Five Star Leather Jackets

[Imuricecreamman]

How's the veg-tanned goatskin of your dubow look now?

It's great. Wore it quite a bit through spring. I'll post some pictures next week.

 

[PilotJens]

We should create a broken in five-star jacket thread .Only post if at least 4 months old worn often

 

[MrProper]

I think it will take time but eventually it will break in just like an old baseball glove does. I want one in black. Wish I knew how to figure all the measurements out. Wonder if he could duplicate a jacket that’s sent to him. Could he let’s say clone an Aero Ridley ?

he can

 

[MrProper]

Hi, my B3 Body - D1 customized Collar Vest Sheepskin is at home.

First of all, I wanna thank to MrProper, his advices were extremely helpful. As many of you know, you must provide ton of info to 5* in order to get what you want.

Here we go with the pics:

View attachment 341826

View attachment 341827

View attachment 341828

View attachment 341829

View attachment 341830

Congratulations. Looks like a perfect fit. nice jacket

 

[Canuck Panda]

I've been looking at these photos all night last night... and it just hit me...
A pattern block that fits like that is not as simple as numbers. Mr Tony has gone through HUNDREDS of heavy leather jackets from different makers over the years. Just google and see the images that shows up. To get this fit with the heavy leather isn't as easy as copying an Aero jacket or a Vanson jacket. If my guess is right, his custom pattern block is his experience of Vanson, Johnson, Aero, and vintage all mixed in one. How big the action back pleats, shape and number of panels of the back...etc. all worked to make this pattern block. It's easier to fill out a thinner jacket with gym body and look good, total different ball game with heavy leather. This is foundation for the perfect jacket. Well done.

see that little tuck right above the half belt, I think that's what made it. for both mobility and look.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I think if Shawn could replicate this hide and subtract 2oz (somewhere in the 3-4oz range) it would be perfect. It is incredibly thick. It will definitely soften but I don’t think this jacket will ever drape in any way. It’s armor for sure.

One thing to consider for those ordering this hide, while going trim in the body would be OK, trim sleeves would not. If I could do it over again I would add 1/2” to the elbow circumference for ease is bending my arms. I’d also subtract 1/2” in length. I’ll post some updated photos this weekend, I plan on crumpling and wearing it as much as possible indoors to see if I can get it to yield a bit.

I sent Shawn some Horween Vermont HH in the 3/4 oz weight. It's like the LUX hide that SB had. Thick and super soft. This is my cheat for the heavy jacket that fits, for now. I'll post some photos of jacket once the leather gets to him and he's done with it. This would be a lot more wearable, until I find my perfect block to build that 2mm monster.

We can ask Shawn to copy this leather if thick and soft is preferred.

 

[TheDonEffect]

Wow. When I said it couldn’t be as thick or stiff as anything I’ve had before I was very much mistaken. Makes LW’s 4oz feel like cheese paper. This is almost comically thick. And insanely stiff. I do fell like it will soften eventually but as a warning to anyone who wants to try…it will take extreme commitment. The pattern and cut are superb. Ironically one of the best jackets I have in terms of ease of movement. I’m hesitant to post fit pics b/c it’s so holding its own shape right now it’s not even funny. Will get better shots in 80-100 years when it’s a bit more broken in. It does have a pleasant aroma similar to cxl. I should also add that it creaks. It doesn’t squeak. It creaks.
View attachment 341736 View attachment 341737 View attachment 341738 View attachment 341739 View attachment 341740 View attachment 341741 View attachment 341742

Oh my sweet baby jesus, that's a mighty fine piece of leather, and it has a nice aroma? Skive that sucker down to 2oz which I'm sure he can do... man oh man...

And you sure it's the jacket that's creaking and not your joints trying to cope with that beast? lol jk.

 

[Berto]

Congratulations. Looks like a perfect fit. nice jacket

Many thanks for your support.

This journey was amazing and I'll repeat.

 

[TheDonEffect]

Great fit as well! (Without 2 mock up jacket)

You definitely belong to Johnson leather club, mock-up jacket + potentially a free remake jacket.

Rofl, the hate in you is strong. I love what 5* is doing, but let's not get ahead of ourselves here, all makers including 5* don't always get the fit right. You inherent the risk with 5*, and the low price reflects that, other makers inherent the risk, hence the higher price.

