London, Edinburgh, Paris - Recommendations Please

[Guttersnipe]

Hi Folks -- Mrs. Guttersnipe and I are traveling to the U.K. and France in October. Specifically we will be in London 6 days, Edinburgh 3 days, and Paris 5 days. Flights, accommodations and intercity train travel are all arranged, but other than that we have no concrete plans. I spent a month in London about 14 years ago, so am somewhat familiar with the city and its boroughs. However, other than drinking white cider and hanging out in Camden, I didn't do much site seeing...oh, to be 21 again.

The misses and I are more interested in off-the-beaten path, macabre and kitschy things than standard touristy attractions. So, what do folks recommend we do, see, eat and drink?

-Restaurants?
-Museums (art and history)?
-Cafes?
-Cocktail bars?
-Pubs?
-Vintage shops?
-Flea markets?
-Old churches/grave yards?
-Castles?
-Curry houses?

Also, any tips on the best/most economical way to purchase Tube/Metro fair would be appreciated as well. I should also note that neither of us speaks French.

Thanks,
The Guttersnipes

 

[AmateisGal]

I'm headed to England next month - will be my third trip.

Here's what's on my itinerary:
Imperial War Museum
Bletchley Park
Sherlock Holmes Museum
Victoria and Albert Museum
The Eye
Harrod's

 

[Sharpsburg]

In London you absolutely MUST add Churchill's War Rooms. Brilliant place -just like stepping back in time,

Harrod's not so much.

 

[EstherWeis]

Musee d'orsay in Paris.


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[Benproof]

In London:

-Restaurants?

..err...Chez Gerard is my fav lol. Not exactly English
The Lockhart does decent (american'ish food !): http://lockhartlondon.com/ which isn't too dear

Or if you like gastropub, just next door: http://www.theportmanmarylebone.com/

Best of British - I like Ffiona's in Kensington - true English food! http://www.ffionas.com/


-Museums (art and history)?

The British Museum (Bloomsbury); National History(Kensington), Portrait Gallery, National Gallery (Trafalgar Square) are all within 20 minutes of one another. The Tate Gallery & Tate Modern are the standard tourist ones. I like the Photographers Gallery (Piccadilly Circus).


-Cafes?

Cafe Boheme in Soho is very old and decent. Not too noisy or trashy: http://www.cafeboheme.co.uk/
Dover Street, Frith Street, and all the streets around Covent Garden have decent cafes.

http://www.theteahouseltd.com/ Do proper tea. The Telegraph printed the 10 best afternoon tea guides last month:

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/d.../9124793/Londons-ten-best-afternoon-teas.html



-Vintage shops?

I think everyone's mentioned these already. Proper ones don't exist in Camden

Beyond Retro: http://www.beyondretro.com/en/

I find it a bit trashy but that's just me. This is my and everyone's favourite: http://www.thevintageshowroom.com/blog/


-Flea markets?

Brick Lane has plenty studded down the sides of the streets. Weekends and Sunday they tend to get really busy.


-Old churches/grave yards?

Depends what you wish to see in old churches
Waltham Abbey, Minister, the tGreek Orthodox & Russian Orthodox in London are fascinating, as is the Regent Park mosque, and Westminster Cathedral. Forget St Paul's. It seems to be a regular protest site these days.

Graveyards - Hampstead cemetery is worth seeing. Not quite like Pere Le Chaise in Paris, but it's got a big buster of Marx.

-Castles
In London? I err..didn't know we had any. Hever Castle; Chiddingstone Castle are close by, but require a car. Plenty down south and up north. Plenty of ruins too...train maybe?

-Curry houses?

Sorry - I don't eat curry

 

[galopede]

If you want castles you need to go to Wales! Loads of castles there where the Normans tried to keep us Welsh in check!

Gareth

 

[AmateisGal]

In London you absolutely MUST add Churchill's War Rooms. Brilliant place -just like stepping back in time,

Harrod's not so much.

OH yes! How could I forget Churchill's War Rooms? Will definitely try to make it there, too.

 

[GHT]

Well, as you are planning to spend three days in Edinburgh, you really must visit Edinburgh Castle, you won't be disappointed. Just below the castle is The Royal Mile, not to be missed. The link will also take you pubs, clubs, tours & travel. If you can fit it into your plans, do try and get yourselves across to see: Glasgow.
Most cities in our country have open top tour buses, these are a great help in showing you the more famous landmarks. In London, you can hop off, hop on wherever you like. So if The Tower of London, (did someone say there were no castles in London?) takes your fancy, you can hop off, visit and hop back on.
Or, take a complete tour and note the sights you wish to visit later. Getting about couldn't be easier, you need to buy yourself The Visitor Oyster Card. A few helpful hints: The card can be bought before you leave home, saving you a dollar conversion rate. The card cannot be used on the sightseeing buses, these buses are usually run by coach companies. The card will save you enormous amounts of queuing time. The card is valid on all systems of London Transport. You cannot pay the (bus) driver, you need to pre-pay at machines, but your oyster card negates all that. Where to go and what to see? Part of the fun is finding out, but if you want to step into London's version of The Golden Era, check out what's on at: The Rivoli Ballroom. Don't be put off by the scruffy entrance.
Whilst The London Eye is a magnet for tourists, to see almost as much, and for far less money, try climbing the 311 steps to the top of The Monument. The link gives you all the facts.
For shopping, leave Harrods to less well informed, you get yourself off to Leadenhall Market. And finally here's a link to: Visit London. It will feed your curiosity.
On Paris, I lived there for a while, as a teenager in the 60's. Worked in a bar, there to perfect my spoken French. In 50 years, I've never been back, so I suggest that you look up similar websites to those of Edinburgh & London, but there is one site you must visit: Versailles Palace, with it's world famous hall of mirrors. Have fun, bonnes voyages!

