Indicators of a low quality hat:

[deadlyhandsome]

Beyond critiquing hats today, I'm just wondering what criteria a man in 1940 would have used to differentiate hat quality to make a buying decision? We have a tendency to look at modern materials and modern manufacturing techniques (ie, mass produced) as indicators of lower quality, but in 1940, did men think hats made in 1890 were "higher quality"? Or, in 1940, was it more a function of price and utility where quality, as we think of it today, was much less a consideration?

That’s a fascinating question. I think the styles they are wearing weren’t necessarily available in the decades proceeding them so maybe there wasn’t a direct comparison? Without being able to support it, I think they just bought what they liked best at the price they found acceptable. I doubt that there was much reminiscing about the quality of years gone by. I don’t know how we could actually come to know one way or the other. Thought provoking in any case.

 

[belfastboy]

I would wear that to death! It's a great shape. As you note, there's a lot to be said for a hat you don't have to worry about, but still looks good. Notably, that seems to be easier to find in the Western genre moreso than a fedora style.... I wonder is that because people (at least in the US) tend to wear Westerns as utilitarian hats more often, whereas fedoras and such tend more to the dresswear - and a relatively niche interest at that - by comparison? I do have the general impression that there is a much bigger range of hats and hat qualities available in cultures that are still more "hat culture" than certainly mainstream England is by this point. Australia is notable that way - for the obvious climate-related reasons.




The chipboard of the animal hide world!





It's a funny old term. Immediately communicates a message, of course - "Imitation leather with no animal content but very much like leather in look and feel" ain't so snappy.... But yeah, I always find terms like that amusing. Halal Bacon (which is actually turkey-based) is another one I see commonly in my local area. It's harmless enough most of the time, I don't have an issue with it. It does, however, irritate me greatly when I search for "leather jacket" on eBay and half the returns are 'imitation leather', 'faux leather', or some such variant.




Ha! That is a classic. I'm guessing that is very much about upselling a pleather sweatband.... or perhaps there are people out there who don't understand how the furfelt is obtained?




I'm with you on that. I believe it is important to respect others' ethical choices, but for me I'm fine with my place in the foodchain - as long as I in turn respect nature and only take from it what I reasonably need, while wasting as little as possible. It's one reason I like cow leather so much: at least ideally, that leather is a by-product of the meat industry (as is goat - globally, the most commonly eaten meat), so eat the cow, wear the cow (or goat) works for me.







Interesting one! The many exceptions to this are also interesting. I think this speaks to the wider point you made somewhere at the top of the thread that some things can be indicative of a lower quality hat because they are common on cheaper hats, but their presence alone isn't confirmation of low quality. A lot like the old Fender three-bolt neck design...





FF, FF as those in the MC fraternity might put it!


They do seem to be something that are specific to more utilitarian work hats; I imagine largely because a more delicate straw might be the thing for dresswear in particularly hot weather.

Of course, I've also seen dressier hats (including Summer-weight bowlers) with delicately patterned ventilation, so that's also a fancier alternative to the big eyelets for more breathability in a working hat where you're more likely to be working up a sweat.




It'd be interesting to know to what extent manufacturers followed fashion by making narrower-brimmed, cheaper hats, and to what extent the fashion was directed by cost of production?

When I first began my hat making venture I wanted to bring to market a quality hat (top quality components) that was close in price to a mass produced Stetson or equal. My target market was intended to be those new(ish) to hat wearing and would never have considered a custom hat. Many of my local customers are those folks. Hat wearers but tending towards inexpensive hats. They wear them as that is all that is available to them in the local market. We do have hat shops but they sell cheaper hats as that is where the largest demand exists.

Their upper priced hats are Akubra at around $400 (Canadian $).
When these hat wearers discover that I offer a custom hat for less than that they are thrilled. But without the inexpensive hats available to them they may very well still be ball cap wearers.
With the rising costs it is becoming harder to offer a custom hat at Stetson prices but I am still cheaper than the local hat shop.

