Edward
Bartender
- Messages
- 25,081
- Location
- London, UK
I wouldn't attempt to speak to quality of these non-US Schott models not having handled them, but the design certainly looks off on the one in the OP. They've obviously significantly elongated whatever original halfbelt style they've based this one on. That wouldn't necessarily on its own be so off (a lot of folks want a longer jacket these days, and they certainly existed back when), but they also seem to have lowered the 'belt' panel itself significantly below the waistline, which looks really 'off' to me.
It was always going to be inevitable as prices rise that Schott would bring in a cheaper, "offshore", line. My local Schott dealer is looking £900 now for a 618, which, irrespective of which way ones opinions run on the value of the US made jacket represents a very steep price rise in the last fifteen years, significantly ahead of inflation. As Schott has expanded increasingly into the mainstream fashion market, there's a lot of room for a lower price band option. Outside the US at least, the "Made in USA" tag doesn't necessarily have the same cachet it perhaps once did to outweigh a significant price saving. I would agree, however, that prominently displaying the US flag on a product that was traditionally US made, without sufficient prominence for the actual place of manufacture label is questionable, and certainly could be seen as dishonest. It's an approach I've seen on many things over the years, from clothes to musical equipment ("Mosrite of California" is a wholly Japanesae owned business with no connection at all to the original Semi Moseley company). It's far from uncommon for British-owned brands such as Marshall, Dyson, and many others to push their "British Design" along with the price tag but perhaps be much quieter about the location of their outsourced manufacture. Simple marketing in large part, but it does strike me as morally dubious at least if it gives the consumer the impression that they are paying for a higher grade of product than they think they are getting.
It will be interesting to see what happens as the EU moves towards requiring clearer origin labelling for consumer protection. Currently, such labelling is used only to satisfy import and tax rules, which is why they can get away with a big flag on the inside collar and a tiny, almost hidden label with the real "Made in X". Whether that line is followed elsewhere, including the UK, may be another matter (though obviously anything intended for the EU market will be required to follow their rules).
It strikes me that this will also be of interest to the producers of replica military jackets. Most of us - I think - are perfectly happy to have 'accurate' labels in our halfbelts, though it would be a shame if an otherwise sensible product origin labelling law meant that the likes of our favourite manufacturers of WW2 repop flying jackets were prevented from taking them to the level of accuracy of having correct labels.