 

[TheDonEffect]

I sent Shawn some Horween Vermont HH in the 3/4 oz weight. It's like the LUX hide that SB had. Thick and super soft. This is my cheat for the heavy jacket that fits, for now. I'll post some photos of jacket once the leather gets to him and he's done with it. This would be a lot more wearable, until I find my perfect block to build that 2mm monster.

We can ask Shawn to copy this leather if thick and soft is preferred.

View attachment 341907

That'd be sweet, I mean heck just skiving down Tony's leather would be fine as well.

I think this is going to open up another Pandora's Box, but can anyone source some Shinki and send it to Shawn, I mean, since we're asking, lol.

 

[Hh121]

Rofl, the hate in you is strong. I love what 5* is doing, but let's not get ahead of ourselves here, all makers including 5* don't always get the fit right. You inherent the risk with 5*, and the low price reflects that, other makers inherent the risk, hence the higher price.

that's why I said above, no risk for go to JL, you get a mock up jacket plus if they got the finished jacket wrong they will make you a new one for free. That's the experience from other members, so why you are so sensitive??

 

[TheDonEffect]

that's why I said above, no risk for go to JL, you get a mock up jacket plus if they got the finished jacket wrong they will make you a new one for free. That's the experience from other members, so why you are so sensitive??

Yup, that's what you said. Not sensitive at all, just pointing out you really go out of your way to talk about JL, which I find amusing, they must've really burned you for you to go out of your way to always bring them up.

Anyway, don't want to derail this thread because Ton's new jacket is ahhhhmazing.

 

[El Marro]

We should create a broken in five-star jacket thread .Only post if at least 4 months old worn often

That’s a cool idea but well worn jackets are one of the hardest things to come by on this forum.
I know I am quite guilty of this myself, about the time the first arm creases are setting in on a new jacket I am already looking down the road at the next one…

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

You definitely belong to Johnson leather club, mock-up jacket + potentially a free remake jacket.

sure, if I can get some guarantee from manufacturer, always nice. But that would only be on their mistakes. What I'm talking about is laypeople who aren't trained on clothing design and tailoring making honest mistakes

that's why I said above, no risk for go to JL, you get a mock up jacket plus if they got the finished jacket wrong they will make you a new one for free. That's the experience from other members, so why you are so sensitive??

BTW, my thoughts that I mentioned weren't to say that 5 Star should remake jackets on their or our mistake. I was saying I'm not sure if there's a cultural issue with how they take the orders and are just going by the book of exactly what you ordered. An example of this as Ton mentioned/recommended adjusting the sleeve dimensions because of the thickness of the leather. I don't think anyone would expect Ton to know this when ordering, especially on a new leather he hasn't handled yet. Yet Five Star should know this. Especially since they've made him several jackets. All it would take is a quick, hey, I know we've built several of these for you, but FYI, this leather is really thick and in our experience you'll need a little extra room for the sleeve bending, etc. etc.

That being said, as was also mentioned, they do a great job of transitioning the measurements in the sort of in between spaces that aren't being spec'd out. That takes real talent. So good job there.

We are freaks on these forums buying more jackets than is humanely possible to wear. Most "regular" customers probably won't reorder after spending a few hundred bucks and getting something that is hard to wear or something they didn't realize they were making a mistake by requesting something or neglecting something without realizing the full scope.

That's the ying and yang of this niche. If you get it right, you're way ahead. If you get it wrong, you were halfway or third of a way to just buying a higher end jacket instead. I'll reserve for those who cannot order off the shelf, buy used sizes, etc. of course as that's a huge advantage to trying.

 

[Hh121]

sure, if I can get some guarantee from manufacturer, always nice. But that would only be on their mistakes. What I'm talking about is laypeople who aren't trained on clothing design and tailoring making honest mistakes


BTW, my thoughts that I mentioned weren't to say that 5 Star should remake jackets on their or our mistake. I was saying I'm not sure if there's a cultural issue with how they take the orders and are just going by the book of exactly what you ordered. An example of this as Ton mentioned/recommended adjusting the sleeve dimensions because of the thickness of the leather. I don't think anyone would expect Ton to know this when ordering, especially on a new leather he hasn't handled yet. Yet Five Star should know this. Especially since they've made him several jackets. All it would take is a quick, hey, I know we've built several of these for you, but FYI, this leather is really thick and in our experience you'll need a little extra room for the sleeve bending, etc. etc.

