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Hat shopping expedition to San Fancisco (long)

stinker

New in Town
Messages
15
Location
Dallas, Texas
I was delighted to find the Fedora Lounge and really enjoy reading all the hat news and views. It will definitely stay on my browsing list. Following is a long post detailing my recent hat shopping expedition to San Francisco.

I'm in native Texan in Dallas where being a hat affectianado is tough, but, has it's rewards. With few exceptions, there is little opportunity to shop for nice dress hats around here. Peters Brothers in Ft. Worth has a few dress hats, but, mostly cowboy stuff. I think they have been in the same location downtown since the 1915 or so. The Resistol plant in Garland is nearby, but, I haven't found much there. Probably should stop by more often.

Most of my hats are from the west coast... several shops in the San Francisco Bay Area plus Bernie Utz in Seattle. After a two year hiatus. I recently went to San Francisco on a 4-day hat buying binge and bought an absurd number of hats. I'm not disclosing how many, but, I held it down to the "low two digits". The Bay Area has the best selection of hat shops I have found.

The Hat Guys in downtown Oakland is an all time favorite of mine... heck of a hat shopping experience. I had not been there for two years, but, they recognized me as soon as I walked in. They have seasonal clearance sales and send out postcards announcing 25 to 35 percent off for shoppers. I missed the sale period, but, took the postcards with me and after a little jiving, they were nice enuf to extend me the discount on straws. Spent two days there browsing and buying hats... nice ones! A dark brown Biltmore Royal felt and a n-i-c-e Puerto Fino fine straw are worthy of mention.

Berkeley Hat Shop is just outside the UCLA Berkeley campus on Telephone Road. They carry a wide variety of styles there as you might imagine with Berkeley clientele. Hey... what do you expect outside the gates of Berzerkley? Anyhow, they likewise recognized me as soon as I walked in... maybe there is a message there! I usually shop for utility grade hats at Berkeley as that is mostly what they stock. Heck of an experience shopping for hats in Berkeley just before Halloween! Strange folks with strange ideas about dressing up strangely for Halloween! I mean R_E_A_L_L_Y strange! They keep a nice supply of hat bands there and I picked up five while there. Berkeley has about the best prices I've found in the area so I always browse there first before looking elsewhere. Ended up buying three felts from them.

Then I headed over to the Mission District of San Francisco to a couple of new shops I got a lead on but had not previously shopped. Bought a real nice light Bailey beige straw with a C crown and very nice wide brim at the place on Valencia. Then over to another shop on Mission Street that had a lot of pimp hats and clothes. Even though I'm not a pimp, I found a really nice Stacy Adams blue (very) felt with a nice blue/brown fabic hat band. It is an unusual color, but, very distinctive when worn with the right clothes. They had a suit and vest that matched the hat and band, however as aforesaid, I am not a pimp. I was tempted though!

And on Friday, I finally got in to the Top Hatter shop in San Leandro just south of Oakland. I'd been there twice before and they were closed EVERY time!! I'll have to say it was worth the effort, though!! Top Hatters is owned and operated by the same couple since the 1950's. They are elderly and keep the door locked (rough neighborhood south of Oakland Colesium). The building is absolutely bizarre in layout and construction. And EVERY and I mean EVERY room (and closets and hallways) is STUFFED with men's and women's hats! Only one lane to walk through the halls and most of the rooms. Outrageous snooping thru closets and little rooms nestled away. They no longer do hat blocking, but, all the equipment is still there... lots of it! Many, many hats to choose from. All are very neatly stacked with plastic sheets between them and every stack has a hand written label which shows current inventory on sizes available. Very nice men's dress hats and lots of utility grade hats. I am told that the folks in Oakland are really into hats... especially Sunday hats for women. A very humbling experience to see all the choices available in fancy (read: outrageous) women's Sunday-go-to-church hats. Didn't buy any hats there... I think I was a little overwhelmed by the experience.

Sunday was spent looking at a couple of shops in a seedy area south of the Mission District. Keep your doors locked while there! Did not buy any hats on Sunday.

I didn't have time to stop by a couple of my favorite hats shops in San Francisco that are worthy of mention. Mrs. Dewson's on Filmore Street is always an experience. "Da Purveyor to Da Mayor" as she calls herself because former Mayor Willie Brown buys his hats there. Interesting selection and a bit pricey. Mrs Dewson is a nice black lady who, more often than not, is under the influence of something that makes her very entertaining to talk to. And, no matter what kind of hat you wear when you go to her shop, she'll always imply that it is a P.O.S. and she wouldn't sell such a sorry hat. Bought a nice custom very bright red hat box (I think it glows in the dark!) from her a few years ago and got a lot of snickers carrying it through the airports!

