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Levi's Jackets...

Biltmore Bob

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Spring, Texas... Y'all...
I'm looking at some "vintage" Levi's jackets on the Bay right now.

When did Levi's introduce the handwarmer pockets to their jackets? I had a couple Levi's jackets while growing up and don't recall them having handwarmer pockets. What I'm trying to get is a hard blue jacket in 46-48 regular.
 

shamus

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If you going to the effort to get a levi type III jacket without handwamers then go all out and get a Big E version. It jacks the price up a tad if the seller knows what they have, but worth it. But Big E's in that size don't come around very often.
 

Biltmore Bob

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Big E...

I heard that alot recently...not real sure what it means...Big E as in L-E-VI'S as opposed to L-e-vi's (small E)?

I'm still not at the point in my life where I'm willing to spend $100 for a denim jacket yet. Y'all know about denim better than I do, though. I'm afraid to admit it, but I'm starting to get more interested.

Now, what's Selvedge and Red Line, Green Line...blah blah blah...?
 

airfrogusmc

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Big E in the little red tag means it was made before (1982 I think); on smaller looms. The older denim has a distinctive red line (or green line 1920s 201s) and wears much different than modern denim. Levis Vintage Clothing uses denim made like the selvage denim before 82. 20s 201s has uses a green line denim the has a very distinctive look.

Heres a shot of red line denim. Notice the dotted red line.

1937201onerinseredline.jpg
 

shamus

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The Big E was actually discontinued in 1971 or 72 I can't remember. The selevge was discontinued in 1982 on the 501's.
 

SHARPETOYS

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Titusville, Florida
Busted!

Biltmore Bob said:
I heard that alot recently...not real sure what it means...Big E as in L-E-VI'S as opposed to L-e-vi's (small E)?

I'm still not at the point in my life where I'm willing to spend $100 for a denim jacket yet. Y'all know about denim better than I do, though. I'm afraid to admit it, but I'm starting to get more interested.

Now, what's Selvedge and Red Line, Green Line...blah blah blah...?

If you do I'm going to tell your wife!! ;) ;) ;)
 

airfrogusmc

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Shamus yes you are right early 70s the red tab changed to a e and early 80s is when the denim changed. I think it was 1936 when the red tag big E first showed up.
Bob also the weight of denim changed over the years. The 33 501s had 10 oz red line and the 37 had 12.5 oz red line. Also I think 36 was the first year with out the suspender buttons.
 
I got a Levis jacket from a shop in aberdeen not too many years ago that claimed to have been made on the the old looms. Does anyone know if this is an accurate claim, or is it just marketing BS?

And it has the red line thing at the inner seam. I haven't worn it for a while, i'll need to dig it out again. If i remember rightly, it was a much stiffer denim than the standard these days. And it wasn't preshrunk. I had blue dye all over myself having been advised to get in the shower while wearing it and allowing it to shrink onto my body. Oh, yeah, and it had a back buckle, and at least 2 pleats on the front. I should wear it more.

bk
 

jake431

Practically Family
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Chicago, IL
Baron Kurtz said:
I got a Levis jacket from a shop in aberdeen not too many years ago that claimed to have been made on the the old looms. Does anyone know if this is an accurate claim, or is it just marketing BS?

And it has the red line thing at the inner seam. I haven't worn it for a while, i'll need to dig it out again. If i remember rightly, it was a much stiffer denim than the standard these days. And it wasn't preshrunk. I had blue dye all over myself having been advised to get in the shower while wearing it and allowing it to shrink onto my body. Oh, yeah, and it had a back buckle, and at least 2 pleats on the front. I should wear it more.

bk

Aberdeen made the first Levi's denim (though I believe it was a green line selvage and more green/blue cast to their indigo), but the switch to Cone mills was pretty early in the 20th Century. The jacket you describe sounds like a Type 1. The pleats and the buckle back are the hallmarks of that design. Are there rivets at any of the stress points?

-Jake
 
jake431 said:
Aberdeen made the first Levi's denim (though I believe it was a green line selvage and more green/blue cast to their indigo), but the switch to Cone mills was pretty early in the 20th Century. The jacket you describe sounds like a Type 1. The pleats and the buckle back are the hallmarks of that design. Are there rivets at any of the stress points?

-Jake

Aberdeen, Scotland?? This was a new jacket. A repro. Not an original. Did they make repros on the old looms? Or was that just marketing speak?

rivets at the stress points? Don't know, but there are certainly rivets on the jacket. Can't remember where, though. Will check when i get home this evening.

bk
 

jake431

Practically Family
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Baron Kurtz said:
Aberdeen, Scotland?? This was a new jacket. A repro. Not an original. Did they make repros on the old looms? Or was that just marketing speak?

rivets at the stress points? Don't know, but there are certainly rivets on the jacket. Can't remember where, though. Will check when i get home this evening.

bk

My bad. Yes they did make repros on the old looms. IT is then definitely a Type I Levis jacket. And they are certainly very awesome.

-Jake
 

Biltmore Bob

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Ok...

Handwarmer pockets came out in the 70s and 80s, and the denim was still good qauality and made in the USA, right. All Levi's products are imported from various and sundry other than US makers, correct? New denim is not as good as pre 70's early 80's denim, no? If I find any Levi's product featuring Red/Green Line features, expect to pay a premium, yes?

This is what I want...unwashed hard rigid blue jean pants/ jacket combination...Levi's are fine at this point, but I prefer the type I wore in the 70s, as opposed to the ones that the market now.

I will even consider Lee or Wrangler. Wrangler would probable be easiest as they still offer their US made jeans and their equivalent of the Levi's Trucker Jacket, I can get that at the local Western Wear store. I havn't worn Lee's in over a decade so I don't know what their quality is these days.
 

shamus

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As the jackets go, Lee's fit totally different than a Levi's. Wranger is kind of between the two. If you have broad shoulders Lee's dont' seem to fit right.

As with jeans or at least they use to be, wrangers are tighter and lees seem to ride "high" if you know what I mean.

But I haven't worn either since the 80's.
 

Biltmore Bob

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I wore all three brands growing up....

I hav a couple pair of Wrangler Cowboy Cuts right now, they are a little tighter, but they stay up and fit over boots with a straight leg. I had a Wrangler jacket once to it was a little on the fitted side if I remember correctly, and had snaps at the cuffs. The problem that I am having is matching material and fades. I have a Levi's Signature Denim Jacket my wife got at Wally's and it dosen't match anything. I think the Wranglers rigids will match and I can wash them together to get the fade right.
 

airfrogusmc

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Bob a couple of years ago the trucker that you are talking about was produced by LVC UNWASHED Red Line and it had a leather tag as do most of their vintage jean repros. Yes if you find a pair of red or green line levis repro or original you will pay especially if they're original. And if you get a repro pair of red or green line Vintage Levis Clothing jeans or jacket they were made from the same denim from the same plant the originals were. Also if you have a pair with the #s 555 on either the tag inside the leg or the back of the top fly button they were made at the original factory in San Francisco (Valencia St.) That factory closed a few years ago. I saw an original pair of 1937 501s sell on ebay for over a grand.
 

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