrie at TB knows far more than I do.

Think about what features you like and used on your peacoat. Inside pockets, handwarmers, etc...

Some questions to consider:

Do you want to go through a several year long break in period or do you want something that molds to you and gets comfortable quickly? This will help determine your hide choice. Also, do you want something that will be a flatter color or something that will have more color depth ie pull up effect (CXL, Bainbridge)?

 

[Boyo]

fit is king.. all else pales in comparison to how the jacket fits you. nail that and all else is really secondary, all of Aero's leather choices are really nice.

 

[KingCotton]

I have owned an Aero with CXL FQHH and vicenza. VIcenza is super comfortable and will mold to your body very quickly. It is lighter (1.2mm) vs FQHH (1.4mm) but still most people who hold my jacket say wow this is heavy! If you're going for comfort, I would think a midweight hide (VIcenza, Pinnacle, Goat, even Badalassi) would be the way to go. I've heard the CXL Steer softens up quite a bit but no personal experience with it. Most of what you're asking is purely based on opinion. You could ask 10 people in this group and get 11 different answers. I know there are mixed opinions on almost every leather selection Aero offers. I personally prefer a heavier weight hide and was concerned VIcenza may be too lightweight but I am very happy with the weight of my jacket. I also live in Texas and I can say the heavier leathers will shorten the wearing season a bit. As someone who wears a leather jacket every day I possibly can, a lighter hide is important to stretch that wearing season a few extra weeks each year.

I owned a highwayman and it was a much more relaxed fit and quite boxy. I think that could be a good option but Carrie at TB knows far more than I do.

Think about what features you like and used on your peacoat. Inside pockets, handwarmers, etc...

Some questions to consider:

Do you want to go through a several year long break in period or do you want something that molds to you and gets comfortable quickly? This will help determine your hide choice. Also, do you want something that will be a flatter color or something that will have more color depth ie pull up effect (CXL, Bainbridge)?

Thanks for the repy. I certainly like depth, pull up I don't trully have strong feelings on either way.

 

[Guppy]

Hello to all, I started lurking here about 13 months ago and finally signed up today because there are questions I have regarding ordering a Jacket from Aero that need some direct answers I think and not just to be found by reading various posts relating tangentally to what I am considering as I have done for the past year.

I am looking at ordering a single(and yes it will be an only as I don't order multiple types of the same coat) high quality leather jacket from Aero through TB. I have a 15 year old Polo Pea Coat that was my first "nice coat" that I retired last year and replaced with a Todd Snyder Pea coat that I absolutely love. I also have a Schaeffer Legend fleece lined legend denim jacket that I wear regularly. I have a carharrt for working in and have a 15 year old polo wind breaker my wife gave me that I wear occassionally, however the peacoat and the schaeffer are my 2 primary jackets. Looking at adding the leather jacket as a third wear regularly casual jacket.

I have owned one leather jacket 26 years ago when I thought I got a deal on a pigskin jacket at Dillards that was on sale. I promptly hated it and sold it to someone else. It was extremely thin and the leather was very light weight and billowy almost like a ski jacket. I detested the thing...stupid impulse buy. It has more or less put me off leather jackets ever since, until when shopping for my new pea coat last year I stumbled upon your fine forum.

I do not want a slim or tight fitting jacket. The idea of heavy and thick leather certainly appeals to me, but I don't ride motorcyles or any kind so have no need for the protection aspect of a leather jacket. I want something comfortable and durable, either a brown or a tobacco in color.

I am 6'4" and weigh 255lbs at 44 years of age I have a belly but not huge. Wear a 46L sport coat and both the pea coat and the Schaeffer are XL in size. I live in North Texas along the Red River, so semi arid low humidity, winters typically stay north of 5 degrees farenheit but lots of wind.


The measurements below come from my Schaeffer Denim jacket as I think it is the closest to what I am looking for fit wise:
Shoulder 24 (certain I measured that wrong or differently then TB does).

P to p 25

Back 29

Sleeve 26 (shoulder to cuff)

Waist 23

I have placed an order with Thurston Bros for a try jacket Half Belt deluxe in Brown CXL FQHH, it is a size 42 that fits like a 46.
Jacket measurements:
Back length--26.5 inches
Sleeve length--26.5 inches
Pit-to-pit--25 inches
Shoulder--20 inches
Waist/bottom hem--23 inches

So I'll have an idea how they fit on me. Like I said I don't need a slim or tight fit, Relaxed or classic would be closer to what I am going for. I spoke with Carrie at TB and with my measurement she thinks the Deluxe HB is closer to what I am looking for then say a Highwayman.

I am very interested in seeing how this jacket fits for an idea on size, I suspect I may want the eventual jacket to be longer then it comes normally but we will see.

Questions/ideas/advice/help:

-First of all in ya'lls opinion is the DHB the right jacket to be looking at here design wise? I have played around on both TB and Aero website and this looks to me like what I am wanting but always open to suggestions.

