Introduction and a question

[Rebecca D]

Hi there,
I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢ve been checking out this site for a while but haven?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢t had the time to post anything. Finally I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢ve found a few spare moments so I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢d like to introduce myself. My name?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s Rebecca, I live in San Francisco and love vintage patterns and bright, pretty vintage fabric. I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢m still pretty much a novice when it comes to sewing ?¢‚Ǩ‚Äú I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢m completely self-taught ?¢‚Ǩ‚Äú but I am getting better and hope to be really good at it some day.

So that leads me to my question: my poor old Viking Husqvarna (which I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢ve always hated) is finally on its last leg, so I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢m in the market for a cheaper but good quality machine. In the past I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢ve had good look with Brother, so I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢m thinking about one of their LCD computerized models with an automatic button hole function, or venturing into the great unknown world of overlock machines.

For some reason sergers (are sergers and overlock machines the same thing?) scare me, and I think they may be quite limiting in what they do ?¢‚Ǩ‚Äú especially since they don?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢t have button hole and backstitch features, no? Plus, for those of you with overlock machines, do you think you could fake an overlock stitch with a good zigzag stitch on a sewing machine?

I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢m a sucker for shiny new toys and am the type of person that would buy an overlock machine just because it looks neat, but then throw it out the window in a fit of rage when I couldn?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢t figure out how to thread it. So, could someone please help me out?

Cheers,
Rebecca

 

[Lauren]

Hi Rebecca and welcome!

I have an overlock machine. It's really great if you want professional seams or if you're making things to sell. It also helps prevent fraying. But more and more I'm tending to simply pink the edges of my clothing. I figure that the way they would have made garments at home in the 30's and 40's they wouldn't have had overlock machines (even though they were invented somewhere around the teens). They were a luxury that not even some ready to wear companies used! If you look in your vintage patterns they will often show ways to finish seams, like pinked edges, or french seams, or maybe even zig-zag, like what you mentioned! I used to zig zag my edges a lot before I got my overlock machine. But really, unless you're doing custom stuff, it's more a luxury than something you really need. Plus they're a pain in the butt to thread

I'd love to see some of the things you've made sometime! The fabrics you talked about sound adorable!

 

[decodoll]

Welcome Rebecca! It's nice to see another San Fransican on the forums... and a sewing one at that. I traded in my very basic Viking for a fancier Brother a couple of years ago, and I couldn't be happier. I don't have an overlock. With all the overcast stitches and the special foot that my Brother came with, I don't find it nessessary. Mine wasn't exactly cheap. My mom got a lesser expensive model at Costco that still has the one step buttonhole, and she's been very happy with hers as well. Hope this helps.

 

[Rebecca D]

Thanks for the response, gals!

I think you've talked me out of buying the overlock machine.

Right now I'm stuck making only late 40s and 50s clothing because I'm still a bit afraid of dot patterns. I’m sure they’re not as hard as they look, and I own several of them, but I somehow got it stuck in my head that I’ll never figure them out. Any ideas anyone has as to how they can be simplified would be very helpful. Old sewing instructions just frustrate me. So until I master the dot pattern I don’t think I’ll be posting any of my creations, because pencil skirts and halter tops just aren’t that interesting!

Rebecca

 

[Lauren]

Rebecca,

I know, perforated patterns can be scary! The first time I opened one I was right out of fashion school and thought maybe the pattern had been made wrong! After you get accustomed to the way they work they're not that hard. I made up a quick mock up in illustrator. Maybe Decodoll or some of the other sewers can thing of things to add?

This is a basic bodice (I did it freehand, so don't quote me on actual proportions!)

You can see the line that marks the grainline (the dotted line running the length of the pattern), the shoulder dart, and the waist dart, as well as the pattern piece # (or letter), and notches (old patterns had two on the front bodice, where modern ones have two on the back bodice armhole).

 

[Rebecca D]

Wow, THAT actually makes sense! But it leads to my next two questions(please be patient!), did they ever perforate seam lines, and is there ever any indication of when you should cut on the fold?

I've purchased a few really cute late 40s Simplicity "Printed On" patterns, and, darn it, they're still dot patterns but with a few things printed on them! I guess I need to just get over it and start using them.

Oooh, one last question: what is the difference of between 0 and o on an old perforated pattern?


Thanks a lot for making that mock up, Lauren. This is such a great forum!

Rebecca

 

[decodoll]

Those combination perforated and printed patterns were released as a way to get around McCall's copyright of the completely printed pattern. Which I believe lasted for about 50 years and is why you don't see other companies start to print their patterns until much later. The same with the cryptic directions that some companies provide. For example the ones where it is just a drawing of the whole outfit made up with the pieces numbered. Butterick had a copyright on the step-by-step illustrated instruction sheet.

Most patterns will have an "o" perforation at the corners of the pattern pieces indicating how wide the seam allowance should be as well as have it noted in the instructions. I don't think that "O" and "o" always stand for the same thing. The directions generally will tell you. For example: match o to O or something like that.

Something that might help you and that is a good practice anyway to preserve your old patterns, is to trace them before using. This also may help you visualize what's going on where before you start cutting your fabric. As far as what pieces should be cut on the fold, that info should be on the cutting diagram unless you have a very old pattern that didn't always incude them.

 

[BettyValentine]

I adore my serger. I really don't ever make anything without it. Typically I cut everything out, then serge all the pieces, then I sew them together. (I don't ever serge after it's sewn in case I want to alter it later). My favorite thing about the serger is that it gives me a line for making a really nice, even roll-hem. I just fold the serged bit under twice and press it and then I either machine-stitch over it, or slip-stitch it if I need it invisible. A lot of people love an overlock's roll-hem feature for things like chiffon. (I'm investigating industrials for that. My home machine leaves icky little bits sticking out when you use the pearl-edge. I just hate that, so I always wind up doing mine by hand anyway.)

It's not a sewing machine, though. It can't do a button hole at all, and you don't need a backstitch because a serged edge won't unthread without a lot of persuading. I wouldn't really recommend it for sewing together seams or darts unless you are working with a stretchy spandex. (I work with Spandex a lot. ^_^ It's super-forgiving and makes for the most lazy patterning ever.)

My serger broke awhile ago and it made me crazy doing french-seams. The sewing machine zigzag will work just fine, but I just didn't like the way it looked. (And there's something so calming about running things through the serger.)

You can totally live without it, though. A good sewing machine is vital. I don't really like computerized models with LCDs. Mine's a fully-mechanical Bernina, it makes a lovely button hole. It's not so hot with an invisible zipper, though. (My foot doesn't fit on it, even though Bernina insists that it does.)

Pfaff makes some nice, cheap home sewing models. My first machine was an incredibly loud Pfaff, but it had a pretty decent buttonhole and served me well till I decided I wanted something quieter. (Honestly, I don't really know why I wanted a new one. I think i just fell in love with the butter-like feed of my Bernina.)

BV - and I"d still love to see what you've made! I think pencil skirts are fascinating! ^_^

 

[Rebecca D]

Well shoot, Betty, now you may have talked me back into buying a serger. Can you tell me why you don't like the LCD sewing machine models? Do they break easily or is it that they just don't give you the freedom of a more traditional model?

As for posting photos of my stuff, I've seen some of the stuff you ladies have made and there's no way in the world I'd post my stuff, at least not yet. Let me get better and then I'll show off my clothes!