How To Sew brace buttons

[Aoresteen]

I need to move a few brace buttons and I do not mind doing it myself. I can't find specific instructions on how to do it (lots of generic stuff no details on the web).

1. What is the proper spacing between a pair of brace buttons? 4" is what most my pants have in the rear; the side varry greatly.

2. What is the proper placement for the the braces in the front?

3. What type thread is used to attach the buttons?

4. How exactly do you sew the button onto the inner waitsband without going through the outside of the pants? Is a special needle used?


Thanks!

Tony

 

[stevew443]

I have been sewing my suspender buttons with a 3 inch spacing. The inner most front buttons I place directly over the inner most pleat (90% of my pants are pleated) and the rear buttons I space at 1 1/2 inches from the center seam. I wear the tabs to my suspenders on the outside so the buttons show, so I don't mind going through the inner waist band. I just like the style of having exposed buttons.

 

[Shangas]

I use belt-loops as a guide. usually, the two outer front loops for the two sets of front buttons, and the rear single loop (or rear pair of loops, as the case may be), for the back buttons. Always sewn on the inside of the waistband.

The way I see it, if you're wearing a waistcoat with braces, nobody'll ever see the thread. But if you aren't, then there's usually a small flap of fabric inside the waist of the trousers (leftover from the seam-allowance, I believe). Just sew the buttons onto that. It'll keep them inside the pants, and keep the thread from appearin' on the outside.

I use ordinary cotton thread for sewing my buttons on. Most people suggest sewing the buttons in an "H" pattern, instead of an "X" pattern, to stop the thread from tangling, rubbing and wearing out prematurely.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

1) behind the first pleat (closest to the fly) on the front, 2) in line with the sideseam, 3) on the rear equal spacing from the rear seam on either side. I usually put them the same distance from the rear seam as the first pleat is from the fly.

 

[herringbonekid]

most Brit trousers have brace buttons on the outside and no belt loops. most US trousers have them on the inside but that seems to be because belt loops are more common in the US.

most waist lining isn't strong enough to take brace buttons sewn only to it and the button should be sewn through the interlining of the waistband (usually some sort of linen canvas)... if you want the buttons on the inside.

if you want the buttons on the outside you can sew through all layers, which is easier to do and ultimately stronger. or you can just catch the interlining if you don't like to see thread visible on the waist lining.
the decision, as they say, is your's.

 

[herringbonekid]

3. What type thread is used to attach the buttons?

4. How exactly do you sew the button onto the inner waitsband without going through the outside of the pants? Is a special needle used?

3. you need strong thread such as Gutermann top stitch.

4. you have to just 'snag' the interlining then pivot the needle out. it's a bit fiddly.

 

[Qirrel]

A method that does not depend on pleats, belt loops etc.:
First button 1/2" closer to the front edge than half way between the front edge and sideseam. Second button about 3" from it (towards the sideseam).

 

[Aoresteen]

Thanks all!

 

[Aoresteen]

herringbonekid,

Thanks for the thread reccomendation. I found the Gutermann Top Stich at my Local Joann Fabrics store, on sale at 90 cents a spool. Bought black, white, and navy thred.

http://www.joann.com/gutermann-top-stitch-heavy-duty-thread-33-yards-many-colors/prd48893/

 

[Stanley Doble]

For sewing thru the inner layer of cloth only you could try a curved needle. If a local sewing store does not have them (they should) they can be found at an upholstery supply shop.