Hat wearers will step up to quality if it is made available to them and yes the cheaper hats fill an important niche in introducing folks to hat wearing.

 

[belfastboy]

That’s a fascinating question. I think the styles they are wearing weren’t necessarily available in the decades proceeding them so maybe there wasn’t a direct comparison? Without being able to support it, I think they just bought what they liked best at the price they found acceptable. I doubt that there was much reminiscing about the quality of years gone by. I don’t know how we could actually come to know one way or the other. Thought provoking in any case.

My father grew up dirt poor and worked his up into the middle class. Until he passed away at a very early age we were a solidly, though recent, middle class family living in the suburbs.

Stay at home mother and father earned enough so we lived comfortably. But we were aspirational middle class with middle class tastes. My father wore suits as a salesman but they came from a department store. The middle class department store not the more toney upper class department store. That is where he purchased his wardrobe.....his shoes, shirts, suits and hats there as that is where people like us shopped. (He usually owned two hats his work/dress hat and the ex dress hat worn to the point of relegation to his gardening/chore hat.

Shopping in the middle class department store was related to price points but it was also a case on 'knowing one's place". We were fairly recently removed from poverty and for my father shopping in the up scale store just would not have seemed right.

We were not one of 'those' people. Had my father lived we may have reached those heights where he felt comfortable shopping upper scale but it never came to pass.

 

[Who?]

Since you alluded to “knowing one’s place” word once reached me that my boss had remarked to a third party that I “didn’t seem to be as servile” as most in my position.

Evidently I didn’t know my place.

This was more than 60 years ago, and I haven’t forgotten it. (He’s dead now)

 

[Bushman]

Don’t believe it!

View attachment 235237

I never buy "one size fits all" clothing. It never fits me! Especially hats...

 

[belfastboy]

Since you alluded to “knowing one’s place” word once reached me that my boss had remarked to a third party that I “didn’t seem to be as servile” as most in my position.

Evidently I didn’t know my place.

This was more than 60 years ago, and I haven’t forgotten it. (He’s dead now)

I believe the concept of 'knowing one's place' is very much a part of our British heritage. In the UK and colonies it was an integral aspect of the social order. Downton Abbey was a great cinematic portrayal of it in action. I think our connection here in Canada to the UK has waned greatly in the years after the war. It was still very strong in my parents but with our huge immigration numbers from around the world our emotional connection to Mother England is largely severed.

 

[Bushman]

I think it's important to "know one's place." Only in knowing where you stand in the hierarchy, can you know how much further you have left to climb.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I believe the concept of 'knowing one's place' is very much a part of our British heritage. In the UK and colonies it was an integral aspect of the social order. Downton Abbey was a great cinematic portrayal of it in action. I think our connection here in Canada to the UK has waned greatly in the years after the war. It was still very strong in my parents but with our huge immigration numbers from around the world our emotional connection to Mother England is largely severed.

Clothing, including hats, was also part of a system that reinforced knowing one’s place. Our garb announced our socioeconomic position and reinforced our place in society. Today the wealthy often seem to be ashamed of their wealth and make a point of dressing in hoodies and jeans.

We can mix and match styles as rules and structure are mostly gone. I like the egalitarian nature of our society, but I do miss when people dressed with more thought and care.

 

[Rmccamey]

Fewer activities are "events" these days, thus less attention is given to dress. Two generations ago, a tabernacle singing, a retirement party or a children's play demanded more formal dress and people were glad to do so out of respect. These same activities today are more for entertainment thus making jeans and tee shirts much more the norm.

Clothing, including hats, was also part of a system that reinforced knowing one’s place. Our garb announced our socioeconomic position and reinforced our place in society. Today the wealthy often seem to be ashamed of their wealth and make a point of dressing in hoodies and jeans.

We can mix and match styles as rules and structure are mostly gone. I like the egalitarian nature of our society, but I do miss when people dressed with more thought and care.