Help with a Thedi Jacket

[BroncoGuy]

After a ton of research over the last few weeks, I’ve decided on a thedi jacket for a Cafe racer. Here is the jacket I’m eyeing https://thedi-leathers.com/product/mtc-127947/ . It’s pretty basic as far as a thedi goes, but I’m a minimalist, I only want to own 1 leather jacket, and it seems very versatile, plus the fit doesn’t appear as tight as his other cafe style jackets. Also, I plan on getting a button collar instead of the belted collar. Anyway, I have a few questions.

1) I actually like the leather that’s pictured, especially the “stacking”. Has anyone ever heard of kingdom leather that can comment on quality? Also, any other recommendations for a black leather you think this jacket would look good in?

2) The back has elastic panels. I know that’s not popular here. I’m conflicted on the look, and feel if your spending lots of money on a leather jacket, it shouldn’t have plastic. Does anyone have any thoughts on the functionality of the elastic panel as far as movement and fit? Also, will the durability of the elastic fail long before the life of the leather?

3) Any other advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[AeroFan_07]

If based in the US/North America - consider reaching out to Carrie at Thurston Brothers and do the Fit Jacket process. This will take out a lot of guesswork as well as give you a chance to handle one in person.

I cannot speak to actual Thedi experance, as I have not owned/handled one. They really are looking nice these days.

 

[Marc mndt]

Also, will the durability of the elastic fail long before the life of the leather?

This is a 75 year old jacket with gathered/elastic sides. Still going strong.

 

[Guppy]

Thedi doesn't do any bad leather. Whatever he's putting their name on, you can rest assured it is good stuff.

I'd prefer to avoid elastic, but it's done. It will not last as long as the leather will, but whether it will last as long as you need it to is another matter. If it wears out and the leather is still good, you can get it repaired by someone who knows what they're doing.

 

[BroncoGuy]

If based in the US/North America - consider reaching out to Carrie at Thurston Brothers and do the Fit Jacket process. This will take out a lot of guesswork as well as give you a chance to handle one in person.

I cannot speak to actual Thedi experance, as I have not owned/handled one. They really are looking nice these days.

thanks for the tip. I was reading another thread about thedi’s new website and someone mentioned they recommended going through Thedi instead because he’s very good at getting the fit right. Also, the jacket I want isn’t stocked with thurston and I don’t think trying on other models would help.

 

[BroncoGuy]

This is a 75 year old jacket with gathered/elastic sides. Still going strong.

View attachment 369364 View attachment 369365

Thanks for the pic!

 

[ton312]

I’m a huge fan of elastic when used as Marc has shown above. I have two jackets that are similar. The most aggressive of which can be seen on this 50’s era Monarch:

The large vertical elastic panels are another story. While they do an amazing job of creating a very snug fit, imho they look positively dreadful. Very 80’s era Hein Gericke type design element. I had a Bates jacket with this sort of elastic panel. I couldn’t get rid of it fast enough. To me those panels are all function, no form. A Thedi jacket should be tilted the other way I think.

 

[torfjord]

After a ton of research over the last few weeks, I’ve decided on a thedi jacket for a Cafe racer. Here is the jacket I’m eyeing https://thedi-leathers.com/product/mtc-127947/ . It’s pretty basic as far as a thedi goes, but I’m a minimalist, I only want to own 1 leather jacket, and it seems very versatile, plus the fit doesn’t appear as tight as his other cafe style jackets. Also, I plan on getting a button collar instead of the belted collar. Anyway, I have a few questions.

1) I actually like the leather that’s pictured, especially the “stacking”. Has anyone ever heard of kingdom leather that can comment on quality? Also, any other recommendations for a black leather you think this jacket would look good in?

2) The back has elastic panels. I know that’s not popular here. I’m conflicted on the look, and feel if your spending lots of money on a leather jacket, it shouldn’t have plastic. Does anyone have any thoughts on the functionality of the elastic panel as far as movement and fit? Also, will the durability of the elastic fail long before the life of the leather?

3) Any other advice would be greatly appreciated!