- Leather type--I have been off and on researching posts on here about the leathers available and have gone back and forth depending I think on who's opinion I have read most recently about what leather to go with.---I don't want light weight or thin, though I am certain anything from Aero is thick and heavy enough to meet that criteria. I really like Badalassi, but the squeak is a concern as is the rubber suit reflective appearance in one of the videos I have seen on here. Also open to Chrom HH or SH depending on how the try on jacket fits, love the history of Horween and all that. Have read up on Premiere, but it seems like it is much more light weight and thinner but I may be wrong on that. If Chrom do people still suggest going with tumbled or let it age naturally?

-Alterations--other than length, I am considering the corduroy strip for longevity. Also thinking I may delete the snap pockets on the front and just go with the handwarmers. My peacoat has those same flap pockets and I never use them but who knows. May delete the chest pocket as well but not sure on that.

. Definitely going with a tartan lining...just have to figure out which one. The light blue colored one on the jacket from TB looks nice, but so does black watch and others.

Color will obviously depend on the leather, but leaning to tobacco or chestnut in badalassi and leaning brown, cordovan, or natural in CXL.

Zipper leaning towards heavy duty #10 YKK as several on here seem happy with it.

No zipper cuffs.

I'm sure there are things I am still not thinking about, but this post is long enough.

Will be deeply appreciative of any and all suggestions or help/advice that y'all can provide!

The Half Belt Deluxe is a great jacket.

Aero doesn't offer heavier zippers. They insist that the #5 zippers they use are correct, and the only options they offer are Talon, Universal, Waldes, and they are fine with lighter weight leathers but for their heaviest they are too weak, sez me. They also pipe the zipper so deeply inside the leather that when zipped together the leather on either side hides almost the entire zipper track, which means that finding the pin on the bottom when starting the zip is difficult. They are pretty adamant that these are not problems, but I find zipping Aero jackets to be a pain more often than not, and I wish they would listen to customers desires.

As for leather choices, CXL, Badalassi are my favorites, but I always consider Jerky too.

 

[KingCotton]

The Half Belt Deluxe is a great jacket.

Aero doesn't offer heavier zippers. They insist that the #5 zippers they use are correct, and the only options they offer are Talon, Universal, Waldes, and they are fine with lighter weight leathers but for their heaviest they are too weak, sez me. They also pipe the zipper so deeply inside the leather that when zipped together the leather on either side hides almost the entire zipper track, which means that finding the pin on the bottom when starting the zip is difficult. They are pretty adamant that these are not problems, but I find zipping Aero jackets to be a pain more often than not, and I wish they would listen to customers desires.

As for leather choices, CXL, Badalassi are my favorites, but I always consider Jerky too.

Thanks. Maybe it was people talking about replacing their zippers. I know TB has a gently used aero with a #10 currently for sale.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Re: #10 Zipper
I have seen Thurston put them on Aero jackets. USA Brass No.10 YKK will last you lifetime.

Re: Leather
For bigger dudes you don't have to worry about the initial stiffness of CXL, or heaviness. Just go with what leather finish you like best.

Highwayman vs Half Belt
Highwayman has cinch at the bottom, it can create an unflattering ( ) shape. Works better as a shorter jacket
Half Belt has cinch at the waist, it creates a flattering ) ( shape, works good in short jackets but even better in longer jackets.

Aero 50s patterns do not have front drop. You will need to add total length to get it long enough in the front. If you go through Thurston they should be able to coach you through this.

 

[Aloysius]

I have placed an order with Thurston Bros for a try jacket Half Belt deluxe in Brown CXL FQHH, it is a size 42 that fits like a 46.

I would take Thurston's "fits like" with a grain of salt. The owners favour a really tight fit and sometimes without even telling you will switch out your ordered jacket for a slimmer model.

Some outerwear is supposed to be big and drapey.

 

[AeroFan_07]

First off, @KingCotton welcome to FL - and we all hope you find this helpful.

I think you have given this very clear and thorough thought, which is good, instead of just asking "What do I buy...?" which really does not help nor give a basis of what you, as the purchaser, would like to have.

A couple more thoughts since there has already been a lot of other great input

- 100% best way to go if US-based and your first jacket, especially your first Aero, do it through Thurston's. Carrie knows what she is doing, and I have been measured out by her at their (prior) physical location. Just make sure to ask for a little "ease" or to be able to layer just a bit.
- Whatever lining you choose, I suggest getting the sateen in the sleeves, this make it much easier to put on/take off.
- Like others have said, #10 zips not an option out of Aero, but correct, Carrie has a few in "pre-loved" section of their website with new #10's installed.
- I owned for ~ 5 years a 30's HB in CX Steerhide, which also failed its zipper and I had a brass #10 installed. See below for full story on it.
- The Lightweight Wool Tartan linings are not any warmer than cotton drill, but they also look amazing and are smooth - not scratchy or itchy like a heavy wool.
- While I have not owned a Deluxe HB (longer style) I can see this being a practical and durable long-term jacket for extended usage.
- I believe "Tumbled Steerhide" in on option and this would be an easy wearing jacket right out of the box, since it appears you desire a heavier leather overall.

