Johnson leather Horween 6oz cxl overdye D-pocket and 4.5 -5oz CXL natural LeatherTogs project

[Hh121]

I would like to create this thread to record the ordering process with Johnson leather, particular with Alan. We talked about 50 minutes to confirm some basic details, no need to mention again that he is a good person with great knowledge.

Front: without coin pocket, no chest pocket like j-82, no belt loops, no epaulets and collar snaps, no hardware on pockets , still thinking about which pocket shape and position I go with between those three.

Big collar like this:

Back: action back or no action back? visually I prefer no action back.

Zipper: #10 oxidized ykk, seems my only option for 6oz hide.

Any other advice or suggestions are welcome, though I have been TFL for few years but I have not gain much of knowledge except know how to weight my jacket, lol!

Thanks !

 

[nick123]

I think the jacket will turn out great in that top Trojan pattern, modified to your preferences. I'd not get the action back.

 

[Hh121]

I think the jacket will turn out great in that top Trojan pattern, modified to your preferences. I'd not get the action back.

Yes, Trojan back is attractive. I would like something simple, extra work will also adding cost I think.

 

[jacketjunkie]

Ok so 6oz waxed leather will be estimated 2.0-2.2 mm thick. Breaking in 2mm thick leather is tough. Breaking in 6mm of leather is nearly impossible and the jacket will have seams that thick. So in order for that jacket to ever break in and not look like a cardboard box, you should aim for as few seams as possible. Long story short:no action back and avoid multi panel constructions. As few panels and accordingly few seams as possible is the best advice I have.

By no collar studs do you mean no studs on collar or also no studs on the lapels? Because I would defo get studs on the lapels to make sure they stay put and lay flat. Otherwise you may have the "vanson arrow" problems of the lapels being everywhere but not lieing flat as they should.

 

[handymike]

This!
All the way...

 

[Hh121]

Ok so 6oz waxed leather will be estimated 2.0-2.2 mm thick. Breaking in 2mm thick leather is tough. Breaking in 6mm of leather is nearly impossible and the jacket will have seams that thick. So in order for that jacket to ever break in and not look like a cardboard box, you should aim for as few seams as possible. Long story short:no action back and avoid multi panel constructions. As few panels and accordingly few seams as possible is the best advice I have.

By no collar studs do you mean no studs on collar or also no studs on the lapels? Because I would defo get studs on the lapels to make sure they stay put and lay flat. Otherwise you may have the "vanson arrow" problems of the lapels being everywhere but not lieing flat as they should.

very useful suggestions, thank you!
The reason I dare to order 6oz leather because of Horween cxl overdye that JL spec gets soften fairly quickly unlike any other leather.
interesting point about important of collar snap, Alan didn't mention that when I bring out removing collar snap, I will consult with him again.

 

[roadking04]

6 oz hide?!!!?!! YOU ARE THE MAN!!!

Can't wait to see this behemoth!!!

Thanks for sharing the process.

 

[jonbuilder]

This!
All the way...
View attachment 254090

what is this jacket? curious mines inquire

 

[Hh121]

what is this jacket? curious mines inquire

Buco j-82

 

[Monitor]

This!
All the way...
View attachment 254090

Agreed, although with a bigger, more shaped collar. Clean back would look good.

 

[Harris HTM]

Up to now I was using the word "bulletproof" only metaphorically when referring to a leather jacket. But I trully believe that for a 6oz beast it can be used literally.
Keep us posted!

 

[jonbuilder]

Hh I have only had one jacket made for me that was a full custom by Johnson Leather. I worked with Alan love the result and will never sell it. JL is the only maker I am considering for another jacket. I thought about something along the line of the Trojan or Leathertogs A that LW makes. The only thing holding me back is funds. I like Himel also but more funds required, JL is a known and proven maker to me, and JL I can ride to for fitting, in fact, a nice ride up the embarcadero.