1. I haven't seen that leather in person, but if Thedi uses it it's going to be top tier stuff.

2. If you are conflicted on the look of the side panels and the collar, why don't you go with another of their cafe racers?

 

[BroncoGuy]

1. I haven't seen that leather in person, but if Thedi uses it it's going to be top tier stuff.

2. If you are conflicted on the look of the side panels and the collar, why don't you go with another of their cafe racers?

I just like that jackets fit and style, I would probably just request an all leather back instead of elastic.

 

[BroncoGuy]

I’m a huge fan of elastic when used as Marc has shown above. I have two jackets that are similar. The most aggressive of which can be seen on this 50’s era Monarch:
View attachment 369391 View attachment 369392

The large vertical elastic panels are another story. While they do an amazing job of creating a very snug fit, imho they look positively dreadful. Very 80’s era Hein Gericke type design element. I had a Bates jacket with this sort of elastic panel. I couldn’t get rid of it fast enough. To me those panels are all function, no form. A Thedi jacket should be tilted the other way I think.

thanks for the reply. So if, I have him do an all leather back, would the jacket fit a lot looser? Or do you think it would hardly be noticeable without elastic?

 

[Kuro]

I placed an order directly with Theodoros at the Beginning of August for a leather CR.

Unless you don't like taking measurements and photos of yourself, the order was painless, polite and just plain good.

Also, I made several specific custom requests on the pattern I choose, and he accepted every request I made. So I would not be surprised if he would make you the jacket without the elastic panels, you just have to ask.

Now, as for the elastic panels, I have specific motorcycle leather jackets by Dainese that utilize this same style of elastic leather panels. They are wonderful. But a good armored leather jacket or jumpsuit should fit you well and move with you and stay fitted as you don't want that armor moving around while you are sliding on asphalt, you want it to stay in place and protect you. So, elastic panels work great in a piece that is all function. Same with pants with elastic panels behind the knees etc.

If you are just wearing the jacket as a fashion piece, you obviously don't need them, unless you want that jacket to hug you AND move with you when you have is zipped up.

 

[ton312]

thanks for the reply. So if, I have him do an all leather back, would the jacket fit a lot looser? Or do you think it would hardly be noticeable without elastic?

That would be a great question for Theo. In this case he’d likely need your dimensions and fit preference.

 

[BroncoGuy]

I placed an order directly with Theodoros at the Beginning of August for a leather CR.

Unless you don't like taking measurements and photos of yourself, the order was painless, polite and just plain good.

Also, I made several specific custom requests on the pattern I choose, and he accepted every request I made. So I would not be surprised if he would make you the jacket without the elastic panels, you just have to ask.

Now, as for the elastic panels, I have specific motorcycle leather jackets by Dainese that utilize this same style of elastic leather panels. They are wonderful. But a good armored leather jacket or jumpsuit should fit you well and move with you and stay fitted as you don't want that armor moving around while you are sliding on asphalt, you want it to stay in place and protect you. So, elastic panels work great in a piece that is all function. Same with pants with elastic panels behind the knees etc.

If you are just wearing the jacket as a fashion piece, you obviously don't need them, unless you want that jacket to hug you AND move with you when you have is zipped up.

Awesome, thanks for the info. I did make contact with Thedi already, I just wanted to gather as much info and opinions as possible in case others have already made mistakes in the process. What you added is very helpful as I’m not a rider.

What style jacket and in what leather did you order?

 

[Kuro]

Awesome, thanks for the info. I did make contact with Thedi already, I just wanted to gather as much info and opinions as possible in case others have already made mistakes in the process. What you added is very helpful as I’m not a rider.

What style jacket and in what leather did you order?

One more, always one more...

That is a link above to the thread post that goes over my specific order.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I think those long elastic looking back panels are actually tooled leather and not elastic.

