Help identifying a vintage horsehide flight jacket

[Motorbass]

I just acquired this vintage brown/grey-ish flight jacket (if that's what it is). I have no clue about the age or the maker. There is just one small label stating that it is: "Genuine Top Grain Front Quarter Horsehide". This label looks similar to the ones used by vintage Sears and Hercules Jackets. Also the pocket construction looks similar to old Sears, Hercules. There are no labels hidden in the pockets. At some point somebody sprayed or painted the word "WAKA" underneath the label. No idea if this is supposed to be a name or a unit. In any case my guess is that this is a civilian jacket and not a military jacket, but I could be wrong. Anyone has an idea which maker and year this could be? I love the wonderful patina this jacket has. Here are some images, including fitting:

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[HoosierDaddy]

Well, it is civilian not military. Have no idea who made it though...

 

[Motorbass]

Well, it is civilian not military. Have no idea who made it though...

Yes, I had that suspicion too. What I figured out in the meantime is that the Talon zippers are most likely mid to late 1940ies.

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[tmitchell59]

This jacket could have a Hercules, Windward, Sportclad label. Jacket is from the 40s by that Talon zipper pull. The zipper stop probably has Talon written down the center?

Styles like this were fairly widespread among labels. Unaffiliated stores also carried "un-labeled" jackets like this one. The zippered pocket is unusual.

Check the zipper stop.

Nice looking jacket!

 

[Motorbass]

This jacket could have a Hercules, Windward, Sportclad label. Jacket is from the 40s by that Talon zipper pull. The zipper stop probably has Talon written down the center?

Styles like this were fairly widespread among labels. Unaffiliated stores also carried "un-labeled" jackets like this one. The zippered pocket is unusual.

Check the zipper stop.

Nice looking jacket!

Yes @tmitchell59 the stop box has Talon inscribed on it. What I have not seen yet is the curved Talon logo on the zipper of the breast pocket.

PS.: love your YouTube videos!

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[tmitchell59]

Yes, very much mid 40s. I don't look that closely at the pocket zippers. I will have to start looking.

There were some big time leather manufactures back in the day. The catalogs typically showed several leather jacket styles each year. A lot of leather jackets were made and sold under a ton of different Store/Brand labels.

Some of the makers are known. Rough Wear Clothing, Appalachian, Monarch, variety of West Coast makers. Others I'm not thinking of. There were smaller makers all through the country, more regional.

It is a subject that interest me, but few others.

PS.: love your YouTube videos!

Thank you.

 

[Peacoat]

While I am not a fan of the dried out patina look, I am a fan of heavy graining. This jacket has it. If the hide feels dry, and it looks as though it might, an application of Pecard will give it the conditioning it needs.

You did well with this one. A fine old jacket with plenty of life left in it, and a very good fit. Congratulations.

 

[Motorbass]

While I am not a fan of the dried out patina look, I am a fan of heavy graining. This jacket has it. If the hide feels dry, and it looks as though it might, an application of Pecard will give it the conditioning it needs.

You did well with this one. A fine old jacket with plenty of life left in it, and a very good fit. Congratulations.

Thanks! Just a quick question: cleaning with saddle soap before Pecard? Yay or Nay?

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[willyto]

Thanks! Just a quick question: cleaning with saddle soap before Pecard? Yay or Nay?

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I would use something like Lexol Deep Cleaner which cleans leather really well (Dirt, dust and grime) and then when it dries use your regular conditioner. Saddle soap can be harsh on leather and stitching, at least that's what I've been reading and been told many times.

 

[handymike]

If you want to restore the brown color a bit, try testing Dr. jackson's Hide Rejuvenator. I use it before Pecards on jackets in this condition.

 

[Motorbass]

If you want to restore the brown color a bit, try testing Dr. jackson's Hide Rejuvenator. I use it before Pecards on jackets in this condition.

Does this make the color darker?

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[handymike]

Yes, it brings back more of the original color than Pecards. I tend to use both on old jackets. Go easy though, too much conditioner can be another problem.

 

[willyto]

Yes, it brings back more of the original color than Pecards. I tend to use both on old jackets. Go easy though, too much conditioner can be another problem.

Definitely. Always better to apply 2 thin layers if needed. Until the conditioner is fully absorve and dry I wouldn't apply more and that's only if the leather feels dry still after that.

 

[Peacoat]

If you are going to clean it, and I'm not saying you should, I agree with @willyto that Lexol Cleaner in the orange container is a good bet. I have never used Dr. Jackson's Hide Rejuvenator, but agree with @handymike that it might do the trick on this jacket. Let dry between applications of everything and then apply a thin coat of Pecard. If it still feels dry, try another thin coat. When it has had enough Pecard, the jacket should be supple once again.

I would like to see it after you have completed the rejuvenating process. I really like this jacket.