Five Stars Leathers: remake of a 30's "Aviator's" style Jacket

[Mysteryo]

I was lucky enough to grab what seems to be a 30’s west coast jacket, a couple of years ago.
Its a beautiful and rare « aviator’s » type, alike those made by Ralph Pugh, or Block Bilt... Made of a nice sheepskin (not 100% sure) in an overall god condition for it’s age but a short and also fragile.

I took the decision of having it reproduced by 5 Stars, after unsuccessfully offering it to remake by Norshor Leather or Field Leathers.

Shawn/Ali accepted right away and I sent the jacket to Pakistan, where it arrived safely.

I had prepared an illustrated note to explain the tweaks I expected on the remake, as well as the specifications on leather, lining, hardware…

Required Specs:

*30’s Sport Jacket repro*
-seal brown HH 1,2mm
-green/gold satin lining for body
-black satin lining for sleeve
-n°3 repro talon zipper for chest pockets
-n°5 repro talon zipper for main closure
-horn buttons (brown) at sleeve
-russet tread

Please:
Reproduce the overall pattern and keep fitting measurements, just add length (see below) and slightly move elements (see below)
-add 5cm length all around jacket at bottom
-don’t lower pocket
-lower yoke at back 5cm
-lower half belt and side straps accordingly
-slightly move/center pocket on D pocket (see picture)
-respect seams distance (3/4 mm)
-reproduce slight curves around nake collar.
-reproduce slight curves of sleeve

Shawn and his team started to work on the pattern and sent me pictures about a week later. They didn’t tear the original for that.

I salute the very good communication with 5 stars, sending pictures and reassuring me with any question I had.
Here’s the steps on the making.

Then finally another week or so, later, the jacket was almost done!
I received pictures of the measurements for validation

 

[Mysteryo]

Now the jacket’s done and it looks very promising!
I cant wait to receiving it and see how it fits.

Waiting time has come

Original

Repro:

 

[Imuricecreamman]

That looks really promising. Seems to have more curvature to the sleeves than most 5* jackets I've seen. Pocket setup looks great.

 

[MrProper]

Congratulations. Very cool.
Yes, replicating an original is definitely the strength of 5*.
They are not designers, but very good craftsmen.

 

[Observe]

Looks like a home run to me!

 

[TartuWolf]

Fit pics please

 

[ton312]

Shawn ought to replace all his civi sleeve patterns with this one. Looks like an actual sleeve!

 

[Canuck Panda]

The year of 5* is here... Excellent job. I feel like I got on the 5* train too early and its golden years has just begun.

 

[tmitchell59]

Thanks for the interesting post. The original may be a pony hide or calf skin. I've got pony hides from this era that looks similar.

What is the cost for such a project?

having the original is certainly a plus?

Is this jacket in their offerings now?

Do they like these projects?

 

[tmitchell59]

Congratulations. Very cool.
Yes, replicating an original is definitely the strength of 5*.
They are not designers, but very good craftsmen.

thanks, this answers some questions.

What about the leather?

 

[Mysteryo]

Thanks for the interesting post. The original may be a pony hide or calf skin. I've got pony hides from this era that looks similar.

What is the cost for such a project?

having the original is certainly a plus?

Is this jacket in their offerings now?

Do they like these projects?

hey, Terry
Well it cost me 350€ (I did not try and trade "a free remake for a new model in their line")
It seems that replicating from an original pattern is what they do best.
I dont know if this jacket will be in their offering, we did not discuss that .
I dunno whever they like doing this or not. But as long as it's not a copy of an existing brand, they seem ok to do it.
As for the leather, I asked for a tea core HH, i did not require a particular thickness, and I DID NOT receive the jacket yet (should be here in a few days), so I'll keep you posed when I got it.
The original fitted me well, so I just asked a few lenght in the body, and some moves on the pockets.

 

[58panheadfan]

Now the jacket’s done and it looks very promising!
I cant wait to receiving it and see how it fits.

Waiting time has come

Original

View attachment 534916

Repro:

View attachment 534915 View attachment 534911 View attachment 534913 View attachment 534914

Now the jacket’s done and it looks very promising!
I cant wait to receiving it and see how it fits.

Waiting time has come

Original

View attachment 534916

Repro:

View attachment 534915 View attachment 534911 View attachment 534913 View attachment 534914

A nice and hopefully successful project in the end. I'm looking forward to the fit pics and a short review in terms of wearing comfort etc. As I already mentioned, I am more than satisfied with my two 5* leather jackets (Roadmaster and Trojan). The guys from 5* did a really great job! Of course, as explained in the 5* thread, you have to give them a lot of detailed information in all kind of matters, but if you have done your homework right, you can look forward to a nice product. In terms of quality/price, 5* cannot currently be beaten on the market. Both waxed steer hide leathers in black and seal brown are absolutely great and can be compared with leathers from manufacturers in a different price range. Of course, ethics in general must be left out of products in low-wage countries.

 

[tmitchell59]

hey, Terry
Well it cost me 350€ (I did not try and trade "a free remake for a new model in their line")
It seems that replicating from an original pattern is what they do best.
I dont know if this jacket will be in their offering, we did not discuss that .
I dunno whever they like doing this or not. But as long as it's not a copy of an existing brand, they seem ok to do it.
As for the leather, I asked for a tea core HH, i did not require a particular thickness, and I DID NOT receive the jacket yet (should be here in a few days), so I'll keep you posed when I got it.
The original fitted me well, so I just asked a few lenght in the body, and some moves on the pockets.

Thank you.

 

[Aloysius]

Of course, ethics in general must be left out of products in low-wage countries.

On this point, tailoring and machining are respected skilled trade professions in the Subcontinent. Five Star's operation seems to be a high end one in that sense.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Sure looks like a great sucess! Hope it fits you as well as it looks, love the deep seal brown leather in the recreation jacket, with fine attention to detail, as is quite obvious.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Looks like an excellent result. Looking forward to the fit pics.

 

[Mysteryo]

Hey guys,
I just received the jacket, just 2 days after shipping! DHL
Along with the original jacket.

Here the fit picts, I just let them talk.

Even if I don’t look like it, I’m VERY pleased with the results!
The hide is a tea core thick HH,
The pattern is very comfortable without being boxy, the length is exactly what I expected and the stitching and details are great!
(I love the buttons)

What I would change if I had to do it again, on this jacket: lower the pockets by 1 inch.

Wonderful job by Five Stars, maybe other remakes to follow?

What do you think?

 

[Mysteryo]

 

[TartuWolf]

Looks very nice. Some fit pics zipped up please! I remember you mentioned that you asked to increase the length but keep the pockets where they are - I guess that was the mistake. Would definitely look better with pockets lower. The back gusset seems extremely functional/useful! Looks like 5* did a great job!

 

[Marc mndt]

Wow, great job. That looks absolutely amazing.

One thing I'd change is the sleeve length, I'd spec them about 2 cm shorter. And maybe the cuff circumference, spec it slightly more narrow. But that's just knit picking. The overalls silhouette is what's important, they've nailed it.