 

[pawineguy]

I am a convert to the Seine dinner cruises. See the lights of Paris while eating a solid French meal, usually with a band or DJ also. Ask for help at your hotel to book, they tend to leave from around the Eiffel tower and turn back around after you go by Notre Dame. Great way to see the city at night and while it sounds very "touristy", there are plenty of locals on board.

Agree with not missing Versailles, easy train ride from Paris. Get a recommendation on a jazz club, spend a couple of hours listening to a local band playing old school American jazz while drinking a cocktail, then have a street crepe on your way back to your hotel. Speaking of crepes, find a creperie (I wish I could remember the last one I ate at in Paris) and enjoy some Normandy cider with a few savory crepes followed by a sweet one for dessert.

I'll add some things to the list as they come to mind, I am heading over for a similar trip in June/July. 6 days in London followed by 5 in Paris.

 

[MikeKardec]

Others have covered some really great attractions but I might have something to add: In Edinburgh, book a tour through Mary King's Close. The "closes" were closed off (for security) neighborhoods that stretched up and down the hillsides on either side of The Royal Mile (or High Street). In the 18th or 19th Century there was some significant redevelopment and the big ministries and exchanges moved in, lopped off the tops off of the old closes and built their grand buildings at the level of 'the mile.' What is left of these ancient neighborhoods are now the basements of these later buildings. Because the outside walls were bricked up the experience is that of wandering around through abandoned underground towns. Some of the tour guides are wonderfully trained to improvise the entire tour as the "ghost" of an actual denizen. Not to be missed. The town itself is wonderfully photogenic, lots of different levels, great depth. If I remember correctly there is a Camera Obscura up near the castle.

When going to Paris one must read several Alan Furst novels ... he'll put you right in the zone, the eve of WWII, amateur spies, femme fatales, etc. The man can do more with a six word sentence than nearly anyone. Ambiance galore.

 

[Guttersnipe]

Thanks for all the recommendations, folks! There are definitely some places/things here that didn't occur to me,

When going to Paris one must read several Alan Furst novels ... he'll put you right in the zone, the eve of WWII, amateur spies, femme fatales, etc. The man can do more with a six word sentence than nearly anyone. Ambiance galore.

I'm way ahead of you on this one, MikeKardec; I've read all of Furst's novels. One place we are going to dinner is Bistro Bofinger, the real life inspireation for Paris' most infamous den of spies, the Brasserie Heininger!

 

[MikeKardec]

Cool. The catacomb tour is also pretty good ... more interesting when you realize that what you are allowed to go through is just one small part of the entire system. Parts of modern Paris are built on the ruins of a series of old roman rock quarries (used to build the original city), those quarries were not all filled in, many were roofed over or used as basements or areas for underground infrastructure. Under Paris there is a warren of caves and tunnels that are off limits because, if open, they'd be impossible to police. I expect there are some "urban explorer" you tube videos but I've never bothered looking for them.

Friends tell me that Air B&B can often beat hotel rates by quite a bit and supply significantly better accommodations but read the reviews/descriptions carefully to see what you are getting into.

Another great book is "Is Paris Burning," the story of the last days of Nazi occupation and the plot to destroy the city that turned into a plot to save the city. Some unbelievable events took place and are wonderfully told, like the woman who took her children to see the mysterious commander of the Free French forces enter the city at the head of his armored column only to discover it was her long lost husband and the story of the woman how chased a Nazi prisoner train clear across France on her bike in order to free her boyfriend (hopefully I remember that correctly) ... anyway, great book!

 

[Harp]

I'm headed to England next month - will be my third trip.

Here's what's on my itinerary:
Imperial War Museum
Bletchley Park
Sherlock Holmes Museum
Victoria and Albert Museum
The Eye
Harrod's

Not visiting Foyles book shop?

 

[AmateisGal]

Not visiting Foyles book shop?

I might!

 

[GHT]

What about The Benjamin Franklin house?

 

[Harp]

I might!

About Bletchley Park, have you read Andrew Hodges' Alan Turing: The Enigma?

 

[kyboots]

I also agree Musee d'Orsay is an absolute while in Paris. Skip that other museum and go here.

 

[belfastboy]

My fave bistro in Paris is Café Melac in the Bastille neighbourhood. In the family since the mid 30's. Good country cooking in a funky, unpretentious setting. Great wine list from the Minervois. A little off the beaten track but in my view a gem.

 

[AmateisGal]

About Bletchley Park, have you read Andrew Hodges' Alan Turing: The Enigma?

No, I haven't. My TBR list is sooo long that I can't even keep up.

 

[de Stokesay]

Although I haven't been there myself, pretty much everyone else in my family's been to eat at Le Soufle in Paris. I'm told that it's absolutely to die for.

If you're looking for vintage shops in Edinborough, there were three really good ones (or there were in June of 2011 anyway) at the east end of the Grass Market, which is just south of the royal mile. An easy five minute walk from the royal mile. Getting back up again is a bit more effort though - it's a steep hill to climb from the side!

Have fun.

de Stokesay