German & Austrian Hutmachers

[mayserwegener]

J. Hückel´s Söhne "Lutra", 56 cm, possibly late 1930s. This is the 7th hat from my recent 9 hat find. This is my first JHS "Lutra" which means European Otter so possibly similar marketing to "Seal Velour". The Felt is really fantastic (color, finish, hand) and very pliable. It's a Trachten style Soft Felt which is also the case for my early Tonak Plant Hückel "Lutra". The Folkish Band is really interesting / unique. This hat was sold by Julius Reiter Eger / Cheb Czechoslovakia (prior to WWI Austria Hungary).

Open Crown

 

[Steve1857]

That 9 hat find just keeps on giving Steve. Great deep chocolaty colour and velvety look to the otter felt. The ribbon certainly is unique. Do you think it's original to the hat or a later addition?

J. Hückel´s Söhne "Lutra", 56 cm, possibly late 1930s. This is the 7th hat from my recent 9 hat find. This is my first JHS "Lutra" which means European Otter so possibly similar marketing to "Seal Velour". The Felt is really fantastic (color, finish, hand) and very pliable. It's a Trachten style Soft Felt which is also the case for my early Tonak Plant Hückel "Lutra". The Folkish Band is really interesting / unique. This hat was sold by Julius Reiter Eger / Cheb Czechoslovakia (prior to WWI Austria Hungary).

Open Crown

 

[mayserwegener]

That 9 hat find just keeps on giving Steve. Great deep chocolaty colour and velvety look to the otter felt. The ribbon certainly is unique. Do you think it's original to the hat or a later addition?

Steve, Thank you! I believe the Hat Band is original. Here is a later Tonak Plant Hückel "Lutra" that is Trachten like.

https://germanaustrianhats.invision...ckel-plant-hückel/?do=findComment&comment=740

Here is Trachten style J.Hückel´s Söhne "Prima Velour."

https://germanaustrianhats.invision...tfabrik-weilheim/?do=findComment&comment=1556

 

[Steve1857]

Thanks for sharing those images, Steve.

The ribbon on your JHS "Lutra" is certainly unique and very eye catching.

Steve, Thank you! I believe the Hat Band is original. Here is a later Tonak Plant Hückel "Lutra" that is Trachten like.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/124-tonak-formerly-hückel-plant-hückel/?do=findComment&comment=740

Here is Trachten style J.Hückel´s Söhne "Prima Velour."

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/6-johann-hückel´s-söhne-hückel-hutfabrik-weilheim/?do=findComment&comment=1556

 

[steur]

Great, Stefan! I like that Woolies...!

Thanks, Matt. Always glad to find one of these.

Most excellent! These old wool felts deserve some more appreciation

Thanks, Panos. Agreed!

Stefan, Super find! That is a great liner. I also have no idea on the company that made it. Always enjoy seeing these old European Wool Soft Felt Dress Hats.

Thanks you, Steve. Always happy to find one of these. It needs some work, but we'll get it back to glory.

 

[steur]

J. Hückel´s Söhne "Lutra", 56 cm, possibly late 1930s. This is the 7th hat from my recent 9 hat find. This is my first JHS "Lutra" which means European Otter so possibly similar marketing to "Seal Velour". The Felt is really fantastic (color, finish, hand) and very pliable. It's a Trachten style Soft Felt which is also the case for my early Tonak Plant Hückel "Lutra". The Folkish Band is really interesting / unique. This hat was sold by Julius Reiter Eger / Cheb Czechoslovakia (prior to WWI Austria Hungary).

Open Crown

Very nice and a cool find! Remarkable hat.

 

[steur]

I've had one of these before, but it wasn't my size. I thought I might get lucky with this one. Nope. Again not my size.
Huber Chamois in brown. Size 57 (and true to size, dammit) with the bound brim at 6,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. It's missing its liner, which it must have had at one point judging by the thread that was still under the sweatband. Remarkable felt and fairly lightweight at 100 grams.

 

[mayserwegener]

I've had one of these before, but it wasn't my size. I thought I might get lucky with this one. Nope. Again not my size.
Huber Chamois in brown. Size 57 (and true to size, dammit) with the bound brim at 6,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. It's missing its liner, which it must have had at one point judging by the thread that was still under the sweatband. Remarkable felt and fairly lightweight at 100 grams.

