Guy Culture, custom-made extravagance

[MrBern]

A little article on th trend of custom made items, from suits to skateboards.
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/02/04/fashion/04CODES.html

Part of the appeal of custom culture is that it taps into the connoisseurship and one-upmanship that has long been central to guy culture. But whereas this was once the province of a certain tax bracket and its implicit fixations — Savile Row suits, golf clubs, cigars and single-malt Scotch — it now includes youthful fetishes with the coolest surfboards, sneakers and skateboards.

Be sure to check the multi-media photos:
http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2010/02/03/fashion/20100204-codes-slideshow_index.html

Custom-made woolblazer, $895, and corduroy vest,$235, at Michael AndrewsBespoke; made-to-measure stripedcotton dress shirt, $110 at BrooksBrothers; monogrammed embroideredtie, $225 at Ralph Lauren;trousers in deadstock English wool,part of a custom three-piece suit,$3,300 at Freemans SportingClub; monogrammed 18-karat goldcuff links, $1,600, sterling silver IDbracelet, $350, leather belt, $100,and sterling belt buckle, $215, all atTiffany; Vacheron Constantin Quaide I'lle watch in palladium and rosegold, $31,370 at Wempe Jewelers;made-to-order tortoiseshellglasses, $350 at A. R. Trapp.

 

[theinterchange]

All that money, and I don't even like the drape of the jacket. the left sleeve looks odd where it joins the shoulder looks awkward.

Randy

 

[KILO NOVEMBER]

The Yasser Arafat look lives!

Where is his custom-made safety razor and custom-made shaving cream?

 

[Methuselah]

Hmn, must have been a slow news day.

I like this bit:

...Mr. Trepanier... maybe the first man to use the words “totally awesome” to describe a custom-made suit.

I don't think that the image slide show does the article any favours - all the details are about how much everything costs, not what unique features the item has.

If they weren't bothered about showing off and having more money than sense, this bit:
"monogrammed 18-karat goldcuff links, $1,600"

Could have read:

"hand made, unique to you cufflinks about $300, at your local craft jeweller."

 

[HatRak]

"If you don't look like Brad Pitt before you get it, you're not going to look like Brad Pitt after you get it."

Dang.

Hatrak

 

[J.J. Gittes]

All that money, and I don't even like the drape of the jacket. the left sleeve looks odd where it joins the shoulder looks awkward.

Randy

They were trying to imitate a roped shoulder but it looks all funky, I agree.

 

[Bourbon Guy]

I'm sure you know by now, Bern, that clothes posted here will be ripped to shreds. I thought it was interesting. I didn't know Duluth would customize a pack for you. I suppose it is like most anything else, if you have the dough and ask, most places will make you whatever you want.

 

[MrBern]

Duesenbergs in th Depression

I'm sure you know by now, Bern, that clothes posted here will be ripped to shreds. I thought it was interesting. I didn't know Duluth would customize a pack for you. I suppose it is like most anything else, if you have the dough and ask, most places will make you whatever you want.

You've just made my nite! Thats exactly why I posted this article.

In this horrible economy, there are some people who will spend more to get what they want. And its not just an old man's game.

 

[Geesie]

When someone says "custom culture" I don't think of " Savile Row suits, golf clubs, cigars and single-malt Scotch" and I sure as heck don't think about $30,000 wardrobes.

I think of hot cams, pinstripes, and $30,000 a year paychecks.
At very least, I think of DIY.

And furthermore, "guy culture" - what? By using the word "guy" instead of "male" or "wealthy investment banker who bought that suit with his government bailout" that implies things like beer and darts.

Sometimes I think the New York Times lifestyle articles are written for the sole purpose of making the rest of the country think that New York is full of crazy pretentious jerks.

 

[norton]

Sometimes I think the New York Times lifestyle articles are written for the sole purpose of making the rest of the country think that New York is full of crazy pretentious jerks.

It's not??[huh]

 

[MrBern]

Dan Trepanier...frugal?

Maybe Im wrong, but i believe the gentleman wearing the goods in the slide show is just a male model. I doubt any of that was custom made for him.

On the other hand, heres a pic of the Esquire contest winner qouted in the article:

It was, in fact, clothes from Michael Andrews that helped Dan Trepanier become Esquire’s Best Dressed Real Man in America last year. “I sent in two different shots, and I was in a three-piece pinstripe suit in one and a tweed vest in another,” said Mr. Trepanier, a junior buyer at Saks Fifth Avenue

Note how the article spins the economy of custom versus OTR:

"With alterations, it’s more expensive(buying off the rack) than getting something made that fits you like a glove."

 

[Bourbon Guy]

It's not??[huh]

No more than anywhere else.

 

[Bourbon Guy]

You've just made my nite! Thats exactly why I posted this article.

In this horrible economy, there are some people who will spend more to get what they want. And its not just an old man's game.

It is always interesting the changes that take place in a tight economy. Suddenly some businesses who couldn't have cared less about what you wanted a year ago become willing to accomodate your requests. And folks who used to throw money away on stuff that wasn't quite right, suddenly refuse to buy anything that isn't exactly the way they want it.

 

[jawellington]

michael andrews bespoke

i just ordered a suit from Michael Andrews Bespoke. I am interested to see how it turns out. It is not bespoke, but it is more hand work than MTM.

 

[Richard Warren]

The times is not a funny as it used to be. must be the staff layoffs.

 

[Tailor Tom]

2 problems

All that money, and I don't even like the drape of the jacket. the left sleeve looks odd where it joins the shoulder looks awkward.

Randy

The first problem is that he is just too bulky/beefy/worked out for the size of suit they have him in.

The second problem is that is you look closely, he has a low shoulder....many people actually do...and the suit isn't cut, nor compensating for it (say, in the way of a thicker pad on one side), thereby creating the poor draping.

 

[Maguire]

No more than anywhere else.

Lol, i don't know what part of NYC you're living in.

 

[Orgetorix]

The first problem is that he is just too bulky/beefy/worked out for the size of suit they have him in.

The second problem is that is you look closely, he has a low shoulder....many people actually do...and the suit isn't cut, nor compensating for it (say, in the way of a thicker pad on one side), thereby creating the poor draping.

Exactly. The shoulders on that coat are way, way too narrow for that guy. The divots below the top of the sleevehead and the way the collar is so far away from his neck are dead giveaways.