That being said, as was also mentioned, they do a great job of transitioning the measurements in the sort of in between spaces that aren't being spec'd out. That takes real talent. So good job there.

We are freaks on these forums buying more jackets than is humanely possible to wear. Most "regular" customers probably won't reorder after spending a few hundred bucks and getting something that is hard to wear or something they didn't realize they were making a mistake by requesting something or neglecting something without realizing the full scope.

That's the ying and yang of this niche. If you get it right, you're way ahead. If you get it wrong, you were halfway or third of a way to just buying a higher end jacket instead. I'll reserve for those who cannot order off the shelf, buy used sizes, etc. of course as that's a huge advantage to trying.

I totally get it, I was having the same thoughts when I did my first 5star. Unfortunately, you can only learn from yourself and spec your jacket better next time. My first jacket is 4.5-5 oz Horween and the elbow is too slim because they are still using the same spec they are using for thin leather, I learned that and spec wilder elbow on my 6oz jacket, turns out just fine, I enjoy the process very much, and learns a lot from other members.

 

[ton312]

I've been looking at these photos all night last night... and it just hit me...
A pattern block that fits like that is not as simple as numbers. Mr Tony has gone through HUNDREDS of heavy leather jackets from different makers over the years. Just google and see the images that shows up. To get this fit with the heavy leather isn't as easy as copying an Aero jacket or a Vanson jacket. If my guess is right, his custom pattern block is his experience of Vanson, Johnson, Aero, and vintage all mixed in one. How big the action back pleats, shape and number of panels of the back...etc. all worked to make this pattern block. It's easier to fill out a thinner jacket with gym body and look good, total different ball game with heavy leather. This is foundation for the perfect jacket. Well done.
View attachment 341904
see that little tuck right above the half belt, I think that's what made it. for both mobility and look.

Ah you give me far too much credit bro! The full AB I thought was an absolute must and I wanted the back to be similar to my Vanson model E (with the seam to bring the sides of the back in a bit). I like your idea about the vermont...I plan on asking Shawn if he can soften the black hide before it becomes a jacket.

Oh my sweet baby jesus, that's a mighty fine piece of leather, and it has a nice aroma? Skive that sucker down to 2oz which I'm sure he can do... man oh man...

And you sure it's the jacket that's creaking and not your joints trying to cope with that beast? lol jk.

I'd be lying if I said my arms weren't sore this morning, it might have well been my bones getting ready to give up the ghost. Tonight I'm going to beat the shit out of the sleeves with a rubber mallet. Nothing to see here...Totally normal thing to do.
I agree, skiving down a couple ounces while keeping this recipe would greatly enhance his current cowhide offerings. 5.5oz leather is...something. I'm not sure I would even call it a piece of clothing. I would liken it more to wearing a chainmail tunic. It's not an everyday affair.

 

[Hh121]

part of my j82 spec

 

[ton312]

I totally get it, I was having the same thoughts when I did my first 5star. Unfortunately, you can only learn from yourself and spec your jacket better next time. My first jacket is 4.5-5 oz Horween and the elbow is too slim because they are still using the same spec they are using for thin leather, I learned that and spec wilder elbow on my 6oz jacket, turns out just fine, I enjoy the process very much, and learns a lot from other members.

I meant to say, at first I thought the elbow/lower arm looked too wide on your jacket but after getting mine I completely get it and would change that measurement accordingly as well. I did go up a bit from my other jackets, just about 1/2" shy of optimal for keeping a trim sleeve but not breaking my arms.

 

[Hh121]

I meant to say, at first I thought the elbow/lower arm looked too wide on your jacket but after getting mine I completely get it and would change that measurement accordingly as well. I did go up a bit from my other jackets, just about 1/2" shy of optimal for keeping a trim sleeve but not breaking my arms.

It does visually because the stiff leather won't stay flat, I measured with my JL cross zip, it is almost the same (JL is even little bigger)

 

[ton312]

It does visually because the stiff leather won't stay flat, I measured with my JL cross zip, it is almost the same (JL is even little bigger)

From the later pics you poste I could see it settled. That was a good call. Just like heavy denim, sleeves that are too trim in heavy leather are arm busters.