Leather jacket fit

[Matt Deckard]

Since you guys obviously have alot to say on this subject you should have your own thread.

Originally posted by MudInYerEye

So Who has vintage flight jackets, and how do the armoholes compare?

Can we get some pics with your arms straight out to your sides to see how far the shoulders lift?

I'll have my lady takes some pictures and post 'em, but give me a day or two as she is awfully lazy.
Regarding low armholes again, as much as I love Aero's civilian jackets (a lot), the armholes on the halfbelts, barnstormers, highwaymen, etc are way too relaxed to be truly period fitting, consequently bringing about the batwing effect (the Aero/LVC blue/black jacket being the only exception I've encountered). I wrote to Mark Moye about this several months ago hoping to buy a new Cossack and the factory informed him that they will not alter the armhole depth, even upon request. So, no new Cossack as $700 is lot to spend for something that is only 85% correct.
The McCoy's 1939 Hercules repro I picked up in Japan has the high and tight armholes of vintage jackets (it also features two beautiful repros of 30's Waldes zippers, one bell {riveted} and one ballchain).
Sorry to harp on leather jackets in a suit thread, I suppose the point is that low armholes are a problem with nearly every men's garment these days (including t-shirts and sweatshirts).

 

[airfrogusmc]

Originally Posted by Matt Deckard
So Who has vintage flight jackets, and how do the armoholes compare?

Can we get some pics with your arms straight out to your sides to see how far the shoulders lift?

Matt I'm lucky to have a very good friend of mine that has an incredible collection of original A-2 and Navy (422 422a's ANJ3a's etc.) and had at one time an example of every major maker from WWII. Also has some VERY LARGE originals. I can tell you with originals fit was ALL OVER THE PLACE. There are some traits consistent with certain makers but you can always find exceptions to every rule.
Areos early jackets 38 & 40 were very short in the waist. Allot of original Aeros have a bit of droop at the shoulders. Dubows tend to have high arm holes and narrow shoulders(again not all but most) Roughwear is full and also has a bit of shoulder droop. Usually the horsehide is very grainy and mismatched. Pockets sometimes have different shapes on the flap between the right and left pocket. One collar tip might be pointy while the other is rounded. Seams that are not straight. Also I've seen 27798 Dubows (all the same contract) that were very light brown all the way to VERY DARK (and not redyes) with all different types of zippers. (Talons, Crowns, Conmar and a really dark 27798 with a bell shaped Qwik (did I spell that right?)

 

[Daniel Riser]

My original Cable Raincoat A2 that I sold to Aero had the highest cut armholes I have ever seen on a jacket. I loved the fit of that jacket. I should have kept it. Oh well.

 

[airfrogusmc]

Matt I gotta say I've seen and owned allot of repros and that Sefton is a real nice repro. It really looks the part.

 

[Matt Deckard]

Matt I gotta say I've seen and owned allot of repros and that Sefton is a real nice repro. It really looks the part.

Thanks... The ladies like it too!

 

[airfrogusmc]

The gals have always like the flyboys.

 

[JWG]

I think in my case the tighter armholes were initially somewhat of a shock when I got my first vintage cut A2 and people say oh well I'm not a "vintage" person.

I think what happens is two things:

#1 is you get used to the closer fit and #2 is the jacket sort of breaks in and molds to your shape.

 

[Matt Deckard]

I think that ease of putting on the jackets got confused with ease of wearing somewhere along the line. It's easy to put on a large arholed jacket, though it is hard to wear. It is hard to put on a small armholed jacket, though it is easy to wear.

 

[airfrogusmc]

Well said Matt. I think we live (not most that post here) in such an immediate society that we don't want to take years to break a jacket in (look at all the preaged and crappy leather jackets sold at the mall). Arm holes that are high and tight will keep the jacket down when you raise your arms. They also look so neat and trim without giving that younger brothers jacket look. It seems that we are finally getting away from that BAGGY prison clothing look. It seems that allot of classic looks are back in style. My wife always made fun of my love for vintage jeans and flight jackets until last year 'bout this time she saw a B-3 in vogue. It was a recreation by I wanna say Ralph Lauren. A beautiful woman model had it on over an expensive gown. The jacket looked to be a good repro. No handwarmer pockets and the small map pocket on the front. It sold for twice what a McCoys is going for so suddenly had become more credible and didn't look like such a fashion nightmare to her. I had a nicer B-3 and paid half for it.

 

[Canadave]

Hey Matt, what's the cap in that pic of you?

David

 

[Matt Deckard]

Hey Matt, what's the cap in that pic of you?

David

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=4224&highlight=one+piece+cap


For another leather jacket armhole picture...

Sky Captain...

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I'm afraid i'm not sure at all about the vintage of this jacket (for all i know it was made yesterday (no tags)). Or the model. Maybe you guys can give me some opinions. The collar is dark brown faux fur. The inner lining is cream faux fur (both imitation sheepskin). Arms are quilted. The pockets are larger than the ones i've seen on the flight jackets posted in the Lounge so far. These ones can actually hold a map without having to fold it too much!

I think BellyTank said something about one of his flight jackets not fitting correctly until it was all zipped up. Well, this is exactly the same - nothing seems to fit right until i get the zipper up 3/4 to 7/8 of the way, and then snap, everything falls into place. I think the armholes are cut pretty high - not too much shoulder movement or rise of the lower hem in this profoundly unnatural pose (2nd image) ...

bk

 

[The Mad Hatter]

Thanks... The ladies like it too!

The quality of your jacket is interesting - so far as that goes.

My question is - how do you get those babes.

 

[Michaelson]

He didn't. The ladies were having a picnic, and he just flopped down in front of them for this shot.

Regards! Michaelson

 

[Matt Deckard]

He didn't. The ladies were having a picnic, and he just flopped down in front of them for this shot.

Regards! Michaelson

Yeah... ahem... that's it exactly!

 

[Michaelson]

Well...that's how I do it....[huh]

Regards! Michaelson