As for elastics there is nothing wrong with them for side cinch instead of the old brass buckle. As long as they are not constantly activated/stretched they will last a lifetime. I prefer the elastic side cinch because it's simpler and doesn't scratch the car seats.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

I think you got the right frame of mind. If you really think you're going to stick to just one jacket, I'd suggest going with a "basic" design. The elastic or gusset or action back or footballs, etc. etc. have purpose and flare but in my opinion, give the jacket a certain look/style. Not saying in a bad way, just saying it won't be as evergreen as a basic racer (i.e. a Buco style) or a half belt or just a simple straight zip like a Highwayman. So if you want the jacket to hold up over however many next decades, I think it's got to be something classic and basic that will give you a steady anchor. Doesn't mean it has to be boring either. Thedi is going to give you some cool hardware, pattern, etc. Of course, you could go stylized too (nothing wrong with that), but then you're locked in if you're confident you're going to stick to just one jacket. Good luck with that btw

 

[BroncoGuy]

Thought I would just update my post, for anyone else researching the forum about Theodoros’ leathers. I received 3 sample leathers from Theodoros: Black Kingdom Cowhide, Black Buffalo and Black Bruciato Horsehide.

Kingdom Cowhide
Theodoros told me this leather is 1/2 veg tanned. It was the stiffest of them all and also the thickest. It has the least amount of grain character in my opinion, it is very flat. I decided I wanted a 100% Veg tan leather for my jacket so I eliminated this choice. In my water test it eventually absorbed the water and left a spot.

Black Buffalo
This leather was the thinnest of the 3. It also felt very malleable/moldable in my opinion. I also liked the grain a lot. In my water test it eventually absorbed the water and left a spot. I ended up choosing this leather. He charges an extra 60Eur for this hide.

Black Bruciato
This leather is “tea core.” I had a hard time deciding between this leather and the Buffalo. This grain has the most character, and it is almost as thick as the kingdom cowhide. It has very similar characteristics to the Buffalo as far as being very supple, it was not stiff at all. It was the only one that didn’t absorb the water drop completely, however when I flipped it over there was a water mark on the back side but no mark on the grain. In the end I chose Buffalo because I’ve kind of lost interest in the tea core concept and just want my jacket to remain a constant color. He charges an extra 200Eur for this hide.

see all pics below. So far it’s been a great experience working with Theodoros.

 

[handymike]

Thedi’s buffalo looks awesome!

 

[Kuro]

Thought I would just update my post, for anyone else researching the forum about Theodoros’ leathers. I received 3 sample leathers from Theodoros: Black Kingdom Cowhide, Black Buffalo and Black Bruciato Horsehide.

Kingdom Cowhide
Theodoros told me this leather is 1/2 veg tanned. It was the stiffest of them all and also the thickest. It has the least amount of grain character in my opinion, it is very flat. I decided I wanted a 100% Veg tan leather for my jacket so I eliminated this choice. In my water test it eventually absorbed the water and left a spot.

Black Buffalo
This leather was the thinnest of the 3. It also felt very malleable/moldable in my opinion. I also liked the grain a lot. In my water test it eventually absorbed the water and left a spot. I ended up choosing this leather. He charges an extra 60Eur for this hide.

Black Bruciato
This leather is “tea core.” I had a hard time deciding between this leather and the Buffalo. This grain has the most character, and it is almost as thick as the kingdom cowhide. It has very similar characteristics to the Buffalo as far as being very supple, it was not stiff at all. It was the only one that didn’t absorb the water drop completely, however when I flipped it over there was a water mark on the back side but no mark on the grain. In the end I chose Buffalo because I’ve kind of lost interest in the tea core concept and just want my jacket to remain a constant color. He charges an extra 200Eur for this hide.

see all pics below. So far it’s been a great experience working with Theodoros.

This is great information! Thanks for sharing. I probably should ask WHAT leather was selected for my jacket order, all I know was that I agreed to black HH 1.1 to 1.2mm thick. I too enjoyed all my correspondence with Theodoros.

 

[BroncoGuy]

This is great information! Thanks for sharing. I probably should ask WHAT leather was selected for my jacket order, all I know was that I agreed to black HH 1.1 to 1.2mm thick. I too enjoyed all my correspondence with Theodoros.

Yours is the ranger Italian Horsehide. I didn’t ask for a sample of that one, but it is a nice looking leather