Stefan, Great find! The Chamois looks fantastic and I really the color combos plus form. I only have one Aurel Huber Soft Felt. They started to make their own felt after WWII and since they had no experience in felt production recruited expelled workers and management from JHS, Novy Jicin, Czechoslovakia.

https://germanaustrianhats.invision...k-filz-hutfabrik/?do=findComment&comment=1941

 

[mayserwegener]

Very nice and a cool find! Remarkable hat.

Stefan, Thank you!

 

[steur]

Stefan, Great find! The Chamois looks fantastic and I really the color combos plus form. I only have one Aurel Huber Soft Felt. They started to make their own felt after WWII and since they had no experience in felt production recruited expelled workers and management from JHS, Novy Jicin, Czechoslovakia.

https://germanaustrianhats.invision...k-filz-hutfabrik/?do=findComment&comment=1941

Thanks, Steve. I do remember reading in that book they were a strawhat factory by origin and the felt came much later. Good call by them to hire the JHS workers: it shows!

 

[mayserwegener]

I just posted this elsewhere so I thought I posted here too.

German and Austrian Real Velour requires Wet Brushing and should be made from Hare Fur. Scratching takes place after Wet Brushing. Wet Brush -> Dry -> Scratch -> Wet Brush -> Wet Brush -> Scratch (prior to Brushing Machines the Brushing was done manually). I am not sure if anyone is doing Wet Brushing today as described below.

From the last Director of S. & J. Fraenkel Wien, Ebreichsdorfer Felt Hat Factory Gustav Menschel's book "Der Hut". This is very rare information.

Wet Brush Velour Production at close of S. & J. Fraenkel Wien, Ebreichsdorfer Felt Hat Factory (1972).

"When the tips are clipped off and the hair is ironed all around or from top to bottom one talks about “Soleil”."

From "Hair Velour / Real (Echter) Velour / Prime (Prima) Velour Fabrikation von Damen- und Herren- Filzhüten, Der Deustchen Hutmacher Zeitung (1933)"

1930s Real Velour Soleil

 

[Raybuntu]

Those velour hats look so amazing. I wish there was a custom hatter that still made those. For me it's it's hard to find these hats vintage in 7 5/8. The information is however very useful and hopefully some talented hatter will again revive this technique.

So is it something that has to be done during the felting process or can this be done let's say on a hare body that is produced and sold today?

 

[mayserwegener]

Those velour hats look so amazing. I wish there was a custom hatter that still made those. For me it's it's hard to find these hats vintage in 7 5/8. The information is however very useful and hopefully some talented hatter will again revive this technique.

So is it something that has to be done during the felting process or can this be done let's say on a hare body that is produced and sold today?

Wet Brushing takes place during the Felting Process. I am not sure if this is done anymore. When I visited the Tonak factory I didn't see any Wet Brushing machines. It's possible they do it another way. I know that FEPSA Portugal sells unfinished Hare hoods but you would need to have the machines to produce the such finishes and they wouldn't be exactly the same as what is described above. I have had some conversations with Graham at Optimo Chicago and he is doing some Specialty Finishes in house but he has the machines. I am planning to visit to see what they are doing. Also you can purchase finished Velour Hoods and Capelines from Tonak, FEPSA and other sources. The above Soleil Velour Hat is from the 1930s or older so not going see Velour like that today.

Automatic Wet Brushing for Velours (Center), S. & J. Fraenkel Wien Hat Factory / Ebreichsdorfer Felt Hat Factory (mid 1950s). Automat. Bürstmaschinen is Automactic Brushing Machines. (Click on Photo to Enlarge.)

Velour Auto-Brushing Machine used in Panizza Ghiffa Factory.

 

[mayserwegener]

P. & C. Habig Wien "Grand Prix Paris", 57 cm, 110 grams, late 1890s - 1900. The Felt is very thin and light weight with a great smooth finish. The black liner with gold embossing is striking. The textured sweatband is also very light weight with the "Patent Ventilator" holes. There was a newspaper (from September 4, 1903) spacer behind the rear of the sweatband. I am thinking this was able made for the Paris 1900 World Exposition or was made the year after P. & C. Habig Wien winning the "Grand Prix" at the Paris 1900 World Exposition. The seller told me that the Melone belonged to a Banker in Greiz, Germany so that explains the use of the Berliner Börsen-Zeitung Financial Newspaper as spacer. I took some photos wearing it so the curved form will be more apparent. This is one of my best Stiff Felt finds.

