Five Star Leather Jackets

[Hobbes1]

I‘m not a tailor, but I think I would try like this:
View attachment 289813

1. I like the jacket and it seems to me that the construction is well done (stitching, etc.).
2. Agreed that the back is off and the explanation seems plausible with the attached pictures of the original jacket back.
3. If that picture of the original is what was used for @red devil inspiration, then it seems clear that the curvature in the original back would need to have been highlighted as necessary. Otherwise, if not specified, then the pattern maker will generate lines that make sure the pattern joins up. (regardless of whether they are the best lines the jacket might have).
4. I agree it would be great if they had a design specialist as mentioned. However, it seems to me they are targeting a price point and bringing in another person(s) as a specialist will drive up overhead costs however much.
Given that this part of 5* seems like a (rapidly evolving) start-up, and the ability of 5* to turn out great jackets is increasing by leaps and bounds, I feel like they are doing a great job. If I wanted full design help and higher attention to detail, I would know that I need to move on to a company that provides that and pay whatever that would cost. In the mean time, I will continue to cheer 5* on to continued improvements and hope that they can maintain a very good pricing structure.

Just my $0.02.

 

[Marc mndt]

That's how you did it with your mock up isn't it?

Yes something like that. Maybe ask your tailor to do it. He'll know which panel to adjust and by how much.

 

[Mich486]

It seems like a pretty complex jacket to build. I bet Freewheelers spent ages building the right patterns. You pay for that too I’d assume. 5* working off pictures managed to pull it off somehow but there are flaws. Expecting them to have designer imho is a bit much for the price they charge.

I’m sure the next attempt at this would be better. If they nail it that is still a good deal. If not well maybe not so much...

 

[Seb Lucas]

Pretty good job given this is a complex pattern to make. Yes, it needs tweaks. It's one of those jackets that probably needs 2 or 3 iterations before the pattern is properly worked out. Ordering something like this is like a development job.

They may not need a design guy - if Shawn takes on board the feedback, he will become schooled in more period accurate design and cutting. But I wonder if the rest of his customer base notice things like sleeve width, arm opening size and jacket curves.

 

[red devil]

It seems like a pretty complex jacket to build. I bet Freewheelers spent ages building the right patterns. You pay for that too I’d assume. 5* working off pictures managed to pull it off somehow but there are flaws. Expecting them to have designer imho is a bit much for the price they charge.

I’m sure the next attempt at this would be better. If they nail it that is still a good deal. If not well maybe not so much...

I didn't know what to expect to be honest, it was difficult to have an idea just looking at what had come up so far. Hence why I mentionned that I was considering it as a mock up.

Now the question is whether I want to go further or not, kind of like whether you decide to raise or fold in a poker game (not that I am a poker player lol). And this is exactly what I am trying to assess with this discussion.

Pretty good job given this is a complex pattern to make. Yes, it needs tweaks. It's one of those jackets that probably needs 2 or 3 iterations before the pattern is properly worked out. Ordering something like this is like a development job.

They may not need a design guy - if Shawn takes on board the feedback, he will become schooled in more period accurate design and cutting. But I wonder if the rest of his customer base notice things like sleeve width, arm opening size and jacket curves.

I would suspect not, a few years ago I wouldn't have thought of any of these details. I might have intuitively grasped that the jacket makes me look "fatter" than I really am and another one makes me look "leaner".

People keep saying "that's what you can expect for this price", yet the price is not that straightforward. If you need to do a full designer's job and take all the risks to make your jacket, that part of the cost should also be taken into consideration, making these jackets more expensive than the price suggests.

That is of course a moot point if you are simply ordering a stock size from a model another lounger developped.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I didn't know what to expect to be honest, it was difficult to have an idea just looking at what had come up so far. Hence why I mentionned that I was considering it as a mock up.

Now the question is whether I want to go further or not, kind of like whether you decide to raise or fold in a poker game (not that I am a poker player lol). And this is exactly what I am trying to assess with this discussion.



I would suspect not, a few years ago I wouldn't have thought of any of these details. I might have intuitively grasped that the jacket makes me look "fatter" than I really am and another one makes me look "leaner".

People keep saying "that's what you can expect for this price", yet the price is not that straightforward. If you need to do a full designer's job and take all the risks to make your jacket, that part of the cost should also be taken into consideration, making these jackets more expensive than the price suggests.

That is of course a moot point if you are simply ordering a stock size from a model another lounger developped.

I agree. Your highly complex pattern notwithstanding, it shouldn't cost extra to design a good period pattern - in fact it might be cheaper as you end up using less leather . The issue is most likely the approach you take to patterning and customer expectations. You do need to spend some time in development and time costs money, but all patterns require development - even the bad ones.

