Leather jackets in Portland?

[kyngfish]

Hey all. Looking to invest in a nice leather jacket. But I ALWAYS have issues with fit. My shoulders are 17 across and my chest is 40. Around the shoulders is something like 47. My waist measures 35 but my Jean size is 31-32 depending on manufacturer. But where a lot of people have sort of sloping shoulders mine sort of cut straight across. Usually if something fits me in the chest and shoulders I’m swimming in it. Last time I ordered a 40 jacket it was huge.

Was wondering if anyone knows of any place in Portland oregon that sells quality leather jackets. Seems like everything is in LA.

 

[Guppy]

Langlitz.

 

[kyngfish]

Langlitz.

You’re a hero dude. I’ll definitely check them out. I’m looking for something like aero leathers’ 30s half belt. So if you think of anywhere else let me know!

 

[Guppy]

You’re a hero dude. I’ll definitely check them out. I’m looking for something like aero leathers’ 30s half belt. So if you think of anywhere else let me know!

Langlitz doesn't have a style like that, but it's possible they could do something for you fully custom, but it'd be very expensive and a long wait. But definitely worth visiting with them and consulting in any case.

 

[El Marro]

Langlitz would be my first stop Since you are in Portland already.
If you feel like a road trip then drive up to Seattle and check out Thurston Brothers. They are an Aero stocklist and they may have your dream jacket n stock, if not they can order it.

 

[Guppy]

Langlitz would be my first stop Since you are in Portland already.
If you feel like a road trip then drive up to Seattle and check out Thurston Brothers. They are an Aero stocklist and they may have your dream jacket n stock, if not they can order it.

Thurston Bros does not have a storefront, and hasn't for years. They're web only now, but they still do good service.

 

[JMax]

I see you Jonesy. Glad all is well bud.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Another satisfied Langlitz customer here.
A custom Langlitz Crescent with dress collar and false half belt instead of kidney panels can give you the look of that 30s half belt. Just choose the super slim fit out of the four fit options. If you can, go to their store it would be the best, they can measure you and you can try things on. And maybe take a few store photos with jackets and post here.

 

[kyngfish]

Langlitz would be my first stop Since you are in Portland already.
If you feel like a road trip then drive up to Seattle and check out Thurston Brothers. They are an Aero stocklist and they may have your dream jacket n stock, if not they can order it.

Talking to Thurston for sure. But the way they work is they essentially want me to commit to buy before I start the process with them. I understand that’s their process but I wish it were more flexible. I’ve never touched aero or theti nor do I know their ability to do “custom” work and at over a grand a pop it’s a pretty big commitment. I’d love to be able to see and touch a jacket before I think about buying.

 

[Aloysius]

Hey all. Looking to invest in a nice leather jacket. But I ALWAYS have issues with fit. My shoulders are 17 across and my chest is 40. Around the shoulders is something like 47. My waist measures 35 but my Jean size is 31-32 depending on manufacturer. But where a lot of people have sort of sloping shoulders mine sort of cut straight across. Usually if something fits me in the chest and shoulders I’m swimming in it. Last time I ordered a 40 jacket it was huge.

The replies are giving you Langlitz recommendations, understandably based on where you live, but no one has addressed the point that your measurements and shape are… extremely normal.

My impression is much simpler: you've been buying jackets whose patterns don't suit you; the labeled size doesn't say much, let alone carry across jackets from the same maker let alone different makers.

My assumption is that what you consider 'fits me in the chest and shoulders' is probably a little too large for you; what would probably work better is a trimmer chest with a high armhole + bi-swing back, perhaps underarm gussets.

 

[El Marro]

Thurston Bros does not have a storefront, and hasn't for years. They're web only now, but they still do good service.

That is true. However, I believe they offer in person fittings by appointment. For a while they were doing them at a lovely local community center, I’m not sure if that is still the case.

 

[El Marro]

Talking to Thurston for sure. But the way they work is they essentially want me to commit to buy before I start the process with them. I understand that’s their process but I wish it were more flexible. I’ve never touched aero or theti nor do I know their ability to do “custom” work and at over a grand a pop it’s a pretty big commitment. I’d love to be able to see and touch a jacket before I think about buying.