 

[Hh121]

Hh I have only had one jacket made for me that was a full custom by Johnson Leather. I worked with Alan love the result and will never sell it. JL is the only maker I am considering for another jacket. I thought about something along the line of the Trojan or Leathertogs A that LW makes. The only thing holding me back is funds. I like Himel also but more funds required, JL is a known and proven maker to me, and JL I can ride to for fitting, in fact, a nice ride up the embarcadero.

This jacket blow my mind, the pattern, hide, looking etc...... It's my best jacket compare with others I have (LW, Aero, Vanson)

 

[roadking04]

The reason I dare to order 6oz leather because of Horween cxl overdye that JL spec gets soften fairly quickly unlike any other leather.

I am actually starting my custom "perfecto" order with JL. I have never handled a jacket in the overdye. My jacket from them was the "police" leather. I thought the overdye was stiff and took some time to break in. I don't think I have seen a jacket with any brown showing thru. I am very curious about the overdye, I only have a small sample scrap.

Edit: That is a gorgeous half belt. I love the natural beauty of the hide.

 

[Hh121]

I am actually starting my custom "perfecto" order with JL. I have never handled a jacket in the overdye. My jacket from them was the "police" leather. I thought the overdye was stiff and took some time to break in. I don't think I have seen a jacket with any brown showing thru. I am very curious about the overdye, I only have a small sample scrap.

great choice to go with JL! you wont be disappoint with overdye, it will get buttery soft much quicker unlike the heavy cxl I have from Aero which still stiff, horween cxl overdye is now my favorite hide. (I think it is spec exclusively for JL )

 

[roadking04]

great choice to go with JL!

JL has no fear. They will take on all customs. A real pleasure to work with.

I really enjoyed their 3.5oz police leather. Almost went with it again for this build. I am curious how the overdye will age. I really like a more shiny black leather. The overdye appears to be a little more dull(matte) to me and "not as black." Hard to tell from a small sample piece.

 

[ton312]

I second the notion for the j-82 front config. The Trojan front is great too but might look off w/out the coin pocket, given the d pocket itself sits at a steeper angle.

 

[JMax]

I’m working with Constantine on some sort of J-82 hybrid, so that is what I would do. But I’ve got plenty of D pockets with the coin pocket. If you don’t get the horizontal chest pocket make that D pocket big AF. Like Aero’s KOTR. Big. Beautiful.

No AB. No gussets. But you have to nail the pattern and fit.

I would get hidden snaps on collar but they less important if you don’t ride. And the weight of the leather should keep it them down (my LW Trojan has no snaps, those puppies are the only snap less lapels I own that don’t flutter in the wind when riding).

Sleeve zips on top. Maybe longer than normal, Durable style, i love that.

I wouldn’t mess around with the main zipper. Can Alan get you a 10 Crown?

No interior pockets. Streamline this jacket.

what lining are you thinking about using?

 

[Hh121]

I’m working with Constantine on some sort of J-82 hybrid, so that is what I would do. But I’ve got plenty of D pockets with the coin pocket. If you don’t get the horizontal chest pocket make that D pocket big AF. Like Aero’s KOTR. Big. Beautiful.

No AB. No gussets. But you have to nail the pattern and fit.

I would get hidden snaps on collar but they less important if you don’t ride. And the weight of the leather should keep it them down (my LW Trojan has no snaps, those puppies are the only snap less lapels I own that don’t flutter in the wind when riding).

Sleeve zips on top. Maybe longer than normal, Durable style, i love that.

I wouldn’t mess around with the main zipper. Can Alan get you a 10 Crown?

No interior pockets. Streamline this jacket.

what lining are you thinking about using?

Thanks!
Sorry what is AB? I intend to do front exactly like original j-82 without those hardware.
The biggest concern is the fit of the back, without half belt it can be tricky. I am even thinking about adding half belt like my current one, I don't know if it's a horrible idea.
Fancy zipper will be pricey. I wouldn't be bothered since it is oxidized ykk (main is no.10, sleeves is no.5), don't want spend too much for a zipper.
Lining is thinsulate quilted lining at both body and sleeves .

 

[JMax]

Action Back. Sounds sweet, all of it. I’m excited for you bud.