Jacket Lining

[Orgetorix]

I've noticed that on many of the vintage suits FL members have displayed here, skeleton linings and and vests go together. That is, when the jacket has a skeleton lining, it often has a vest that covers the part of the shirt that the lining wouldn't touch. Between the vest and the jackets sleeves-and-shoulders lining, none of the shirt would contact the suit's material. Is this just a coincidence, or is it intentional? If the latter, did the demise of the waistcoat and the rise of fully lined jackets correspond to one another as well?

And, while I'm at it, it makes me wonder--what's the purpose of a lining, anyway? Comfort? Warmth? Minimizing friction? Preventing sweat from touching the suit's cloth?

 

[Matt Deckard]

I like the skeleton lining. I don't think it goes hand in glove with a vest by nature, I just think it was how suits were made back in the day. The skeleton lining was a costlier process which mad ethe tailor finish all the seams nice and tidy. I see more skeleton linings between the first World War and the second. many suits were made this way to conserve material. Having a lining does make the suit slide across your shirt though is of little use against your back as the suit and shirt don't really need to slide on and off that area.

Anywho... I don't think there is a connection between having vests and having skeleton linings. Many vintage European suits were fully lined and with vests.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Golden era Brit jackets are very rarely skeleton lined and very often came with waistcoats. I also think there is no connection between waistcoats and partial lingin of a jacket . . .

bk

 

[GoneSolo]

Could someone post pictures of the different types of linings? I couldn't spot them in the 'Details and Options' thread.

 

[manton]

This is what I call (and hear called) a "quarter lining." The shoulders are lined in back, and the sleeves are lined. Some of the interior seams are taped with lining, some are "turned" (the cloth is folded back underneath the seam allowance and the edge stitched down out of sight). This is the most common way I see "unlined" coats today.

 

[Matt Deckard]

I was just thinking about linings.

I had a thread here a while back that went over different materials though I think it may have dissapeared in a Lounge switchover when we opened up the joint on a new server.

Some materials jsut wear out faster and the bembergs aren't always what they are cracked up to be.

As I said recently in another thread, I have some pics to take...

very nice lining. I like how the wool not only leads to the pocket on the inside of the front, though it makes up a major portion of the inside front. No wool spared.

 

[Matt Deckard]

 

[Fifty150]

I'm guessing that the waistcoat, or vest, went the way of the extra pair of slacks. Remember when suits came with 2 pairs of pants? It cuts down on cost. Cost less to make the suit. Cost less to buy the suit.