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Goodwear Ventura Leather Choice?

Grayland

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,082
Location
Upstate NY
About a year ago, I filled out an interest form for a Goodwear Ventura. They quickly responded and gave me details including a wait time of 12-14 months. I didn't have the patience to wait that long so I never followed up. About 6 weeks ago, GW contacted me to let me know I was in line for a first quarter 2013 jacket. They had kept my place in line, even though I hadn't made a deposit. Of course, I'm going to take advantage of this. I requested leather samples and could use some advice. I've read that GW leather is extraordinary, but I'm torn between horsehide and goatskin. I have an Aero LHB in brown HH and a few months ago, I took delivery of an Aero 30's Slim-Fit HB in Seal Goatskin. I also have a Bill Kelso A-2 in seal brown horsehide. I chose Seal Goatskin as I wanted something completely different than the brown horsehide and I'm leaning towards goatskin for the GW.

I'm going to sell the half belt to help fund the GW Ventura, so if you are interested in a stock size 40, keep an eye out.

Of the samples GW sent me, these are the four I liked the best:

HH - LHJ104:Seal Brown semi-aniline, veg tanned, 1.1-1.2 mm
HH - LHJ103: Seal Brown aniline, veg tanned, 1.1-1.2 mm (any advantage to aniline over semi-aniline?)
Goat - LGI101: Dark Seal Brown aniline, 1 mm (a great grain and the lead hide in my opinion)
Goat - LGI104: Ultra-Vtg dark russet aniline, chrome tanned (softer hand), 9 mm (glove leather soft, but the color is pretty close to the Aero brown and it is so soft, I wonder about the durability?)

Any advice from the peanut gallery?
 

pauleway

Practically Family
Messages
655
Location
Western NY
About a year ago, I filled out an interest form for a Goodwear Ventura. They quickly responded and gave me details including a wait time of 12-14 months. I didn't have the patience to wait that long so I never followed up. About 6 weeks ago, GW contacted me to let me know I was in line for a first quarter 2013 jacket. They had kept my place in line, even though I hadn't made a deposit. Of course, I'm going to take advantage of this. I requested leather samples and could use some advice. I've read that GW leather is extraordinary, but I'm torn between horsehide and goatskin. I have an Aero LHB in brown HH and a few months ago, I took delivery of an Aero 30's Slim-Fit HB in Seal Goatskin. I also have a Bill Kelso A-2 in seal brown horsehide. I chose Seal Goatskin as I wanted something completely different than the brown horsehide and I'm leaning towards goatskin for the GW.

I'm going to sell the half belt to help fund the GW Ventura, so if you are interested in a stock size 40, keep an eye out.

Of the samples GW sent me, these are the four I liked the best:

HH - LHJ104:Seal Brown semi-aniline, veg tanned, 1.1-1.2 mm
HH - LHJ103: Seal Brown aniline, veg tanned, 1.1-1.2 mm (any advantage to aniline over semi-aniline?)
Goat - LGI101: Dark Seal Brown aniline, 1 mm (a great grain and the lead hide in my opinion)
Goat - LGI104: Ultra-Vtg dark russet aniline, chrome tanned (softer hand), 9 mm (glove leather soft, but the color is pretty close to the Aero brown and it is so soft, I wonder about the durability?)

Any advice from the peanut gallery?

I've always been partial to the Russet Goat, Love that reddish brown. As far as durability, goatskin is a very durable leather and I'm sure GW gets some nice hides!
 

Plumbline

One Too Many
Messages
1,271
Location
UK
aniline is dyed and tanned with no protective topcoat against staining etc.

semi-aniline has a topcoat ( usually a clear coat) to give some protection against staining and water damage ... it's also therefore a little more durable

I'd go for the seal aniline HH :D
 

Radu

Familiar Face
Messages
84
Location
Romania
Hi, Seal Brown (LHJ103) will be a perfect choice . It was my choice for my Ventura and I'm very pleased.
 

Grayland

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,082
Location
Upstate NY
I've always been partial to the Russet Goat, Love that reddish brown. As far as durability, goatskin is a very durable leather and I'm sure GW gets some nice hides!

The ultra-vintage goatskin is pretty amazing and reminds a little of capeskin in it's buttery soft hand.
Dubow_01.jpg



I hope to get those up by Sunday.



Please post some pics and stats of the one you're selling!

I'll try and have them up by Sunday.
 
D

Deleted member 16736

Guest
You can't make a bad choice. I always prefer veg tanned to chrome tanned and aniline to semi-aniline/pigment. The more natural state leather is in, the more beautiful it ages (in my opinion only). Also, chrome tanned leather tends to discolor over time.

Between the goat and the horse, I like the seal brown aniline HH very much. It's his best horsehide, in my view. However, it tends to water spot. Try flicking a few drops of water on it and see how quickly the water spots disappear. I've found that it takes weeks or months to do so! Because the leather is aniline, the water is absorbed into the leather and can cause discoloration. Not a good thing if you ever plan on wearing it out in the rain. I've witnessed this phenomenon in samples and a finished jacket, so it's not a fluke.

