My experience has always been best to go for vintage... if you're a reasonable size that is. Also, they are a better buy... I'd spend $300. on a vintage suit over a tailored suit for $1000. Better fabric and cut and everything!
If you make it to LA, there are a number of tailors here that can copy anything you bring in! Even from old catalogs from the 40's!
There are a few makers that are getting it pretty close. I've alsays been a fan of the Brooks Brothers Sportjackets thoguh not their suits. The materials used are pretty good when it comes to pattern and the weight is not bad. Nip the waist in a bit and your friends will be asking if it's vintage. Ad a vintage tie and agood shirt and you're set.
As for suits... well at the moment I'm seeing a lot more variety at the shops... Single breasteds are getting better by being more fitted though lapels have gone narrow so the 40's look is hard to come by. If you want 60's your set but 40's from a modern maker is hard to find. On the expensive end is some of Ralph Lauren's Blue label kit though the fabric is more like silk than wool. He is going for the big shoulders with the nipped in waist in some cases they look more 30's with the lapel and skirt cuts with the narrower sleaves though the designs are straight out of the past but the workmanshi is still lacking when compared side by side with 40's.
I do like that bi-swing backs are making a comeback and that suits in general are making a comeback. I just saw a nice three piece plaid suit at Banana Republic which i would buy if the thing didn't ride up so much when I reached. I'd say keep searching at look in all the vintage shops you see and look often.
Those are some good tips but where I find the biggest problem is in the pants dept. To find a suit with high waisted baggies is next to impossible I've found without looking at zoot suits. I'm a musician and have been plaing in a small swing outfit and finding clothes is becoming an issue.
The worst of Ralph Lauren's manifestations (Lauren by Ralph Lauren (green label)) has the best of the trousers. Higher waisted with wider cut legs. The jackets are terrible when it comes to the armhole debacle, though the trousers are well cut and roomy.
Good deal as they cost 80 even on sale at the outlet. The trousers are the only things they don't put on clearance. Jackets shirts socks... everything else but the trousers are the hold out at all the outlets.
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