Hat making tools

[Stoney]

Good hat making tools are getting harder to find all the time, even on OFAS. When you do find an antique tool on e-Bay, you're always taking a chance that it may not function correctly or that it is so old, and well used, that it may be ready to fall apart rather than perform the function is was originally made for. This is of course fine if you are collecting antiques that will be displayed rather than buying tools that you expect to use for hat making.

Enter Mark DeCou, a Kansas woodworking artisan who designs and builds Everything from custom furnishings to hand made knives. Mark created a set tollikers as a gift for a hat maker in Washington state.

Since he posted the project in his blog http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6393
, he has been commissioned to design and build more hat making tools. Mark's designs are both functional and elegant while his craftsmanship is superb.

I just received this Rounding Jack, Tolliker and Puller Down this last Thursday and can honestly say that I am very impressed with the tools. They not only look and work well but are also built well enough to last a lifetime.

Mark even carved my name into the back of the Rounding Jack.
I'm looking forward to many years of use from these wonderful handcrafted tools.

If you have a need for hat making tools or something else that you would like crafted from hardwood you can always contact Mark at
mark@decoustudio.com


Mark's projects page http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/decoustudio/projects and his web site
http://www.decoustudio.com/

 

[besdor]

Can he make hat flanges?


Steven
www.bencrafthats.com

 

[Stoney]

Steven,

Mark plans on making more hat tools including...

Flanges, Curling Irons, Conformators and Formillions. Given a paper pattern, or measurements I am sure he could make blocks to order as well.

 

[tonyb]

It appears that the "foot" (or whatever you call the curved section) of that rounding jack is adjustable. Is that right?

Looks like money well spent, Stoney.

 

[Stoney]

Correct Tony

The curved portion, that sits against the crown, is adjustable. This adjustment allows for a wider length on the sides than on the front and rear all in one single cut. With the adjusting screws backed out all the way, the rounding jack cuts the same dimension all the way around the hat.The width of the cut is also adjustable with a built in pointer and rule to set the desired brim width.

I agree that this is money well spent. It normally take me about 15 minutes to trim a brim, careful marking and using a pair of scissors. This tool makes a 1 minute job of the same task.

 

[tonyb]

Mine isn't as elaborate as yours, but it's certainly a good tool. The vendor I bought it from told me it was made by a craftsman in Alaska, who does this sort of thing to stay busy during the long, dark winter months.

Yup, it sure is faster than using a compass and scissors and sandpaper. Beyond that, it also makes for a cleaner, neater, more uniform cut. So far, I've used mine to cut four brims. The cutting itself takes just a matter of seconds -- 10 or 15 of 'em, I'd guess. But it can take a few minutes to set up the hat (securely on the block, in my case) so it can't wobble around, and the tool (adjusting to desired brim width, inserting blade).

Brim cutting has its anxious moments (can't very well undo the cut), but I find it the most fun of any part of the hat-making process. It's certainly a lot more fun than, say, sewing in a sweatband by hand.

 

[SPRFINO]

It would be great if he will make individual block and flanges at a reasonable price. Cobblers would keep individual lasts for their customers in order to fashion bespoke shoes. In fact this is still in practice for the very finest European establishments. The question is will Art store my flange and block or do I have to ship it when I want a hat made?

 

[majormoore]

I have been working with Mark on these tools from the start, and he makes some nice ones, plus he is working on some other tools at this time for me.

The block and flange will be rather costly, I would say over $300.00 for the two of them at the least. I have been in contact with the only block maker I know of here in the states and a block alone is over $175.00 just a simple number 52, and the price goes up fast for other styles. The flange is alot more work to it.

Major Moore

It would be great if he will make individual block and flanges at a reasonable price. Cobblers would keep individual lasts for their customers in order to fashion bespoke shoes. In fact this is still in practice for the very finest European establishments. The question is will Art store my flange and block or do I have to ship it when I want a hat made?

 

[Stoney]

New Tools from Mark

Another neat tool that Mark just started making. This is a runner down. It's used to push the block cord down to the bottom of the block.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/9856

This page show the progress he is making on Conformators and Formillions.
http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/decoustudio/blog/5734

These are pretty neat. I've been working on a design of my own as well and will share it as
soon as I'm satisfied with the results.

 

[Rick Blaine]

Stoney, when do we get a chance to buy a hat YOU made?

 

[Stoney]

I really do enjoy making hats and the problem is that I am starting to run out of room for them. lol

I'm actually starting to think I may do a few Rick. I have to finish making my first Conformator. Then the subsequent one(s) until I'm satisfied with the results. Having a few Conformators is the only way I would consider making hats for any of my fellow loungers. I also have to gin up some more blocks and flanges in various sizes before I can get serious about hat making. If I do go forward with this I plan on making long oval blocks as well as standard ones.

Just to make sure we're on the same page, I'm not offering to make hats yet.
It will be a good while yet ( at least 6 month to a year minimum, maybe more) before I feel that I'm ready to do so, and when I do it will be a limited number of hats. Hat making is a hobby for me and not a business. Also when I do get ready I will be in contact with MK first to make sure that any hat business that is done here meets with his approval and follows his rules.

In the mean time I know that there are several really good hatters here that can provide exactly what anyone is looking for. I really do enjoy seeing the results of their work.

 

[John in Covina]

That is awesome!

 

[Lefty]

This page show the progress he is making on Conformators and Formillions.
http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/decoustudio/blog/5734

With the astronomical prices the vintage examples fetch, it will be interesting to see what these go for. They look like a heck of a lot of work to make, but every tool he makes looks like a piece of art itself.

 

[majormoore]

I have been helping Mark on all the tools, we talk about once a week, he has not informed me what the cost will be, but I know it has taken a long time to make those two tools.

Major Moore

 

[Topper]

This page show the progress he is making on Conformators and Formillions.
http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/decoustudio/blog/5734

Familiar Design .... ;-)

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=12790&highlight=conformateur

 

[Bertie.Wooster]

I recently purchased a Grossmann Dresdenia machine for straw braid sewing. I need to buy some equipment for the blocking process. What would I need to block a straw hat? I do not want to spend too much money on something that is not essential.

Any homemade alternatives to this machine seen below? Could you use a non-steam iron and a wooden hat block?

Boon & Lane hat blocking machine by VintageSchoolGallery, on Flickr

 

[ChicagoWayVito]

I recently purchased a Grossmann Dresdenia machine for straw braid sewing. I need to buy some equipment for the blocking process. What would I need to block a straw hat? I do not want to spend too much money on something that is not essential.

Any homemade alternatives to this machine seen below? Could you use a non-steam iron and a wooden hat block?

Boon & Lane hat blocking machine by VintageSchoolGallery, on Flickr

What kind of straw braid are you planning on sewing? Are you going for Milan straw? For straw you will still want to have the ability to apply steam to it and yes you can block it on a wooden hat block. Likely you would need a sculpted hat block that has an accompanying tipper in order to put in creases and pinches. You may also need some type of flange for brim work. Hat making is not a cheap hobby, it can consume your time and your wallet.

 

[Ciro]

Hi Bertie.Wooster,

Inwards' book on straw hats has a chapter on hand blocking. 1920 edition maybe. I don't know modern methods.

Regards,
Ciro

 

[Ciro]

Hat making is not a cheap hobby, it can consume your time and your wallet.

... but it is so interesting. Once in, you are hooked, you are done. Aint'it?

 

[Bertie.Wooster]

I was thinking of using Rustic/Tyrolean Plait to make straw boaters. What is a tipper, may I ask?