Lewis Leathers / LL Cowhide

[Superfluous]

I am contemplating a Lewis Leathers jacket in cowhide (sans chest patch). I do not have any experience with the brand. For those with real world LL experience:

1. How is the quality of the workmanship (e.g., stitching and seams)?

2. How does the workmanship compare to: (1) Aero; (2) RMC; (3) LW; and/or (4) Thedi?

3. How does the LL cowhide compare to other leathers in terms of weight and pliability? How does the LL cowhide compare to Vicenza, Shinki, and/or Horween FQHH?

Thanks in advance.

 

[handymike]

Get yourself over to Stronghold on Abbot Kinney!
Try on the jackets and look at the swatchbook!!!!
Do this before continuing down this path!!!!!!

 

[Mich486]

Quality of construction imho is comparable to Aero.

As discussed on the other thread I too recommend their sheepskin, after all that’s their trademark hide. The vegetable tanned cowhide sure looks good though. The horse they have I can tell you first hand isn’t something particularly remarkable and if you are used to shinki you’ll be disappointed.

 

[Carlos840]

Superfluous, I have never felt more prepared to answer your questions, i wish my years at school had been that easy...

I own two LL one in horse one in cow, my GF has a cow Super Monza and she loves it.

1: Quality is very good to excellent. Both of my Lewis are stitch perfect. My GF's one had a problem with a seam that came loose but they fixed the issue.
They have a different stitch style than a Himel, FW or RMC which offer a very tight stitching, LL is not as tight, but the precision and attention to detail is just as good as a high end Japanese made jacket.

2: IMO the workmanship is very good. I think the 4 brands you mention have very different styles and ways of doing things, but they are all on a similar level of craftsmanship.
There is clearly less finesse in an Aero than in a RMC, but i wouldn't say that makes it less well made, it's just not as fancy.
Lewis has very good attention to detail, everything is nice and neat, there are no noticeable flaws on any of mine.

(On a side note here, i would say that out of the 4 brands you mentioned IMO lost worlds makes the best patterns, all jackets look good on a hanger, they don't all feel as comfortable when worn, even in the right size.
IMO out of all the jackets i own Himel, LW, Langlitz and Lewis are the best/most comfortable patterns to wear.)

3: The cowhide is hit or miss, there is quite a bit of variation from jacket to jacket, some like mine stays smooth forever, some like my GF's can get creased up after some wear, but whatever you get don't expect amazing character. Lewis leather is very much smooth shiny black leather and it has a tendency to stay that way.
IMO the regular hides are Lewis's weakest point, they are just not that exciting compared to what other makers have.
Like i said in another thread, their best hide is the Veg Tan cowhide, it is glorious, £400 upcharge but IMO absolutely worth it.

Weight wise, they are some of the lightest/softest jackets i own, they are really nice and soft, very easy to wear:

Lewis Leathers 551 (Cow): 1.94 kg / 4.25 lb
Lewis Leathers Universal Racer Mk2 (Horse): 2,03kg / 4.47Lb

Here are a couple jackets to help compare:

ELMC Californian: 1.53 kg / 3.37 lb
DC J-100: 1.80 kg / 3.98 lb
Himel Chevalier (shinki): 2.23 kg / 4.93 lbs
Aero Bootlegger CXLFQHH(brown): 2.31 kg / 5.09 lb
Aero Bootlegger CXLFQHH(black): 2.55 kg / 5.63 lb
Freewheelers La Brea(shinki): 2.61 kg / 5.76 lb
Lost Worlds J-23: 2.98kg / 6.57lb

In short, i would say Lewis has great patterns, great designs, great execution, what lets them down is their regular cowhide and horsehide, IMO either go veg tan cow or sheepskin.

Here is the full "New Lewis experience for you":

 

[Carlos840]

And these i took yesterday for Monitor, horse hide on the left, cow hide on the right.
The horsehide one i bought used and it was the only leather jacket the previous owner had, it is pretty heavily worn, shows zipper wear, scuffs on wrists elbows etc, but still looks super smooth and shiny.
The cowhide one was my second leather jacket, bought in 2013, been worn on and off the bike a lot and is also still brand new looking.

