Lapel buttonholes

[anon`]

So I, as many other men presumably, have always taken for granted that the buttonhole on one's lapel is on the left side, save for those double breasted suits which sport them to the right and left.

But tonight as I sit here watching The Big Sleep, I notice that Bogie is wearing a single-breasted jacket (with standard fare notch lapels) with a single button hole... on the right side.

Has anyone else seen this before? Am I just now noticing something that you are all (by now) laughing heartily about? Just curious, as this is the first time I've never seen it happen this way (and no, the print isn't reversed; it's clearly opposite the breast pocket. I dunno. I found it interesting, at least

 

[Matt Deckard]

Actually yes... We have a thread here somewhere that talks about this. It was odd for me to see that as well. Studio Tailor showing his own style is my guess.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Creative tailors played around with lapel buttonholes. Below is an early 1950s suit made by OVIATT'S, perhaps the finest haberdasher of the Golden Era. (Gable, Flynn and Astaire were customers.) Take a look at the lapels. See anything surprising?

 

[Wild Root]

Oh yes, the button holes... I recall you mentioning this suit.

I've seen some very interesting suit coats in my years of collecting. I've seen some with two on the notched lapels and some with no button holes at all! Some of the French double breasted suits I've seen have no button holes!

Tailors around the world did some interesting things when it came to suits... Marc can attest to this, which we've both seen some very interesting details on both American and European suits. I recall seeing two double breasted suits that a dealer had (Marc it was Ben) they were three piece double breasted suits... they had a high rise in the back of the pants with the notched back... they came up high! Not only that, they had the small buckle belt in the back of the pants! The cut was very 30's in style but... the date threw my trolley off the track! The date was 1941!!! :eusa_doh: So, there are some general rules of thumb to go by but, it's kind of hard some times to figure the age unless there is a date.

But, back to button holes! Like I mentioned earlier, it all depended on who the tailor was and what the customer wanted! Now, on all the "off the rack" suits from Sears and Wards and other large department stores one can count on a uniform style in their suits.

=WR=

 

[Marc Chevalier]

More OVIATT'S photos coming.

 

[Wild Root]

OVIATT'S is where it's at!

Can't wait Marc!

=WR=