I get it. I bought my first Aero from Thurston over the phone back in 2015. I felt like a total chump paying out a grand for a jacket I hadn’t even laid eyes on other than some pictures on the web.
One thing I can say is that the folks at Thurston are good at getting you into a jacket that fits and in my experience they are committed to making sure you are happy with your purchase.

 

[Liveinstyle33]

This is not in Portland, but if you take a 3 hour road trip, you can visit the Thurston Bro's store in Seattle. They have 3 very good leather jacket brands.

Talking to Thurston for sure. But the way they work is they essentially want me to commit to buy before I start the process with them. I understand that’s their process but I wish it were more flexible. I’ve never touched aero or theti nor do I know their ability to do “custom” work and at over a grand a pop it’s a pretty big commitment. I’d love to be able to see and touch a jacket before I think about buying.

I have ordered 3 jackets from Thurston Bros. All of them were a great success. You can meticulously figure out what size you need and what features you want on a custom jacket through email communication with Carrie. For instance, I have had emails that went back and forth about 50 times (at least) over the course of many days to have questions answered and to get everything right. She will send you a fit jacket so you can know what the custom jacket will feel like, or close enough to it. Of course, you need to make a down payment to get the fit jacket though. You can keep the fit jacket if you decide you like it enough, I did that once.

The process with Thurston Bros. is a bit time consuming, but this is not and should not be a problem if you want a very good jacket made right. You will likely get what you want and be very happy about it. They are not a step in the store and buy it on the spot kind of business, unless you are in Seattle I suppose. All of their leather jackets are high quality and have a lot of presense. These are not normal, mass produced jackets, they are a big step above most leather jackets out there.

 

[kyngfish]

My impression is much simpler: you've been buying jackets whose patterns don't suit you; the labeled size doesn't say much, let alone carry across jackets from the same maker let alone different makers.

My assumption is that what you consider 'fits me in the chest and shoulders' is probably a little too large for you; what would probably work better is a trimmer chest with a high armhole + bi-swing back, perhaps underarm gussets.

your assumption would be wrong. I’ve been having suits made on my body in all sorts of places from the very basic bespoke to a guy coming to my house measuring the angles of my shoulders and hips for a Lumbs Golden Bale suit that still fits me like a glove and looks like about a million bucks since around 2010. A leather jacket was something I simply wasn’t aware could be ordered custom until last week but I’m very leery of “made to measure” because it isn’t the same as having something made for you.

I don’t know if my measurements are “normal” or not but generally when I order something off the rack the fit doesn’t work. My shoulders don’t slope - they go straight across. So I generally get a roll under the collar and the waist on my jackets will flare out like a bell because the cut is meant to sit at a different angle. And what I said about the shoulders and waist is true. Accept it or not.

I don’t really wear suits anymore but I ordered a pea coat from a reputable place last year and the 40 size was huge. But when I put a tape around my chest it’s between 40-41. My jeans are 31 and run about 200 bucks a pop but my waist definitely is around 34-35.

Vanity sizing is a thing. Trying to avoid it in this case. I’ve run across clothiers that try to stick to real measurements and others that seem to go by some kind of industry standard. Just trying to figure out which one.

 

[Aloysius]

your assumption would be wrong. I’ve been having suits made on my body in all sorts of places from the very basic bespoke to a guy coming to my house measuring the angles of my shoulders and hips for a Lumbs Golden Bale suit that still fits me like a glove and looks like about a million bucks since around 2010. A leather jacket was something I simply wasn’t aware could be ordered custom until last week but I’m very leery of “made to measure” because it isn’t the same as having something made for you.

I don’t know if my measurements are “normal” or not but generally when I order something off the rack the fit doesn’t work. My shoulders don’t slope - they go straight across. So I generally get a roll under the collar and the waist on my jackets will flare out like a bell because the cut is meant to sit at a different angle. And what I said about the shoulders and waist is true. Accept it or not.