 

[red devil]

I am contemplating a Lewis Leathers jacket in cowhide (sans chest patch). I do not have any experience with the brand. For those with real world LL experience:

1. How is the quality of the workmanship (e.g., stitching and seams)?

2. How does the workmanship compare to: (1) Aero; (2) RMC; (3) LW; and/or (4) Thedi?

3. How does the LL cowhide compare to other leathers in terms of weight and pliability? How does the LL cowhide compare to Vicenza, Shinki, and/or Horween FQHH?

Thanks in advance.

Difficult to add anything more to what @Carlos840 said, so maybe best to ask you what you are looking for? Is there a specific model you have in mind?

 

[Monitor]

I can maybe help, too.

I have seen a few LL jackets and while most were what I'd call a top shelf jackets, one in particular was probably among the top three highest quality jackets that I have ever seen, let alone handled.

It was a ladies Dominator that I bought because the seller listed it incorrectly (if not deliberately, though I should've known better) and thus I had to return the jacket. Regardless, no regrets whatsoever because it made me respect LL even more.

I don't know what kind of a cowhide this jacket's made of but I never saw this type of leather that compares in quality. Seemingly no overcoat, super soft despite the thickness, silky texture... Just the best leather I've handled. Similar to pro race suit leather, just much more... Luxurious.
Problem is, I don't know what it is. Maybe it's the veg tanned stuff they up-charge for? But it wasn't like any other Lewis Leathers that I have seen. No way, not even close.

The entire jacket was just out of this world, how nice it was. Even the lining was something else. Wasn't nylon but cotton - think Aero's cotton drill, only lighter, with backed interior. Clix hardware doesn't need any additional praise, too. Among my fav zippers.

Back to leather, note how perfectly flawless every single panel is and how nicely they've matched it all. There wasn't any variation on leather thickness throughout the jacket, too. Everything was perfect!

Anyway, to try to answer your questions...

1. Take a look at the photos I've uploaded. I'd say this is literally as perfect as it goes but you be the judge.
This of course doesn't mean much because none of the other jackets were of this construction so... Ideally, this is what you can expect and yeah, what @Carlos840 a good Lewis Leathers is on the level of the finest Japanese makers out there.
Check out the workmanship on the waist straps.

2. Generally speaking, though, I'd compare LL workmanship to a good Aero. Step below RMC and LW, better than Schott, Vanson, etc. - and that's just in my experience.
This Dominator though, again, I'd place it at the very top of the list. Any list.

3. Aside from what I said above, LL's cowhide is lighter than CXL and more pliable. It has less overcoat than Lost Worlds or Vicenza and will not fade.
But you know, to be fair, comparing it to the makers you've listed isn't really possible at all since LL's hide is very typical of a European leather intended for motorcycle gear and thus very, very different. I know it won't mean much to you but honestly, a fair comparison would be to Dainese, good Hein Gericke, Mascot, etc.

It's just a fundamentally different hide than CXL or Vic or Shinki - but - very similar to the stuff comparable makers of the era used. This is a true, hard wearing, utilitarian hide, even though it's not extremely heavy or stiff. You'd get a better idea if you go to any motorcycle equipment shop and look at the high end racing suits.

But! To cut this short, if you can get your hands on the stuff my Lewis Leathers Dominator was made in, you won't find a better leather in the world, I can absolutely guarantee this. It's substantial without being heavy, it's soft, drapes perfectly and feels completely natural. You know I'm all about heavy leather but if I could have all my jackets in this, it'd be no contest.

Click on any of the pics for a higher res preview.

 

[Fanch]

I think it was about five years ago I was in London for three or four days prior to departing for a HA cruise. While I was in London I jumped on a train while my wife and daughter were shopping elsewhere and think it was the Goodge Street Station from the London Tube that I exited and walked to the Lewis Leathers store.

