Jacket sleeve length "rules of thumb"?

[holdencain]

I hate to speak of generalities.......but "in general", where would one desire the sleeve of a leather jacket to end?

I have heard things such as "at the first knuckle of the thumb".....? I am speaking in particular of many of the fine leathers we see in this forum, such as the Aero Highwayman or the 30's/50's Half Belt variety. It seems that perhaps a length down to "the first knuckle" is maybe a shade too long....but I await sage advice from my esteemed colleagues.
Thanks,
H

 

[Navin323i]

I guess it really depends on one's personal preference. I know for me I hate to have the sleeve roll back on my arm too much when I'm driving so first knuckle of the thumb (base of the thumb, right?) sounds about right to me.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Depends what you're doing with the jacket. If you're riding a motorcycle/bicycle you'll want a bit of length so that when you stretch arms forward to grip, the arms won't be riding up around the middle of your forearms.

If not riding a motorcycle/bicycle, they could probably do to be quite a bit shorter. Not so short as a suit jacket (which I like to be around the level of my watch).

Of course the type of arm opening (e.g. elasticated vs buttoned) makes a lot of difference.

bk

 

[Dav]

Some leather jackets may shorten slightly in the arm as the creases develop, you might want to take that into consideration as well.

 

[GriffDeLaGriff]

Yeah defenately think about the creases.

I was thinking about this just the other day, my Highwayman sleeves were kinda long but now they are almost short. I think the nature of the FQHH makes it almost impossible to have too long sleeve since it is so formable it will just crease up to where you bend the wrist.

I have not been riding or driving at all in my jacket, just walking solo and with the baby carriage, but I do have the zipsleeve and I have had them zipped up during the breaking in period. The zipped up zipsleeves will probably make more creases and taking the sleeve up higher due to its snugness, but I have seen highwayman jackets develop very hard creases on normal sleeves aswell.

The FQHH is not like other leathers I have had. If you bend the front end of the jacket outwards, it almost stays like that. It is moldable, but still stiff. I think adding some just to be sure could not possible do any damage, but let others chip in on this that may have had other experiences.

I think I added an inch to where I wanted the jacket to be.
But as I said, I have zipsleeves.

 

[holdencain]

I think I added an inch to where I wanted the jacket to be.

Do you think this would go for goat also??
H

 

[too much coffee]

H:

Wouldn't think so. Goatskin has a softer more flexible hand and won't crease or wrinkle as much as heavy FQHH or heavy steer.

coffee

 

[The Good]

I'd prefer the sleeve length to end around the wrist, with the knit cuffs, without being too baggy from the top, but I can imagine the practicality of a motorcycle jacket having the sleeves, usually not knit (?), longer to around the knuckle. That would not be my preference though.

 

[holdencain]

H:

Wouldn't think so. Goatskin has a softer more flexible hand and won't crease or wrinkle as much as heavy FQHH or heavy steer.

coffee

That is what I was thinking. I am ordering an Aero 1930's Halfbelt in Goatskin and was wondering if the sleeve length would *shrink* at all over time. I don't want the button cuff to hang too low and impede wrist motion.
H

 

[Tomasso]

Also wearing a sweater under a jacket will serve to effectively shorten the sleeves, so plan accordingly. I always get my jacket sleeves a touch too long as they can always be shortened if need be but they can't be lengthened.

 

[too much coffee]

H,

Good job H, that Aero Halfbelt should be "quite the treat" in goatskin. Every Aero example in goatskin I have seen has been absolutely gorgeous.
Are you going direct to Scotland or with Mark @ AeroUSA?

Best of luck with the order and futuristically, the jacket.

Regards, coffee

 

[1087]

That is what I was thinking. I am ordering an Aero 1930's Halfbelt in Goatskin and was wondering if the sleeve length would *shrink* at all over time. I don't want the button cuff to hang too low and impede wrist motion.
H

"at the first knuckle of the thumb"
H;
Since you are going with goatskin and the jacket will no be use for riding , I think 3/4 of an inch before the first knuckle of the thumb will do it perfect for you.
Please let us know how it works for you.

 

[GriffDeLaGriff]

I agree, my goatskin jacket hasnt creased much.

 

[holdencain]

H,

Good job H, that Aero Halfbelt should be "quite the treat" in goatskin. Every Aero example in goatskin I have seen has been absolutely gorgeous.
Are you going direct to Scotland or with Mark @ AeroUSA?

Best of luck with the order and futuristically, the jacket.

Regards, coffee

I am going through Amanda in Scotland. I will be reproducing closely the recent Jacket of JanSolo. He has been terrific in helping me with nailing down the details....to the point that I think I scared him off (...sorry Jan)!! But this is my first Aero and doing things mail order (and being an OCD surgeon...) means that I have to at least *feel* like I look at all variables before a final order.

H

 

[ron521]

Desirable sleeve length depends on a lot of things...how well the sleeves are articulated to the body, how trim fitting the sleeves are, what type of cuff, etc.

A jacket with a good bi-swing back and gussets under the arm can have enough freedom of motion that the sleeves don't need to reach any further than the first knuckle of the thumb, as they won't ride up much when reaching.

A jacket with the sleeves attached more simply, or with fuller sleeves with larger armholes for the body, often WILL pull the sleeves back a bit as you reach forward.
These jackets also often give you the "Flying Squirrel" look if you spread your arms out.
For this type of jacket, it may be better to have the sleeves reach further down the back of your hand, to near your finger knuckles.

Trim fitting sleeves allow better range of motion, full sleeves allow easier layering underneath, so it's a tradeoff.

I strongly prefer trim sleeves which reach to the first thumb knuckle. Jackets that go too far down the back of my hand feel "too big" to me.

 

[Kt Templar]

Ron I agree, to where your thumb joins your hand feels a good spot for an open cuff jacket.

But where to measure for an A2 style? Do you measure the leather and where should *that* stop if so?

 

[ron521]

An A2, or any jacket with exposed knit cuffs, will probably be tailored so that the leather stops a couple of inches higher than the first thumb knuckle.

The rest of the distance will be taken up by the knit cuff, which is a lot more flexible than leather and can expand or compress to accommodate arm movement.

This is how my Schott 184 (size 40) flight jacket is tailored, the leather portion of the sleeve is 22 1/2" long, with a knit cuff 3" long.

Compare this to my Schott 141 (size 40) motorcycle jacket, with leather sleeves 25" long and no knit cuff, but closed by a zipper near the end.

Both have very good bi-swing backs and under-arm gussets, so articulation is good.
Either works well reaching for things, driving, or riding a motorcycle.

Different solutions to a similar problem, although for most people, a knit cuff is easier to live with than the zipper cuff used on motorcycle jackets.

 

[Kt Templar]

Weirdly, I haven't had a knit cuff on a jacket since I was about 14. I've always thought of them as being a bit hot and scratchy. I really love the barrel cuff on the Indy jacket but it must be the right size for the wearer, even if it has to be tailored to fit.

 

[Papa M]

I have not been riding or driving at all in my jacket, just walking solo and with the baby carriage.....

Perhaps "driving" the baby carriage? Unless its one of those new AeroBuggies or AquatiBuggies in which case you've been "flying" or "sailing" the Baby Carriage.lol

 

[ron521]

I have to agree that, in mild weather, a "open" cuff as used on an Indy jacket is nice.