I don’t really wear suits anymore but I ordered a pea coat from a reputable place last year and the 40 size was huge. But when I put a tape around my chest it’s between 40-41. My jeans are 31 and run about 200 bucks a pop but my waist definitely is around 34-35.

Vanity sizing is a thing. Trying to avoid it in this case. I’ve run across clothiers that try to stick to real measurements and others that seem to go by some kind of industry standard. Just trying to figure out which one.

Your (apparent) assumption about me is mistaken as well.

I’m not implying that you don’t understand tailoring, but tailoring is a fundamentally different enterprise from leather jackets. In the case of leather jackets, even bespoke won’t necessarily fit better than off-the-rack, let alone made-to-measure. Leather as a material will mold and adapt in a way that textile does not. It confused me initially as well, coming from bespoke tailoring as my clothing background. I’m pointing this stuff out because I recognize some of my own thinking on the matter that I worked out.

You’re stating something that doesn’t contradict my point at all… There are some jacket patterns with fairly straight shoulders (many Aeros fall into this category), others with sloped shoulders. Straight shoulders on a leather jacket can still work on someone with sloped shoulders because of the aforementioned tendency of leather to adapt–but not vice versa I’d think, which was my point regarding what you’d tried that didn’t work.

Why would I not accept your waist and shoulder measurement? You and I have similar measurements.

A pea coat in particular is going to be large in the chest by nature given the type of garment it is; not so much a case of vanity sizing in that case as it is capacity of layering.

Measurements can be useful for ruling out leather jackets (though even there they can mislead) but they will rarely tell you much about how a jacket fits.

From what you’ve talked about, for instance, I’d think an Aero 50s Half Belt or Highwayman in size 38 could well fit the bill due to their straight shoulders (especially compared to the 30s/Premier cut) and body shape, where what could be boxiness elsewhere becomes an attractive part of the design. The 50s Half Belt is a bit neater; someone posted one here recently.

 

[kyngfish]

Your (apparent) assumption about me is mistaken as well.

I’m not implying that you don’t understand tailoring, but tailoring is a fundamentally different enterprise from leather jackets. In the case of leather jackets, even bespoke won’t necessarily fit better than off-the-rack, let alone made-to-measure. Leather as a material will mold and adapt in a way that textile does not. It confused me initially as well, coming from bespoke tailoring as my clothing background. I’m pointing this stuff out because I recognize some of my own thinking on the matter that I worked out.

You’re stating something that doesn’t contradict my point at all… There are some jacket patterns with fairly straight shoulders (many Aeros fall into this category), others with sloped shoulders. Straight shoulders on a leather jacket can still work on someone with sloped shoulders because of the aforementioned tendency of leather to adapt–but not vice versa I’d think, which was my point regarding what you’d tried that didn’t work.

Why would I not accept your waist and shoulder measurement? You and I have similar measurements.

A pea coat in particular is going to be large in the chest by nature given the type of garment it is; not so much a case of vanity sizing in that case as it is capacity of layering.

Measurements can be useful for ruling out leather jackets (though even there they can mislead) but they will rarely tell you much about how a jacket fits.

From what you’ve talked about, for instance, I’d think an Aero 50s Half Belt or Highwayman in size 38 could well fit the bill due to their straight shoulders (especially compared to the 30s/Premier cut) and body shape, where what could be boxiness elsewhere becomes an attractive part of the design. The 50s Half Belt is a bit neater; someone posted one here recently.

Haha. Alright. Fair enough. The bottom line though is although my chest is a 40. My size is probably a 38.

For the chest/waist thing. It wasn’t the measurement. It’s the weather I know what fits in my chest or not. I’m not trying to imply that I’m particularly athletic or anything it’s just something I’ve always had an issue with. When I put on a shirt that generally fits better in the waist - I find that when I move my arms I can’t pull them forward of my body without the back feeling tight and the shoulder seam is usually pretty high up on my shoulder. When I find something that allows arm movement it usually is fairly wide in the waist. My understanding is that most clothes are cut with a 3-4 inch drop from chest to waist. My chest is 40-41 and my waist is 34-35. So a 38 shirt will have a 34-35 waist (with a little room) but will fit me tight in the chest. A 40 shirt will have a 36-37 waist (with a little room).