For instance, I've never understood why A2's can't be cheaply made and accurate in patterning. The originals were cut and put together in a hurry by often poorly qualified workers. There's no reason why the baggy, ill shaped A2's of companies like Cockpit exist, except that most customers don't notice or care and many of them are likely to be middle aged overweight guys.

I like the idea that Shawn is working with others in developing his patterns. I don't mind the fact that others may benefit from a pattern I assisted him in developing (like his Buco-style racer). But I don't know how long this will continue before it all becomes too hard for Five Stars.

 

[Lord Flashheart]

Received my 5* winter halfbelt this morning five days after it was put in the post to me and 8 days since ordering. I just went with the “off the rack” Seal goat, sizing, standard moulton and lining. I really could not be happier with it! It fits really well to my eye and, although there is a minor chemical smell, it’s no worse than any other chrome tanned jacket I’ve ver owned.

 

[kazuma]

@Lord Flashheart looks good on you. I ordered the same jacket as a christmas present for a friend. Hopefully it looks just as good on him.

 

[warrior-poet]

Looks great!

 

[nick123]

Here was my five star Luftwaffe ordered a while back, kind of before they grew popular; not sure if I posted it here or not. I thought the construction was very well put together. I ended up getting rid of it due to the smell, but that seems to be the exception rather than the norm. Should be noted that Shawn was gracious throughout.

 

[Lord Flashheart]

Here was my five star Luftwaffe ordered a while back, kind of before they grew popular; not sure if I posted it here or not. I thought the construction was very well put together. I ended up getting rid of it due to the smell, but that seems to be the exception rather than the norm. Should be noted that Shawn was gracious throughout.
View attachment 290068

I think there is a bit of “luck of the draw Nick. My first 5* was the Doniger A2. It had a strong smell for a while but I rubbed it down with some leather conditioner and it came good. The Halfbelt smells a little but I expect it to clear on its own with a few days airing.

 

[ton312]

Received my 5* winter halfbelt this morning five days after it was put in the post to me and 8 days since ordering. I just went with the “off the rack” Seal goat, sizing, standard moulton and lining. I really could not be happier with it! It fits really well to my eye and, although there is a minor chemical smell, it’s no worse than any other chrome tanned jacket I’ve ver owned. View attachment 290019 View attachment 290020 View attachment 290021 View attachment 290022

Nice man! Looks great!! I didn’t notice any smell with my seal but it was there with the black I used for this model. Gone in 24hrs. Jacket looks tits. Well done!

 

[Lord Flashheart]

You and Shawn should take a bow Ton. Great work on this design. Even my wife likes it and she generally doesn’t get my jacket habit.

 

[Cornelius]

Even My Wife Likes It™ should become some sort of epic TFL jacket rating

 

[Claybertrand]

Here was my five star Luftwaffe ordered a while back, kind of before they grew popular; not sure if I posted it here or not. I thought the construction was very well put together. I ended up getting rid of it due to the smell, but that seems to be the exception rather than the norm. Should be noted that Shawn was gracious throughout.
View attachment 290068

Nick, do you have any other pics of that Luftwaffe you could post???

 

[nick123]

Nick, do you have any other pics of that Luftwaffe you could post???

There’s one more fit pic buried on VLJ somewhere IIRC but not any I can find in the immediate. Here were Shawn’s pics of the jacket however:

 

[jonesy86]

Even My Wife Likes It™ should become some sort of epic TFL jacket rating

There could be a special like button.

 

[Robbie79]

Received my 5* winter halfbelt this morning five days after it was put in the post to me and 8 days since ordering. I just went with the “off the rack” Seal goat, sizing, standard moulton and lining. I really could not be happier with it! It fits really well to my eye and, although there is a minor chemical smell, it’s no worse than any other chrome tanned jacket I’ve ver owned. View attachment 290019 View attachment 290020 View attachment 290021 View attachment 290022

@Lord Flashheart Congratulations. Perfect fit and beautiful jacket. Is it made of black Horween CXL HH or Steerhide? What about the lining - Alpaca? How much was this jacket? Thanks, Robbie

 

[Lord Flashheart]

Hi Robbie, thanks for the compliments. The hide is seal goat skin and the lining is quilted rayon. It was delivered to Victoria Australia for $420 Aussie dollars.

 

[Robbie79]

Hi Robbie, thanks for the compliments. The hide is seal goat skin and the lining is quilted rayon. It was delivered to Victoria Australia for $420 Aussie dollars.

@Lord Flashheart Thanks for your feedback. 420AUD is really a good deal and qualitywise they seem to make very good leather jackets from what I've read here so far. Enjoy wearing it!