The aniline goat doesn't water spot, is almost as heavy, and will develop a beautiful vintage patina. I would recommend this leather in any color (seal, dark seal, or light russet), but you can't go wrong with the seal HH either or any of his other leathers. John is also making me a jacket very soon and I'm 95% sure it'll be in the light russet aniline goat.
 
Messages
11,148
Location
SoCal
I love John's Aniline hides as well...
The Seal HH is nice, but I will be picking the Dark Seal Aniline when my time comes.
The Semi-anilines look a bit like the color is painted on. I know it sounds strange, but vintage brown HH jackets from the 40s have that look to me- A solid brown. Painting furniture as opposed to staining is a comparison.
 

pauleway

Practically Family
Messages
655
Location
Western NY
The ultra-vintage goatskin is pretty amazing and reminds a little of capeskin in it's buttery soft hand.
Dubow_01.jpg



I hope to get those up by Sunday.





I'll try and have them up by Sunday.

That ultra-vintage goat is really nice. Love the grain. I don't think it gets any better than that!
 
D

Deleted member 16736

Guest
I love John's Aniline hides as well...
The Seal HH is nice, but I will be picking the Dark Seal Aniline when my time comes.
The Semi-anilines look a bit like the color is painted on. I know it sounds strange, but vintage brown HH jackets from the 40s have that look to me- A solid brown. Painting furniture as opposed to staining is a comparison.

The dark seal doesn't water spot. It's a little too black cherry for me, but it's a beautiful hide.
 

Graemsay

Practically Family
Messages
994
Location
Melbourne
It's a tenet of my religion that the more distressed and abused a leather jacket is, the better it looks.

So go for aniline, and accept each water spot as another step towards nirvana. :D
 

bretron

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,519
Location
NW
Grayland,

the J104 has my vote man. Love the grain....

And remember to hit me up when you're ready to move that 30s HB ;)
 

paulgt3

Familiar Face
Messages
81
Location
Mammoth Lakes, the Sierras
I have one Goat GW (Dubow A2) and two HH GW (Star and a new Monarch) So I can definately tell you to pick the HH NO DOUBT!!!
Oh and I have a Good Wear Goatskin G1 too, and that jacket is so comfortable, like your favorite housecoat on a crisp spring morning
So definitely go with the GOAT. But wait the New GW HH in russet is BEAUTIFUL so get the Horse Hide, its in a beautiful front qtr Horse.
But the GW Dubow Goat is so supple, like i dont know now I am totally confused and I cant get any sleep!!!!
 
D

Deleted member 16736

Guest
I have one Goat GW (Dubow A2) and two HH GW (Star and a new Monarch) So I can definately tell you to pick the HH NO DOUBT!!!
Oh and I have a Good Wear Goatskin G1 too, and that jacket is so comfortable, like your favorite housecoat on a crisp spring morning
So definitely go with the GOAT. But wait the New GW HH in russet is BEAUTIFUL so get the Horse Hide, its in a beautiful front qtr Horse.
But the GW Dubow Goat is so supple, like i dont know now I am totally confused and I cant get any sleep!!!!

Does the goat keep you as warm or almost as warm as the horsehide jacket?
 
D

Deleted member 16736

Guest
It's a tenet of my religion that the more distressed and abused a leather jacket is, the better it looks.

So go for aniline, and accept each water spot as another step towards nirvana. :D

Water spotting doesn't distress the jacket, just me.
 

Grayland

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,082
Location
Upstate NY
You can't make a bad choice. I always prefer veg tanned to chrome tanned and aniline to semi-aniline/pigment. The more natural state leather is in, the more beautiful it ages (in my opinion only). Also, chrome tanned leather tends to discolor over time.

Between the goat and the horse, I like the seal brown aniline HH very much. It's his best horsehide, in my view. However, it tends to water spot. Try flicking a few drops of water on it and see how quickly the water spots disappear. I've found that it takes weeks or months to do so! Because the leather is aniline, the water is absorbed into the leather and can cause discoloration. Not a good thing if you ever plan on wearing it out in the rain. I've witnessed this phenomenon in samples and a finished jacket, so it's not a fluke.

The aniline goat doesn't water spot, is almost as heavy, and will develop a beautiful vintage patina. I would recommend this leather in any color (seal, dark seal, or light russet), but you can't go wrong with the seal HH either or any of his other leathers. John is also making me a jacket very soon and I'm 95% sure it'll be in the light russet aniline goat.

Joel, I flicked some water onto the 4 samples I am considering. I put them away while they were still wet and just remembered to check them today - I think I put the water on them 2 days ago. No spots at all on the 4 samples I had. I'm not doubting that you saw water spots, but maybe we had different leather samples? The water was from our purified drinking water spigot.
 
Messages
11,148
Location
SoCal
When I got my samples, I ran them all under the sink, laid them in the sun to dry, put some Pecards on, waited 3 days, then carried them around in my pocket for about a week. I figure that my jacket might look like my samples in about 4 years... ;-)
 

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