It definitely changes by manufacturer. I can buy Kuhl sweaters all day but Patagonia fits really badly. And Patagonia is supposedly more “premium”.

Maybe I’m a dumb child but I’ve always wanted a cool leather jacket and I currently have 2 - one I bought in turkey and the other in Italy. Neither of them fit well.

That’s why I’m struggling because I would definitely want to get the jacket from thurston bros but I don’t love that I can’t try before buying or return.

Sorry if I’m a bit defensive but right now I’m about 2000 bucks into jackets that I don’t love so I’m a little gun shy.

 

[MrProper]

Haha. Alright. Fair enough. The bottom line though is although my chest is a 40. My size is probably a 38.

For the chest/waist thing. It wasn’t the measurement. It’s the weather I know what fits in my chest or not. I’m not trying to imply that I’m particularly athletic or anything it’s just something I’ve always had an issue with. When I put on a shirt that generally fits better in the waist - I find that when I move my arms I can’t pull them forward of my body without the back feeling tight and the shoulder seam is usually pretty high up on my shoulder. When I find something that allows arm movement it usually is fairly wide in the waist. My understanding is that most clothes are cut with a 3-4 inch drop from chest to waist. My chest is 40-41 and my waist is 34-35. So a 38 shirt will have a 34-35 waist (with a little room) but will fit me tight in the chest. A 40 shirt will have a 36-37 waist (with a little room).

It definitely changes by manufacturer. I can buy Kuhl sweaters all day but Patagonia fits really badly. And Patagonia is supposedly more “premium”.

Maybe I’m a dumb child but I’ve always wanted a cool leather jacket and I currently have 2 - one I bought in turkey and the other in Italy. Neither of them fit well.

That’s why I’m struggling because I would definitely want to get the jacket from thurston bros but I don’t love that I can’t try before buying or return.

Sorry if I’m a bit defensive but right now I’m about 2000 bucks into jackets that I don’t love so I’m a little gun shy.

I know exactly what the problem is. If a shirt fits me on top, I can wrap it twice around my stomach. With me it comes on top of that that then a lot is also too short.
I have 43 chest or so and wear jeans in 31 width, sometimes 32.
I recommend jackets that allow a large chest to hip ratio.
Aeros Cafe Racer would be something like that. That should also go well with the straight shoulders.

 

[jacketjunkie]

Langlitz offers their pattern with 3 different shoulder designs, vertical, slightly sloped, sloped. They also generally speaking have wide shoulders and narrow waists and they modify pretty much all of these for you. Just get there and try on a few jackets. They will get you sized up just fine.

That‘s also my best advice, regardless of maker, go and try on jackets if you can. It‘s time spent much better than being all theoretical about body proportions on the internet.

 

[kyngfish]

Langlitz offers their pattern with 3 different shoulder designs, vertical, slightly sloped, sloped. They also generally speaking have wide shoulders and narrow waists and they modify pretty much all of these for you. Just get there and try on a few jackets. They will get you sized up just fine.

That‘s also my best advice, regardless of maker, go and try on jackets if you can. It‘s time spent much better than being all theoretical about body proportions on the internet.

True!

Unfortunately this thread I think was started on a Friday night and they are closed on the weekend so we have nothing to do but talk about theoretical body proportions.

Second is that they are probably the best Portland option but they don’t seem to really do the style I was looking for and focus more on motorcycle style jackets. Very cool. But not what I was looking for.

That said. Definitely going on Monday because I do want to check them out. Who knows. Maybe I’ll love it.

 

[Aloysius]

The bottom line though is although my chest is a 40. My size is probably a 38.

And my contention is that numbered sizes are pretty much meaningless. There’s no singular definition of any of those sizes. You’re going to have to try them on.