Jacket #4 Finally Done...

[fishmeok]

I finally finished the next jacket. I made a different pattern for this one, based more on an A-2, essentially a Dubow body (one pice back, two pice arms) with narrow arms. I noticed that the A-2 patterns have a different shoulder cut than the civi jacket I originally used. In an A-2 the shoulder seam slopes toward the back, leaving the epaulet square on the shoulder. On my other pattern the shoulder seam is straight. It's a subtle difference, but I like the A-2 shoulder better. Unfortunately I tried to speed things up a bit and complete more steps at once, but that was a mistake and I ended up with the pockets and inner leather strips along the zipper being slightly off from each other. I was trying to make a 46-48, but I misjudged the final size and this is more like a small 44/42 long. Except for the items mentioned above I'm pretty happy with this one, I really like the cut and the pointy collar/pocket flaps (again loosly based on the Dubow).I kind of like the slightly off pockets too, adds a bit of character to the jacket. I'll be putting this one up for sale, I can't zip it up and still breathe...
Cheers
Mark

 

[Creeping Past]

I see what you mean about the 'character' pockets. But this is still a great-looking jacket.

I congratulate you on your posts on jacket development, which stand out for me as the most consistently inspiring FL posts this year.

Thanks for sharing this info with us, keep up the grand work and good luck with number 5... and nos. 6 and 7 and 8... I hope you'll keep posting new jacket photos.

 

[John in Covina]

Outstanding!

 

[carter]

Mark, It has been interesting following the development of your jackets. Another nice one and the added character make this one just a bit more special.

 

[Edward]

Which set of photos are truer to its real colour? (both look great). It has been interesting to watch your jackets progress, really enjoy these threads.

 

[rgraham]

Really great to see how much each jacket improves. Great job.

Two questions:

1. How come there is not wind flap?

2. Can you make me a jacket like this one?

 

[fishmeok]

Which set of photos are truer to its real colour? (both look great). It has been interesting to watch your jackets progress, really enjoy these threads.

Thanks everybody- this shot of jacket #3 in daylight is probably the closest to the true color. I bought enough of this leather to make two jackets, on jacket #5 (going to be an ANJ-3) I will try a different hide.
Cheers
Mark

 

[fishmeok]

Really great to see how much each jacket improves. Great job.

Two questions:

1. How come there is not wind flap?

2. Can you make me a jacket like this one?

I was trying to make something different- John already makes superb A-2's and I didn't want to get into the "perfect A-2 replica" argument. But each of the three I have made have kept getting closer and closer to an A-2 anyway. If I make another of this pattern I will probably just add a windflap and call it a "civilian" A-2.

After I get some more experience I am going to make some half-belt jackets like the one above (REALLY like that one by the way, do you have the jacket or more pics? Who made it? That one is going in my "ideas" folder). The coats I have made all have the same elements, except for the pockets and I will be practicing those on my next jacket. My biggest problem is patterns and sizing, I made the pattern for Jacket #4 by copying one of my A-2's, but since I couldn't take the original apart I had to guestimate and ended up quite a bit smaller than I originally intended. Probably take me a few months to get to that point, 'specially with a full time job and a 2 month old baby.
Cheers
Mark

 

[bburtner@moran]

A2

Great A2,you have the talent I must say!I wish it was my size.. Any thoughts on an A1? I would be very interested in having you make one.Thanks

 

[fishmeok]

I see what you mean about the 'character' pockets. But this is still a great-looking jacket.

Yeah, I think "character" is going to by my new special word for what most people would call a "mistake"
Cheers
Mark

 

[rgraham]

Here is a link to the Admiral Byrd jacket.

http://www.violetvillevintage.com/items/j164.htm

This site has a few more images that would be helpful in seeing how the jacket was made. I'm glad you're interested in this design, and I'm sure others around here will be as well.

 

[fishmeok]

That's really an impressive jacket- and basically a longer version of the one I just made, minus the knits and with larger armholes and slash pockets. It looks like the back tapers in a bit like most 3/4 coats I have seen, but it's very hard to tell from the photo. I'd be concerned about it being a little restrictive without a bi-swing back though.
Don't suppose anyone out there has one?
Cheers
Mark

 

[Peacoat]

Good show, Mark. I'm certainly impressed.

 

[fishmeok]

So I had some friends try this thing on to see if I could figure out the correct size. Unfortunately even a size 42 binds the arms when you raise them up and straight out forward. So I resorted to my favorite altering tool: the washing machine. Soaked the jacket then spun dry it. Put the wet jacket on (cold!) and did some stretches, moved some furniture, amused my infant son by waving my arms around and grimacing... Now it fits the way I intended it to in the beginning, just like my Goodwear Dubow. I have room in the chest, the arms do not bind up, and the grain has popped in the sleeves. The fit is trim but roomy, just enough room for a wool shirt or light sweater. This is by far my favorite out of the three I have made, if I didn't need the money to buy more hides I would be keeping it.
Cheers
Mark

BTW I pulled my neck out of joint stretching this thing, be warned- jackets can be hazardous to your health...

 

[Maj.Nick Danger]

Wow!

Haven't been around myself lately, but glad I clicked on The FL and saw the latest jacket.
Good show! :eusa_clap
So are you signing and numbering each one?
I still want one and want mine signed anyway, (maybe a tag somewhere inside),....so please PM me when you get a chance to discuss the particulars.

 

[thunderw21]

Wonderful. I don't notice the pocket goof when it is worn. I would have no doubt if you someday have your own quality jacket-making company. You have skills.