GQ armholes

[MrBern]

Did anyone notice the Feb GQ mag ?
Theres an article on how the latest style of suits should fit.
They seem a bit mod to me.
pants are quite narrow straightlegs.

Anyway, the first point mentioned is....the higher , smaller armholes for a better trimmer fit. Better armholes equals better fit sleeves, which then are better matched to the trouser style.

 

[Hemingway Jones]

Bern,
I did read that piece in GQ. The armhole notation was encouraging, but that was where it ended. It went on to describe a skin tight short fit with sleeves at the wrist and pants without a break, and very distasteful to me: a severe pulling at the buttons of the jacket. This style of wearing a suit is for a different demographic than you and me, which is afterall, GQ's target audience.

I lament what has happened to that magazine. It was a constant proponent of classic style in the 1980's and was where and how I learned to dress. It has fallen hard and fast to an entirely different sensibility.

Bern, how's the bazooka coming along?

 

[MrBern]

Hem,
Yes its a very young looking suit. Looks rather mod to me. Like something a british band or Austin Powers might wear.
I believe they suggested wearing one jkt size smaller than usual.
Oh, and no highwaisted trousers.Actually the fit was more like straightleg jeans.
I see young trendy guys doing that. Or VERY slim guys. Probably trying to appeal to the sort of fellow who doesnt even own a suit.

Have you seen those blazers w/ a sweat hoodie sewn in for an alternative look?
-b

 

[Mycroft]

Bern,
I did read that piece in GQ. The armhole notation was encouraging, but that was where it ended. It went on to describe a skin tight short fit with sleeves at the wrist and pants without a break, and very distasteful to me: a severe pulling at the buttons of the jacket. This style of wearing a suit is for a different demographic than you and me, which is afterall, GQ's target audience.

I lament what has happened to that magazine. It was a constant proponent of classic style in the 1980's and was where and how I learned to dress. It has fallen hard and fast to an entirely different sensibility.

Bern, how's the bazooka coming along?

I acualy saw that and I think also in December's issue from the English version though. I think there is a geral trim towards higer arm holes, but I think that it is more a fad or style they are reincorperating.

 

[Hemingway Jones]

There is nothing wrong with fashion, but some things are just silly. A suit a size too small, and thanks for reminding me about that, is just miserable. High armholes is an improvement; it aids movement. A suit too small feels terrible. I know, because I once lost 45 pounds and gained it back in a single year, all of my suits had to go.

 

[Mr. Rover]

It went on to describe a skin tight short fit with sleeves at the wrist and pants without a break, and very distasteful to me: a severe pulling at the buttons of the jacket. This style of wearing a suit is for a different demographic than you and me, which is afterall, GQ's target audience.

DAMN YOU THOM BROWNE!! This is all his doing! The Sartorialist keeps raving about him as the biggest influence in menswear at the moment- and it seems to have had atleast some sort of effect. I mean- it couldn't have been Jude Law considering Alfie flopped.

 

[herringbonekid]

considering that most modern suits look about a size too big anyway, advising men to wear a size smaller might inadvertantly bring them back to their correct size.

 

[Mr. Rover]

That's true- going from one extreme to the next might mean that next in line is the middle/perfect sizing. Maybe by next year some of us can go back to off-the-rack well-made clothing?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

They'll wear a size that is closer to their actual size, which is a good thing. With most men wearing at least a size too big, advice to wear a size "too small" will bring them down to their actual size. Shortening and slimming of jackets for men is long overdue, like raising the button stance on SB jackets.

No doubt the arms on their jackets will still be too long, though. The hand should be entirely free of fabric! Depending upon whether you want to show some shirt cuff, the jacket will be at the hand-wrist boundary, or a little elbow-ward. On short trouser legs, i just have terrible visions of Michael Jackson ...

I said this before somewhere else: Isn't this style what skateboard-types have been wearing for at least 10 years, and some of the less adventurous punks before them? It's just another way for trendy stores and labels to overcharge massively. What was in last year isn't in any more: Throw that stuff away, and buy this new stuff. The dictates of "fashion".

The look will work on excessively slim people (if, as i doubt, they can find suits small enough!). I fear for the majority trying to take on this fad.

bk

 

[Hemingway Jones]

Well, this is what they have in mind:

Personally, I think this gentleman looks silly.

I'm sorry I couldn't make this larger, but here is a link:
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15651

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Interesting. The fit of his jacket looks pretty much right. Except for the arms. Those are rather too high. The trousers don't look too bad, neither. I don't mind slim cut trousers ... and they don't look awfully short.

bk

 

[Hemingway Jones]

The arms are a big exception! If I walked into the boardroom like that, everyone would assume that I've gone mad, and lacked neither the money or the sense for a proper fitting suit.

As for the pants, I agree with you BK: they look ok, albeit tight, which is a huge no-no in corporate circles and there appears to be some flair at the end, almost like a bell-bottom. I have seen other examples where the pants are up above the ankle.

I believe this is known as the "Pee Wee Herman" look, and we all know what happened to that chap.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I believe this is known as the "Pee Wee Herman" look, and we all know what happened to that chap.

Riotous adventures on a big bicycle!

bk

 

[Hemingway Jones]

Riotous adventures on a big bicycle!

bk

Precisely! And I wish to avoid that at all costs.

 

[Mr. Rover]

That doesn't look too bad at all. If you want to see some goofy suits, look at The Sartorialist. Thom Browne's emo schoolboy look has gone too far, I think.
The cuffs look fine to me. There are rather high, but traditionally, the British wear with 1" of linen showing and Americans wear with 1/2".

 

[Baron Kurtz]

That 'dandy' has almost all his cuff showing. At least 2.5" of linen.

bk

 

[Mr. Rover]

On some of my older jackets that haven't been altered since I got them are starting to show maybe 1.5" linen. This is more due to the fact that I'm growing than any sort of fashion statement. I do prefer to show more cuff than too little.

 

[Marty M.]

Right On Brother.

There is nothing wrong with fashion, but some things are just silly. A suit a size too small, and thanks for reminding me about that, is just miserable. High armholes is an improvement; it aids movement. A suit too small feels terrible. I know, because I once lost 45 pounds and gained it back in a single year, all of my suits had to go.

Mr Hemingway Jones I couldn't agree with you more. The look is so silly. GQ is all about fashion not STYLE.

Marty