As to my own "30's Half Belt" - which the Classified ad and much more detail can be found here -
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/aero-30s-half-belt-black-steerhide-44.101136/

I sold this along for two primary reasons - First the collar on it was a rather large and flat collar. It was off-the-rack at their TB store when that still existed, so I took it as it was. Looking back had I ordered this myself I would have requested the slightly more shaped "Premier Highwayman" collar and no hidden throat latch (which is standard on 30's HB's). Also, no matter how much I wore it, it was never all that comfortable to me. The fit was good, it just never quite "worked." Had it been dark brown Steerhide, I likely would still have it.

 

[Jasonindenver]

Having done an Aero and a Thedi through Thurston, I would offer the following advice….

First, make sure that you do not have any areas of restriction or pulling on the test jacket. If so, size up or choose a different model. Previous posters are correct in that Carrie biases towards a perfect fit with the understanding that the jacket will mold to your body. While this did happen with my Aero To some degree, it is still not as comfortable as my Thedi was on day one.

Don't assume the tartan wool will add much warmth over cotton drill. If you want more versatility, make sure you have room to layer a sweater or vest rather than worry about an insulating lining.

for me, the lighter the leather the better as I really do t have the chance to wear it enough to develop the broken in look we all strive for. I really love my Vicenza Aero compared to Badalassi tester. The squeak was awful!

finally, I really dislike the single zipper that Aero insists upon. A double zipper is so much more useful to me especially when I am in a car and need to buckle up.

 

[TartuWolf]

Might need to pay extra but maybe TB would agree to switch the zipper once the jacket reaches them from Aero? Just change the #5 for a #10 straight up.

 

[MrProper]

Might need to pay extra but maybe TB would agree to switch the zipper once the jacket reaches them from Aero? Just change the #5 for a #10 straight up.

I would wait until the #5 breaks down. But why should it? If you use the universal, the chances are good that it will hold. All my universals work without any problems and don't seem too weak with CXSH. The Talon in my Vicenza is a disaster and is sure to be a goner soon.

It would be different if you wanted a two-way zip (of which I am a big fan)

 

[KingCotton]

Thanks for all the responses, truly appreciate the feedback.

I am pretty confident I will get the fit I want, even when I still had washboard abs and a 34 inch waist I didn't like super fitted jackets, I don't want it billowy and hanging off me, but I don't want it hugging me either.

Still going all over the place on the leather. Vincenza, badalassi, cxlsh seem to have the lead currently, but reading some nice things about premiere.... and who knows I may fall in love with the cxlhh leather on the fit jacket.

Color wise I'm settling in on a brown or tobacco color depending on the leather.

They should be shipping the fit jacket with samples out today so hopefully get it middle of next week.

 

[KingCotton]

Fit jacket arrived today.

I had to let out the side adjustments all the way to be able to zip it up and even then it is tighter then I like across my stomach. I can wear it, but its tight and certainly no room for a sweater or anything over my polo T-shirt.

i think i would like it to be a little longer in length in front and back. At the moment it doesn't quite reach my belt and I would like it to reach my pockets.

Sleeve length seems perfect. Sleeves feel a hair tight on arms when I bend them but not sure if that is just the leather.

Could be a tad bit looser across my back and shoulders.

It zipped up with the buckles out as far as they'd go without being completely undone. So there isn't any more letting out from this point.

It was a bit more work then I like getting my 2nd arm in the hole as well.

The leather is beautiful, Brown CXLFQHH. .... though at first I thought it was cordovan even though the add said brown.

The weight and thickness doesn’t bother me, though I have been advised that Steer fxl might be more comfortable.

I like the tartan liner, though I also like the black watch, still looking on the locharon website.

Sent the pics in to Thurston.

 

[AeroFan_07]

I agree too tight in the lower parts, a bit short and looks like it's fighting you here.

 

[Canuck Panda]

It's gonna be a tough choice between staying at this size and add length, or go up one size. Both has their pros and cons. I find that with these vintage styles, if I choose comfort and size up the look will always become boxy. And if I chose smaller size with add length the look would be better for photos but I will always complain about the comfort and wear them less.

If you do choose going up one size for comfort, it helps to get the jacket in leathers that drape much better than the stiffer ones, it will actually make the larger jacket look less boxy and look more fitted. It's a tough choice, been down this road many times my self.

 

[KingCotton]

It's gonna be a tough choice between staying at this size and add length, or go up one size. Both has their pros and cons. I find that with these vintage styles, if I choose comfort and size up the look will always become boxy. And if I chose smaller size with add length the look would be better for photos but I will always complain about the comfort and wear them less.
View attachment 663753

If you do choose going up one size for comfort, it helps to get the jacket in leathers that drape much better than the stiffer ones, it will actually make the larger jacket look less boxy and look more fitted. It's a tough choice, been down this road many times my self.

I have to go up a size. I feel a bit like a sausage currently when it is zipped...Could I wear it and see if it stretches? Sure, but I don't need a perfectly tailored fit.