Then, there's Paul the Hatter on Geary out by the coast. Absolutely amazing and stunning fine Panamas. Methinks the cheapest hat I have seen there was $700 with some of the finer hats going for up to $10,000. Paul is very interesting guy to visit with. He goes down to Columbia and buys the cores and then finishes the hats in his shop. (I think he lives behind the shop). Several movie stars buy their hats from Paul. Woody Harrelson, Danny Glover et al. I hope to own one of his Panamas some day.

I mentioned earlier Bernie Utz in Seattle... A really neat shop with large selection downtown near the market. I bought one of my favorite Borsolino straws there about eight years years ago, and then, while sitting out on the pier having Sunday brunch at Fisherman's warf in San Francisco the damn wind blew my hat off and in to the bay!!! I was SICK!!! I tried to hire a waitor to jump in a retrieve my hat (no takers) and then rented a tour boat to try and find it. Bummer...

Had a nice affirmation when I got back from SF Monday and went to a meeting on Tuesday wearing one of my fine new acquisitions. An attractive young lady there gave me a real nice compliment on my hat. One thing lead to another, and, ahem... I mentioned rewards earlier in this post... it is nice to wear nice hats in Dallas!
 

Art Fawcett

Sponsoring Affiliate
Messages
3,717
Location
Central Point, Or.
WOW!!! What a post Stinker!!
You were in my backyard, or at least what WAS my backyard!! I am familiar with all of the stores mentioned and I applaud your stamina. Rusty & Corey at the "Hat Guys" are good guys and good to deal with. I may be supplying them with some fine Panama's ( custom) this spring, but that remains to be seen.
Sounds like a great weekend.

Art
 

Bebop

Practically Family
Messages
951
Location
Sausalito, California
I don't live far from Mrs. Dewson's Hats and going there once was enough for me. She is rude, obnoxious and takes great pleasure in putting down other hat sellers. You would think she made the hats herself. You can't get a straight answer from her about any hat. It is difficult to browse without being badgered. She just wants to sell, sell, sell. Mayor Brown bought a hat there once and she believes she is the "hatter to Mayor Brown". The Mayor used to shop wherever he wanted to boost the economy in S.F. She said to me, "I am known internationally. Why, they even know of me in Denver". Very entertaining but not where I would buy a hat. I have not tried the others although I think others on this board have.
 

Andykev

I'll Lock Up
Bartender
Messages
4,119
Location
The Beautiful Diablo Valley
Here is my two cents, as I have been to them all!

stinker said:
The Hat Guys in downtown Oakland is an all time favorite of mine... heck of a hat shopping experience.

I have been there, those guys are great. Gave me a free hat brush. Nice selection, but modern manufactured hats. Still, nice selection, and great service.

stinker said:
Berkeley Hat Shop is just outside the UCLA Berkeley campus on Telephone Road.

Sorry, spoke too soon, never been to that place.

stinker said:
Top Hatter shop in San Leandro just south of Oakland.
Been there long ago. Are they still alive? You are right, old couple, used to do clean and blocks..now they just sell. Ya, bring your body guard. The shop is the house...and it is as described. Nice old couple.

stinker said:
Mrs. Dewson's on Filmore Street is always an experience. "Da Purveyor to Da Mayor" as she calls herself because former Mayor Willie Brown buys his hats there. Interesting selection and a bit pricey. Mrs Dewson is a nice black lady who, more often than not, is under the influence of something that makes her very entertaining to talk to. And, no matter what kind of hat you wear when you go to her shop, she'll always imply that it is a P.O.S. and she wouldn't sell such a sorry hat.

She is an obnoxious bit**. Grabbed my hat off my head (a fine OPTIMO) and said "Gimme that, lemme see". She was at the time eating pork rinds. Got grease on my hat. Tossed it back to me, with a hummmph! Then she said, and this is no S***, "Well , if your not gonna buy a hat, get out!".
By the way, Mr. Willie Brown buys a LOT of hats now from OPTIMO in CHICAGO.

stinker said:
Then, there's Paul the Hatter on Geary out by the coast. Absolutely amazing and stunning fine Panamas. Methinks the cheapest hat I have seen there was $700 with some of the finer hats going for up to $10,000. Paul is very interesting guy to visit with. He goes down to Columbia and buys the cores and then finishes the hats in his shop.

That is not all Paul buys in Columbia! The place reeked of reefer madness. He was uncaring, and the display area was about the size of the front counter at a 7-11 store! Hats are nice, but you can get the same-or-better from Art or Optimo. I wasted a BART rice and bus ticket to go over there and be disappointed.