Patent Ventilator

Paper Label with Handwritten Entries, Stitched in Liner

Newspaper Spacer, Berliner Börsen-Zeitung, Friday, the 4th. September 1903. (The seller told me that the Melone belonged to a Banker in Greiz, Germany so that explains the use of the Berliner Börsen-Zeitung Financial Newspaper as a spacer.)

P. & C. Habig Wien - Berlin Catalog, possibly mid 1890s to early 1900s.

Similar Stiff Felt Forms, Also P. & C. Habig Wien Crest with "Patent Ventilator"

Natural Light (Very Similar Hat to No. 16 above)

 

[PanosChris]

P. & C. Habig Wien "Grand Prix", 57 cm, 110 grams, late 1890s - 1900. The Felt is very thin and light weight with a great smooth finish. The black liner with gold embossing is striking. The textured sweatband is also very light weight with the "Patent Ventilator" holes. There was a newspaper (from September 4, 1903) spacer behind the rear of the sweatband. I am thinking this was able made for the Paris 1900 World Exposition or was made the year after P. & C. Habig Wien winning the "Grand Prix" at the Paris 1900 World Exposition. I took some photos wearing it so the curved form will be more apparent. This is one of my best Stiff Felt finds.

Patent Ventilator

Paper Label with Handwritten Entries, Stitched in Liner

Newspaper Spacer, Berliner Börsen-Zeitung, Friday, the 4th. September 1903.

P. & C. Habig Wien - Berlin Catalog, possibly mid 1890s to early 1900s.

Similar Stiff Felt Forms, Also P. & C. Habig Wien Crest with "Patent Ventilator"

Natural Light (Very Similar Hat to No. 16 above)

Phenomenal find, especially at this condition!! Also, a non-tiny size! Fantastic!

 

[mayserwegener]

Phenomenal find, especially at this condition!! Also, a non-tiny size! Fantastic!

Panos, Thank you! It's easy to wear because very light weight.

 

[Steve1857]

Absolutely fantastic Steve. Everything about it is wonderful to behold. In such great condition, too. Congrats!

P. & C. Habig Wien "Grand Prix", 57 cm, 110 grams, late 1890s - 1900. The Felt is very thin and light weight with a great smooth finish. The black liner with gold embossing is striking. The textured sweatband is also very light weight with the "Patent Ventilator" holes. There was a newspaper (from September 4, 1903) spacer behind the rear of the sweatband. I am thinking this was able made for the Paris 1900 World Exposition or was made the year after P. & C. Habig Wien winning the "Grand Prix" at the Paris 1900 World Exposition. I took some photos wearing it so the curved form will be more apparent. This is one of my best Stiff Felt finds.

Patent Ventilator

Paper Label with Handwritten Entries, Stitched in Liner

Newspaper Spacer, Berliner Börsen-Zeitung, Friday, the 4th. September 1903.

P. & C. Habig Wien - Berlin Catalog, possibly mid 1890s to early 1900s.

Similar Stiff Felt Forms, Also P. & C. Habig Wien Crest with "Patent Ventilator"

Natural Light (Very Similar Hat to No. 16 above)

 

[mayserwegener]

Absolutely fantastic Steve. Everything about it is wonderful to behold. In such great condition, too. Congrats!

Steve, Thank you! I have been looking for a P. & C. Habig Wien Stiff Felt from this era for a long while and this one exceeded expectations.

 

[mayserwegener]

Anton Peschel Neutitschein, measures 57 cm possibly late 1930s early 1940s. There is no mention of APN but it's very similar in construction to the Anton Peschel Neutitschein, Peschel "Kristall" from the same find. The darker Brown Close Cropped Velour is really fantastic easily dry creases and is in very good condition.

Open Crown

 

[PanosChris]

Anton Peschel Neutitschein, measures 57 cm possibly late 1930s early 1940s. There is no mention of APN but it's very similar in construction to the Anton Peschel Neutitschein, Peschel "Kristall" from the same find. The darker Brown Close Cropped Velour is really fantastic easily dry creases and is in very good condition.

Open Crown

Steve, that is really fantastic! We don't see brown velours all that often, especially of this quality and period.