Ideal Character / Grain

[Superfluous]

In several recent threads, there have been comments regarding certain leathers have more “character” and grain than others, and the varying preferences among leather jacket patrons. This got me thinking: What amount of character/grain is preferable in a new jacket? Do most folks prefer a lot of character/grain – perhaps as much as possible – or do most folks prefer a middle ground somewhere less than maximum character/grain? Assuming something less than maximum character/grain is desirable, what is the ideal balance? What is the ideal amount of character/grain for a new jacket? I suspect it depends on several factors, including the type of jacket.

So what say you? What amount of character and grain do you prefer in a new jacket? What is the perfect balance for you? Photos speak a thousand words; therefore, please post photos depicting desirable character/grain.

Monitor posted this jacket a couple of days ago in the Flat Head thread:

Now that is some juicy character/grain. Here is another jacket with some heavy character/grain:

Do the above-jackets have the right amount of character/grain? Too much? Not enough?

Sloan just posted this new character-rich jacket a few minutes ago

Here is a jacket with less grain:

What do you prefer? Post photos.

 

[Sloan1874]

Personally, I was striving for a 'dead stock' look with my BTR, but I think there is a fine line where a jacket can have such a heavy grain that it 'wears you', rather than the other way about. Also, there is the question of how it will develop as time passes.
The thing about the flat finish is that it will start to develop patina from the moment you start wearing it, at some point it will catch up with the 'ready worn' look.

 

[Plumbline]

I think it depends on the jacket and the look.

I personally prefer a smooth finish on a cafe racer ... the minimal style and look of the cafe racer I think lend itself to FQHH ( just MHO)

The mid grain type hide is probably best suited to most jackets ... and will age really nicely. The exceptions being M/C jackets and 3/4 length jackets ( again IMHO)

Heavy grained hide is best suited to those looking for that 60 year vintage jacket look - A-2's and opther vintage repros.

I'd rather develop the grain and character myself TBH .. it's part of the break in process as it moulds and wrinkles with wear and usage. It does. however, take a llloooonnngggg time especially with CXL FQHH. I think it's why I prefer steerhide .. in my experience it ages easier and develops grain and character faster.

I definately think there's a case, place and demand for all types from the most beaten up and creased 60 year old looking hides to the new flat smooth and clean look of CXL FQHH. Just don't supply me a jacket which has been artificially "vintaged" unless it's been done by being worn for 30 odd years

 

[nick123]

I'd happily take a seriously grained new jacket OR a smooth one. But I'm under the impression that most vintage jackets' leather was smoother from the get-go.

 

[Sloan1874]

If I only had to have one jacket, I'd go smooth, but if you've got a couple already, one with some extra character is a good addition in terms of look and feel.

 

[Monitor]

Way I look at it, I'm perfectly okay with either smooth or grainy leather as long as it looks like leather. I've owned both smooth jackets and jackets that were very grainy, that looked completely fake. That's the thing that attracts me to, say, BK or Aero jackets, there's really no doubt whatsoever they're made from leather - and a really beautiful leather, that's full of character from the get go, without being artificially distressed. Because, believe me, I've had people asking me if my LL or Schott HH was a real leather, and I'd rather have none of that again.

To answer your question, I do prefer at least some grain and character on my new jackets as I'm not too fond of a brand new look, which my be the case with smooth leathers, but, same as others, I'd rather wear my jacket out by myself.

Odd thing but I've seen quite a few people on Schott forum and Styleforum, insisting on getting their Perfectos in HH completely smooth and shiny, without any wrinkles or grain, because they preferred the metallic look of the jacket.

 

[Sloan1874]

What about that eBay oddity, the 'new' jacket made from old leather? I'm not sure whether its whole original hides or an old larger jacket broken down and re-cut to make a new one.

 

[Superfluous]

I think there is a fine line where a jacket can have such a heavy grain that it 'wears you', rather than the other way about.

Well stated.

But I'm under the impression that most vintage jackets' leather was smoother from the get-go.

Interesting. Does anyone have photos of new, unworn, original jackets from the 30s-60s?

 

[devilish]

A very subjective subject. Personally the 'as long as it looks like leather' statement from Monitor is a good starting point. I also feel that grain and patina (or wear) are for the most part different things. I like a little bit of natural graining to the leather as a starting point and then the rest should be down to how I wear the jacket.
I recently bought the GW A-1 that was made of pre-washed cape skin. I wanted a GW A-1 and the price was too good to pass up. The leather was right on the borderline of my personal tastes as far as grain etc. was concerned though. Strangely though, now I'm wearing the jacket, the leather is actually showing almost a reverse pattern. It is becoming smoother on the high points and creases and in the end I feel it will end up having a pleasing patina.

Edit: Woohoo 100 posts! Haha.

 

[Fanch]

How about both smooth and grainy. My brown FQHH Aero Teamster and mahogany veg tanned horsehide G&B "historic" A-2 are smooth, whereas my black goatskin Aero Maxwell and brown goatskin Aero Pioneer both have lots of grain, and my MWHH Aero Mulligan is, I guess, somewhere in between. Truth be known, I like all of them and am hard pressed to say that I prefer one over the other. As they say "variety is the spice of life."

 

[Seb Lucas]

I'm more concerned with the pattern and fit.

 

[Sloan1874]

I agree completely, fit and pattern first and foremost. Otherwise, no matter how beautiful the grain and colour is, it'll look nothing. But once you've got the foundations right, I think it's the hide that takes it from a nice jacket to something special.

 

[Superfluous]

^ What he said

 

[Sloan1874]

If it wasn't of importance, then the likes of Aero, ELC, BK and GW would not be constantly looking for and protecting the sources of the best and most attractive leathers possible.

 

[Plumbline]

Craig,

I think some already try to do his as much as possible by ....

1. Not disclosing sources of hide
2. Asking tanneries for exclusivity on particular hides / colours
3. Working with tanneries to develop "exclusive" hides

seems like sensible business practice if you ask me ...... if the hide gives you a distinctive advanatage in the market why wouldn't you wish to protect it as much as possible. So long as it's not illegal or anti-competitive.

 

[Sloan1874]

Absolutely. Beyond Horween and Shinki, I think most people would be hard pressed to name an actual tannery, and I reckon most makers like it that way.

 

[Otter]

Absolutely. Beyond Horween and Shinki, I think most people would be hard pressed to name an actual tannery, and I reckon most makers like it that way.

Duckla Pumpherston FC and Tannery .

 

[Sloan1874]

Blimey, that's well-remembered. For the uninitiated, this is the reference: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dukla_Pumpherston

 

[Benny Holiday]

The thing about the flat finish is that it will start to develop patina from the moment you start wearing it, at some point it will catch up with the 'ready worn' look.

My Aero halfbelt is 9 years old now. It was all new and smooth out of the box, and the fun for me has been wearing it and letting the character develop in the leather with each new adventure. I've dragged it across Europe and Australia and it's been shown no favours. I think Craig has summed up the way I feel perfectly with the above statement.

 

[CBI]

My 2 cents - the more grainy and beaten up the better - these are all "work" clothes and look best when very well-worn. to each his/her own...........