How NOT to stretch a hat

[zetwal]

I just tried to stretch a hat for the first time and broke the sweatband on an old Borsalino that I hadn't worn in a very long time. I don't doubt that the band may have been a bit dried out.

Other than crank it too much, What did I do wrong? The expander that I used is a good one and well tapered. Should I have prepared the leather by soaking it in water or applying conditioner or something? What's the right way to do this? It's not that big a deal in this instance but I'd like to do better next time! E

 

[Wolfmanjack]

Many of us here use Lexol to reduce the chances of breaking the sweat when stretching. Do a FL search on "Lexol" and you'll find lots of suggestions on how to use it.

 

[zetwal]

Thanks Wolfman!

 

[filfoster]

Hat Expansion or head shrink?

What is the practical limit that a good felt hat can be enlarged? With our without resewing the band?

 

[Lefty]

The general consensus seems to be that it's one size (i.e., 7 3/8 to 7 1/2). However, they often shrink back down. I'm done with stretching to achieve size. Unless it's a hat that I know fits (by prior wearing), stretching and restretching, worrying about snapping the leather, and knowing that the hat is just going to find its way back to the smaller size is not worth it to me.

Zetwal, take it slow. I don't know how much you cranked the stretcher or for how long, but it should be stretched a little, allowing it to sit overnight with the stretcher in place, repeating as necessary.

 

[feltfan]

The general consensus seems to be that it's one size (i.e., 7 3/8 to 7 1/2). However, they often shrink back down. I'm done with stretching to achieve size. Unless it's a hat that I know fits (by prior wearing), stretching and restretching, worrying about snapping the leather, and knowing that the hat is just going to find its way back to the smaller size is not worth it to me.

To be clear, Lefty says, "they often shrink back down". Often they don't. It depends on the hat.

There are quite a few posts on how to use Lexol to be found
on this site. My condolences on your Borsalino sweatband.
Those corrugated sweat guards in the front of most vintage
Borsalino sweats appear to be irreplacable (to say nothing of
the vintage impressions in the leather).

 

[zetwal]

Yes the hat was originally my size but had tightened up quite a bit. I didn't feel it break as I tightened the screw but when I checked the next day to see what if anything had been accomplished over night my heart sank ... E

 

[jamespowers]

What is the practical limit that a good felt hat can be enlarged? With our without resewing the band?

Ideally, with the right equipment (a heated hat stretcher for one) you can up it a few sizes but you have to be careful when doing this. The hat and sweatband condition have to be taken into account as well.
I even went a little out on a limp just to play with a junk tweed hat I had. I threw it in the washing machine becaquse it was dirty as heck. :eusa_doh:
Some of the threads frayed but it was a lot cleaner and you can always trim the threads. It then placed on a heated hat stretcher to dry over night. Amazingly, it went from a 6 7/8 to a 7 5/8 doing it this way. No, I didn't rip the tweed or pop any stitches. The material sweatband is pretty well shot but it was that way after washing it anyway.
Doing this to a felt hat is impossible. I wish it was but you would lose a lot of the brim width and surely use the sweatband. Three sizes is really my limit if I stretch the envelope.
A competent hatter could easily do the same with better results than I have ever achieved. Perhaps the moral of that story is that you should take it to a hatter and have it done right the first time.

 

[jamespowers]

Yes the hat was originally my size but had tightened up quite a bit. I didn't feel it break as I tightened the screw but when I checked the next day to see what if anything had been accomplished over night my heart sank ... E

Lexol helps the sweatband to stretch a bit without breaking. Steam will relax the felt to stretch a bit as well.

 

[zetwal]

Do you apply Lexol to the inside of the sweatband or to the surface that makes contact with the skin? or both? E

 

[jamespowers]

Do you apply Lexol to the inside of the sweatband or to the surface that makes contact with the skin? or both? E

You can do both but apply it to the inside of the sweatband for the best results first. Turn out the sweatband and then apply it being careful not to get it on the felt. It will absorb the lexol fairly well if it is dry. If it absorbs it really fast then apply a second coat and let it dry. I usually apply two just to be safe.

 

[shortbow]

Just a note of caution here, from my own experience. Sometimes when turning out the sweatband on older hats, the leather will tear in the process. Prudence and care are required. Luck to ya.

 

[jamespowers]

Just a note of caution here, from my own experience. Sometimes when turning out the sweatband on older hats, the leather will tear in the process. Prudence and care are required. Luck to ya.

Good point. This should be done carefully or not at all if the sweatband is too brittle. Then again, if the sweatband is too brittle then it wouldn't be a good idea to stretch it in the first place.

 

[PabloElFlamenco]

Hi Zetwal,
Undoubtedly, one of my very best hats is the Stetson 100. I bought it from the (UK!) eBay at a very good price, but it was 6-7/8, whereas my size is 7-1/8. For me to wear it, stretching would then be necessary. I would not have bought the hat if I hadn't read (guess in which forum? ) that, yes, there appears to be general concensus that a hat may be stretched by "2 sizes".
To have the hat stretched (and cleaned, and the musty smell removed...), I -again- followed concensus on that (secret) forum and sent the hat all the way from Belgium to Chicago, to Optimo. Ensued some relatively minor correspondance (i.e. collecting the price offer), wherein Optimo strongly recommended the original leather sweatband be replaced by a new one. This recommendation may, of course, be viewed as an Optimo ploy to reduce the risk of things going wrong. I agreed, and the hat came back fitting like a glove and with a perfect new sweatband (and the old sweat was returned to me in perfect shape...).
So, two things: yes, it is quite possible to make a hat grow two sizes. But it has to be done correctly: using a full crown stretcher, not the kind that stretches only the sweatband area: that causes tapering (of the crown). And, yes, you need to replace the sweatband.
BTW, Lexol is fine, preventively, on new sweatbands. But I have personally experienced that old, apparently perfect, sweatbands tend to tear (at the stitched seams) after having applied Lexol conditioner.
My 2 cents.
Paul

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Another one bites the dust. shakeshead

bk

 

[zetwal]

Thanks again to you all for sharing your experiences and insight. E

 

[Dewhurst]

I'm done with stretching to achieve size.

Same here! Due to the fact that I am not a perfect size, I have formed a habit of getting 1/8th size larger and simply pulling the size ever so slightly down through stuffing the sweatband.

The days of getting a hat so perfect that the smallest amount of shrink will make it unwearable are over for me.

 

[avedwards]

I have a modern fedora hat. When I bought it the hat fitted perfectly. Over time, it has shrunk a little bit (about 1-2 European sizes, the hat was from Germany). Is there any simple way to stretch it, maybe by putting it on top of my much bigger homburg (I don't care if the latter is ruined)?

 

[zetwal]

I did get the Lexol and it appears to be really great stuff. At the end of the day I may or may not use it on hat bands for the purpose described here. But I did treat some western boots to good effect. I think I may end up liking Lexol more than the Bick that I was using before. Thanks for the tip -

 

[jamespowers]

I did get the Lexol and it appears to be really great stuff. At the end of the day I may or may not use it on hat bands for the purpose described here. But I did treat some western boots to good effect. I think I may end up liking Lexol more than the Bick that I was using before. Thanks for the tip -

That is the other thing I use it for.