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Five Star Leather Jackets

Messages
11,134
Location
SoCal
I think it’s a good job by the builder! I agree that it lacks the taper and curves, but wow it’s still impressive. The collar is off- looks like the original was curved up at the tips, and 5* cut it at an angle (the 2d comment applies). The back curve isn’t a measurement thing so much as a direction and drawing thing. I like the length, but feel the front should drop another inch or 2.
Sleeves tapered, yes. They got the patchwork and pockets right though. My issue with 5* at the moment is that while they are competant at sewing and copying, there isn’t a creative force behind the scenes pushing designs to make them all they can be. It’s almost like a computer just outputting what we input...not a bad thing, but not insightful either. After all, it’s in their interest to have you order #2. It would really up their game to have a creative designer come in on their end to make suggestions we can trust and say “I didn’t think of that”, or who tells us “No, bad idea!”
 

red devil

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,946
Location
London
Hmm... It is true that my other jackets have been made with input from the maker. While for this one only my ideas. It reminds me of when I was making leather jackets in Hong Kong years ago. You would come with a pic, get measured, go through a fitting then your jacket in a few days.

It was hit and miss but loads of fun. The one that came out best was blue with a greyish fur collar.
 

Hobbes1

A-List Customer
Messages
392
Hey guys not sure if this has been brought up before. But can we set a range on cost for this 5* jackets give or take $$
If money is not to be spoken I understand.
Thanks.

My experience with pricing for leather jacket(s) is as costly as $330. Including shipping to US.
It's $30 for customizations of any sort that they have on offer and $30 for shipping via DHL, in a bag.
Therefore, you should be able to calculate a bit with that and your sizing as the larger the jacket the higher the base cost.
I don't have experience with shearling jackets.
HTH
@RILO
 

torfjord

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,764
Location
Sweden
I was charged 350 $ for my jacket which will hopefully be finished tomorrow (emailed Shawn first time Monday last week). He’s been easy to communicate with and has been quick to respond despite the 4 hour time difference. I hope the jacket is as good :)
 

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,277
Location
Europe
I think it’s a good job by the builder! I agree that it lacks the taper and curves, but wow it’s still impressive. The collar is off- looks like the original was curved up at the tips, and 5* cut it at an angle (the 2d comment applies). The back curve isn’t a measurement thing so much as a direction and drawing thing. I like the length, but feel the front should drop another inch or 2.
Sleeves tapered, yes. They got the patchwork and pockets right though. My issue with 5* at the moment is that while they are competant at sewing and copying, there isn’t a creative force behind the scenes pushing designs to make them all they can be. It’s almost like a computer just outputting what we input...not a bad thing, but not insightful either. After all, it’s in their interest to have you order #2. It would really up their game to have a creative designer come in on their end to make suggestions we can trust and say “I didn’t think of that”, or who tells us “No, bad idea!”

Yes, I have thought that many times. Someone who challenges their own ideas and also makes suggestions on how something can be improved or which idea may be less good. But I could also imagine that this is perhaps such a cultural thing, according to the motto that a suggestion for improvement could be interpret as a criticism, so better not
 

red devil

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,946
Location
London
I think they don't want to be criticised for their advice? If they suggest something that the buyer ends up disliking? At the moment it is a very clear "you are choosing everything at your own risk" deal.
 
Messages
11,134
Location
SoCal
I think it’s an easy way to get out of a re-make...This is a choice perhaps, or a cultural difference, either way it leaves me waiting in the wings for the moment.
 

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,277
Location
Europe
How would I ask for the taper to be fixed for another jacket? He had good accuracy with the measurements provided, so I don't think it is something you can do with better numbers.

In terms of workmanship it is pretty competent, especially considering it was the first time the machinist was doing something like this. I need to take some more close ups to show some details

Edit: typo

I‘m not a tailor, but I think I would try like this:
4B751CB1-AD75-4B28-88C7-A24C68E8BF88.jpeg
 

CRP

New in Town
Messages
38
The 5 star version looks like a 2D version of a leather jacket.
You can see nothing is designed to fit a human body, it's just a 2D assembly of leather pieces.
The sleeves, the shoulders, the body, nothing has any curve or shows any sign of being designed for a human to fit inside.
However, the workmanship (stitching, attention to detail, willingness to experiment with new designs...) is superb. Obviously the patterns need to mature, but considering this is a jacket made from pictures and email texts I consider it a great job. With the input from all the FL members and unique requests being fulfilled, it is only a matter of time before 5* patterns will begin to mature and match up with the workmanship.
 
Messages
17,475
Location
Chicago
I would attach a measurement to each of mr propers lines in the pic above. That could correct the problem. As discussed the jacket needs to be hourglass shaped a bit and less uniform in measurement from pit to hem. Essentially a Halfbelt without the belt. Like mine:
2F73F670-C608-45C9-B76F-D103889BFD8F.jpeg
6D29AA49-D602-4BEA-B045-E546ACD655D8.jpeg
 

red devil

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,946
Location
London
I would attach a measurement to each of me propers lines in the pic above. That could correct the problem. As discussed the jacket needs to be hourglass shaped a bit and less uniform in measurement from pit to hem.

I get the feeling it would help to add measurements between the 2 vertical seams as well now that I think about it
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,291
I‘m not a tailor, but I think I would try like this:
View attachment 289813
I would use clamps to 'pin down' the extra leather, following the seams. Then I would use chalk to mark where the seams should be and send a photo of it to Shawn. Best to measure that too. Otherwise you might end up with a jacket that is too tight or just out of shape.

Similar to how a suit jacket is pinned. (Don't use pins, use clamps :))
718A06B2-2BD2-47FA-AD81-2FFED6CD5F90.jpeg
 

CRP

New in Town
Messages
38
Mine was $300 with custom sizing, additional inner pocket, elimination of upper two pockets, and addition of lower hand pockets. I took the basic cafe racer on his website and modified it, so just a modification of an existing design.
 

red devil

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,946
Location
London
I would use clamps to 'pin down' the extra leather, following the seams. Then I would use chalk to mark where the seams should be and send a photo of it to Shawn. Best to measure that too. Otherwise you might end up with a jacket that is too tight or just out of shape.

Similar to how a suit jacket is pinned. (Don't use pins, use clamps :)) View attachment 289821

That's how you did it with your mock up isn't it?
 

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