The LL jackets that most piqued my interest were the Corsair and Dominator but favored the Corsair since the handwarmer pockets seemed to have the best angle at least for me. As nice as the cowhide was, I think I preferred their horsehide. Their red quilted lining seemed to be their signature lining, although I was told I could choose a non-quilted lining and recall favoring their olive cotton lining.

Although my Aero size is 42 for 1930's halfbelt and probably size 40 for 1950's half belt and Highwayman, the LL Dominator and Corsair, both essentially the same pattern, seemed to fit small and found I would require a size 44 for either of those two LL models. I have a somewhat short torso for my 6'2" and wouldn't have needed anything added to the back length but would have needed 2" added to the sleeve length for my long arms.

Rather than order at the LL store at the time, I left for my cruise but never got around to ordering a LL Corsair. However, I was extremely impressed with the LL product and still am.

As a side note I was told that the LL patch over the left chest pocket not being sewn on was not negotiable. Whether that is still the case or not, I'm unaware. Anyhow @Superfluous I hope my input might be of some help.

 

[Carlos840]

I can maybe help, too.

I have seen a few LL jackets and while most were what I'd call a top shelf jackets, one in particular was probably among the top three highest quality jackets that I have ever seen, let alone handled.

It was a ladies Dominator that I bought because the seller listed it incorrectly (if not deliberately, though I should've known better) and thus I had to return the jacket. Regardless, no regrets whatsoever because it made me respect LL even more.

I don't know what kind of a cowhide this jacket's made of but I never saw this type of leather that compares in quality. Seemingly no overcoat, super soft despite the thickness, silky texture... Just the best leather I've handled. Similar to pro race suit leather, just much more... Luxurious.
Problem is, I don't know what it is. Maybe it's the veg tanned stuff they up-charge for? But it wasn't like any other Lewis Leathers that I have seen. No way, not even close.

The entire jacket was just out of this world, how nice it was. Even the lining was something else. Wasn't nylon but cotton - think Aero's cotton drill, only lighter, with backed interior. Clix hardware doesn't need any additional praise, too. Among my fav zippers.

Back to leather, note how perfectly flawless every single panel is and how nicely they've matched it all. There wasn't any variation on leather thickness throughout the jacket, too. Everything was perfect!

Anyway, to try to answer your questions...

1. Take a look at the photos I've uploaded. I'd say this is literally as perfect as it goes but you be the judge.
This of course doesn't mean much because none of the other jackets were of this construction so... Ideally, this is what you can expect and yeah, what @Carlos840 a good Lewis Leathers is on the level of the finest Japanese makers out there.
Check out the workmanship on the waist straps.

2. Generally speaking, though, I'd compare LL workmanship to a good Aero. Step below RMC and LW, better than Schott, Vanson, etc. - and that's just in my experience.
This Dominator though, again, I'd place it at the very top of the list. Any list.

3. Aside from what I said above, LL's cowhide is lighter than CXL and more pliable. It has less overcoat than Lost Worlds or Vicenza and will not fade.
But you know, to be fair, comparing it to the makers you've listed isn't really possible at all since LL's hide is very typical of a European leather intended for motorcycle gear and thus very, very different. I know it won't mean much to you but honestly, a fair comparison would be to Dainese, good Hein Gericke, Mascot, etc.

It's just a fundamentally different hide than CXL or Vic or Shinki - but - very similar to the stuff comparable makers of the era used. This is a true, hard wearing, utilitarian hide, even though it's not extremely heavy or stiff. You'd get a better idea if you go to any motorcycle equipment shop and look at the high end racing suits.

But! To cut this short, if you can get your hands on the stuff my Lewis Leathers Dominator was made in, you won't find a better leather in the world, I can absolutely guarantee this. It's substantial without being heavy, it's soft, drapes perfectly and feels completely natural. You know I'm all about heavy leather but if I could have all my jackets in this, it'd be no contest.

Click on any of the pics for a higher res preview.