However, your reviews are wonderful.. wish you had snapped some pictures.

Oh, and Paul REFUSED to let me take ANY pictures of his place. I didn't photo Mrs. Dewson...as it was a hole in the wall and she was immediately unwelcomely rude. Hat Guys...I have pics and they were open arms.
 
I can agree with most of that AK but the Top Hatters place has never been a big deal to me. They follow you around like you are going to steal something and they are not all that cheap. God forbid if you want to try something on too. They are a bit overwhelming. Too bad they are that way since I live just on the other side of the city. Snows cleaners does all of their cleaning now and they use far too many smell chemicals on your hat.
Dewson is a nut and so is Paul.
The Hat Guys is probably the best place I can recommend. My friend Jason loves that place. They know him by sight as well. ;)

Regards to all,

J
 

feltfan

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,190
Location
Oakland, CA, USA
Andykev said:
I have been there, those guys are great. Gave me a free hat brush. Nice selection, but modern manufactured hats. Still, nice selection, and great service.

(...)

That is not all Paul buys in Columbia! The place reeked of reefer madness. He was uncaring, and the display area was about the size of the front counter

I strongly recommend against using The Hat Guys in Oakland
for any cleaning, blocking, or restoration. Crummy sweat bands,
poor attention to detail, and lousy blocks. It's a good store for
a cheap hat, if that's what you want.

The guy who runs Paul's Hat Works is Michael, not Paul. Paul's was
opened in 1918, so Paul isn't around... I'm not sure why everyone gets
in such a tizzy about the smoke in there. The real issue is that, regardless
of his tastes, he refuses to run a real hat shop. Not only won't he
do repairs, he won't even repair or reblock hats purchased from him.
I hear from a reliable source that he's even stingy with hatmaking
practices and information.

His Panamas do appear to be real, PB, but really pricey, too. Go there
to see his old equipment or his collection of hat boxes. But it's not a
place for a smart buyer to make a purchase.

Sadly, the best place is no longer around. I sure miss
Jon Lundberg's old Men's vintage shop in Kensington,
just outside of Berkeley.
 

SHARPETOYS

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,425
Location
Titusville, Florida
Bebop said:
I don't live far from Mrs. Dewson's Hats and going there once was enough for me. She is rude, obnoxious and takes great pleasure in putting down other hat sellers. You would think she made the hats herself. You can't get a straight answer from her about any hat. It is difficult to browse without being badgered. She just wants to sell, sell, sell. Mayor Brown bought a hat there once and she believes she is the "hatter to Mayor Brown". The Mayor used to shop wherever he wanted to boost the economy in S.F. She said to me, "I am known internationally. Why, they even know of me in Denver". Very entertaining but not where I would buy a hat. I have not tried the others although I think others on this board have.

I wonder why a few hatters do that.She must be the sister of a Virginia hatter I know he has all of her traits plus a few more even worse than hers. If he didn't sell it you bought junk and your hat maker is a lousy hatter! Kinda makes you sick.
 

fedoralover

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,006
Location
Great Northwest
I went to Pauls hat shop a year ago, he was charging $1500. for his 100% beaver felt fedora's and they didn't even have an edge binding. That's right, they were 15 hundred dollars!! Needless to say I didn't stay long.

fedoralover
 

Andykev

I'll Lock Up
Bartender
Messages
4,119
Location
The Beautiful Diablo Valley
Feltfan You are Correct Sir!

feltfan said:
Sadly, the best place is no longer around. I sure miss
Jon Lundberg's old Men's vintage shop in Kensington,
just outside of Berkeley.

Ah yes, in Colusa Circle. I grew up 5 minutes from there in El Cerrito! He had a fire. I think Art bought some of his stuff. Art is the guy to ask about this guy. As to Pauls, ya everyone knows it's Michael Harris, but I could care less about his smoking pot. It just affected his customer service which sucked.

JP< you are right about Top Hatters. They refused to let me try on a hat....and they stuck with me as I tried to look at the merchandise. She even said I had to put a plastic protector on my head to try on an hat. And it was a (at the time) a cheap $90 Biltmore!
 
Andykev said:
JP< you are right about Top Hatters. They refused to let me try on a hat....and they stuck with me as I tried to look at the merchandise. She even said I had to put a plastic protector on my head to try on an hat. And it was a (at the time) a cheap $90 Biltmore!

Exactly my experience. Not exactly a couple of great people to work with. I'll go to The Hat Guys instead of them any day. I have only had them clean and block one of my hats. You can ask Art what a "great" job they did. :rolleyes: :p

Regards to all,

J
 

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