From the Hills of Beverly -- Jack Taylor

[Matt Deckard]

Went down to Beverly Hills today to see Jack Taylor and his shop. An old fellow who has that admirable quality of knowing what you’re talking about when you talk about suit details. I’ve met him on a couple occasions though don’t think he remembers me, though he himself is unmistakable. Giant glasses which stand out from any you’d see in a crowd, and when you talk to him you need to ad a bit of a shout as his hearing isn’t what it used to be. Books of swatches lay on tables and chairs and desks through the shop, and when I asked him for something in particular… like a 16 oz. Blue pinstripe surge in worsted he said if he didn’t have it he could order it or the swatches from the companies he knows make it. That’s is a good start for what I hop to be a good relationship. Too many times have I walked into shops where the man speaking with you just agrees with whatever you say, and when you bring up something they can’t do or haven’t seen they deny it can be done. Jack doesn’t do any of the tailoring himself, he has a staff of tailors that do the work to the specs that he oversees, though he knows how a suit should fit and look. I pt on one jacket and I was thinking too short and he said ”too short”. I put on another jacket and I thought too long and he said “too long”. I like his eye. Though I think his styles are a bit stodgy and boring in the sense of Solid blue grey or black peppering the walls, I’m sure it’s simply the fact that anyone paying around $3,000 for a custom suit nowadays seems to want the boring. He says he can do anything. He has the eye; he knows balance and button stance and shoulder to hip and how to do an armhole measurement. The shop primarily carries Brioni suits which are thought to be today’s best of the best when it comes to tailoring… at least for of the peg. Brioni being the same company that suit Brosnan, and did so for his Bond films… Their armholes are high like I like though not quite that of what you see on the likes of Fred Astaire and Gary Cooper.

As for Jack Taylor and his suits… Maybe sometime in the future I’ll have one made (2 weeks turn around time sounds quick enough to me) Ijust had fun talking to the man.

 

[Mr. 'H']

Wow.

What a great experience!

 

[Tony in Tarzana]

I wonder if he's training anybody to take his place. I'm worried that guys like that are leaving us and there won't be anybody to take up the baton, or the measuring tape in this case.

I should meet this fellow while he's still around, even though I can't quite swing a $3,000 bespoke suit right at the moment.

But then again, I doubt I'd be the only guy driving around wearing a suit worth three times what the car is worth.

 

[Matt Deckard]

He's an interesting fellow. To take up the button... hmmm he does just tell the tailors what to do and they follow through to the smallest detail. Being able to convey what you want and seeing it done correctly is a feet nowadays. Tailoring is all about communication.

 

[MK]

Here he is....

http://storycorps-west.blogspot.com/2006_02_01_storycorps-west_archive.html

 

[Tomasso]

Brioni suits which are thought to be today’s best of the best when it comes to tailoring… at least for of the peg.

Interesting. And what about Oxxford and Kiton?

 

[Matt Deckard]

From what I have seen for fit and construction, Zegna is better than Oxxford. I think Oxxford is too caught up in the little details so sometimes their shoulders end up rumply or their balance is not quite right. I've been trying on made to measure jackets all last weekend and this week. Kiton is good, though Brioni just has a better appearance to my eye and from what I hear talking around with the tailors, a better construction. Martin Greenfield has the Armhole qualms though is made pretty darn well.

Who is currently making Polo's blue and Purple label suits?

 

[Tomasso]

The Big Three of RTW are generally considered to be Oxxford, Kiton and Brioni(though Attolini would join them if they were a larger maker). As for quality of make, Oxxford has the highest degree of hand work followed by Kiton and Brioni. Of course, fit and cut are king and the differences are what makes for a horse race.

I would recommend Oxxford MTM as one can dictate virtually every dimension of the suit so as to mimic the cut of the Italian makers if you wish. Fitting is best done at the Oxxford workrooms in Chicago, followed by their NYC flagship store. They also offer an end bolt program(a lot of good fabrics as they also own Holland & Sherry) that brings the cost of the suits down to 2k.

RLBL is made by Corneliani while RLPL is made by Saint Andrews.

 

[Matt Deckard]

I've seen the St. Andrews Purple Labels at the local Polo Outlet, though I'm still not a big fan of the narrow trousers on either the blue or purple label, the jackets feel light as air... the construction is so smooth with the lightest fabrics. I wonder how well they would tailor a 17oz. wool. It's said to be harder to make the thin stuff look good... they do a good job.

 

[Tomasso]

I've seen the RLPL(SA) made up in 15 oz. flannel, at the Mansion, and it was very well done. As you noted, the heavier cloths are a tailors dream. I would mention that the RLPL MTM program(SA) has received some less than flattering reviews but that seems to be due to RL's shortcomings, not SA's. If you want SA MTM you would probably be best served going through Bergdorf Goodman(I believe they still carry SA).

These days, all of the top RTW makers, with the exception of Oxxford, offer ridiculously skimpy trousers. IMO, Oxxford makes the finest trouser available today, RTW, MTM or bespoke.

 

[Robert Conway]

What are his prices like?


Thanks,

RC

 

[MK]

not cheap

I will let you know. I am going to see him on Saturday to have him make me a suit. Jack won't be in business much longer at his age. I am not going to miss this opportunity.

You will get to read all about it in the first issue of Classic Style.

 

[Robert Conway]

Thanks MK.

I live a few miles down the road from his store. Unless his prices are way beyond my budget I will probably be following you in your footsteps, once I get off of this project I'm on at work.

Do you have a ballpark figure for his suits? I'm going to guess $1200-2500


cheers

RC

 

[MK]

.

Close to 3k.

 

[Robert Conway]

Close to 3k.

Ouch.

But then again most tailors in B.H. charge $300 for a custom shirt, which is twice as
much as the base price else where in town.


RC

 

[MK]

.

Actually most of the top tailors I have read about charge that much or more for a bespoke suit. You can get made to measure for far less, though.

I would normally never consider spending this much, but since we are doing an article on Cary Grant and we are interviewing his tailor......it would be foolish to pass up on this opportunity. Besides...it will make for a great read.

 

[Robert Conway]

He made suits for Cary Grant?

Actually that makes perfect sense.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

From time to time, suits made by Jack Taylor turn up in L.A. thrift stores. (Hospital thrift shops near wealthy neighborhoods are usually a good bet.) The ones I've found were from the '70s and '80s, and very well made. Lots of "Hollywood" touches: boldly patterned pure silk linings, for example.

.

 

[MK]

.

I am going to see the man tomorrow.

 

[MK]

.

You will get to see my new suit in about three weeks.