That's the regular cow IMO, the veg tan one is teacore.
Great looking jacket, a way to identify it as a women's jacket, which i had not noticed until seeing both yours and my GF's above is that the label is on the right hand side of the chest, on men's jackets its on the left side.
I didn't see that when we discussed that jackets when you originally bought it.

I'll post a comparison pic between shinki, cxl, vicenza and Lewis tomorrow.

 

[Tom71]

I do come in late, so this will be merely a repetition of the valid statements of Monitor and Carlos.

I don’t find anything to complain about construction/overall quality in LL, but then I am not a „stitch-counter“ to begin with.
With your collection of jackets, there is a risk that you will find the leather uninspiring and underwhelming. The veg-tan cow may be the solution, but I don’t think it’s been around long enough for anybody to have it seen aging yet.

Personally, I do believe that a LL straight-zip would just go PERFECT with your new Honda, but I have to say I never imagined you wearing anything sporting a logo at all. Really interested to see this develop.

 

[red devil]

The logo isn't compulsory any more, that rule was implemented for a while then abandoned

 

[Carlos840]

Here is a picture i just took , i tried to use leathers i thought you could relate to:

From left to right: Lewis Cow, Shinki Horse (DD), Shinki Horse (Himel), CXL HH, Vicenza HH, ELMC HH.

I know it's hard to believe but the Lewis is actually the most worn jacket of the 6, it was worn on and off the bike, iwas caught in storms with it, it has at least 10 times more wear than the DD for example.

 

[Monitor]

That's the regular cow IMO, the veg tan one is teacore.
Great looking jacket, a way to identify it as a women's jacket, which i had not noticed until seeing both yours and my GF's above is that the label is on the right hand side of the chest, on men's jackets its on the left side.
I didn't see that when we discussed that jackets when you originally bought it.

I'll post a comparison pic between shinki, cxl, vicenza and Lewis tomorrow.

Aye, learned that after I bought this jacket. It makes sense they'd do it like that but then I read a lot of posts (by people who must've bought a ladies jacket and couldn't accept it) about how LL used switch the logo around and that the only sure indicator are the darts. Which is nonsense of course. I asked LL about it and yeah, if the logo is on the right side of the jacket, it's a ladies jacket.

Regarding darts, I have also learned then that LL doesn't add them by default which is why you won't see them on approx. half of women's jackets out there. The pattern is already made to be as accommodating as possible so the darts will only be added if needed. In short, the lack of darts doesn't mean a thing.

 

[Superfluous]

Thank you everyone for your sage advice. I am inclined to pass on the LL jacket.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I'm not crazy about the Lewis patterns but the cowhide looks great and reminds me of solid vintage leather before the obsession with wrinkly, grainy character took over.

 

[Monitor]

I'm not crazy about the Lewis patterns but the cowhide looks great and reminds me of solid vintage leather before the obsession with wrinkly, grainy character took over.

That's what it is. How come you don't like the patterns? I'm pretty sure nobody on the market makes a better fitting jackets than LL.

 

[Seb Lucas]

That's what it is. How come you don't like the patterns? I'm pretty sure nobody on the market makes a better fitting jackets than LL.

They've just never excited me the way some other jackets have. It's simple subjective attraction. I could perhaps get to like the Dominator (I like chest pockets) but I would want it to wear it slightly loose.

 

[handymike]

I found 1 size up to be a great casual fit on the Dominator.

 

[Carlos840]

They've just never excited me the way some other jackets have. It's simple subjective attraction. I could perhaps get to like the Dominator (I like chest pockets) but I would want it to wear it slightly loose.

I think that when Monitor uses the word "pattern" he means 'how a jacket fits, how it is designed to work with the body" not what it looks like from a design point of view.

 

[Monitor]

I think that when Monitor uses the word "pattern" he means 'how a jacket fits, how it is designed to work with the body" not what it looks like from a design point of view.

Yah, that. Maybe I'm using the term wrong but y'know pattern, like how it's cut and then I automatically assume how it fits. and LL's fit well. Carlos will testify to that, I'd wager.