TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead
Call Me a Cab
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you're comparing the fit of nylon with leather? I think that's problem number 1.Hi everybody. I made a 5 * Jacket last year. But to me, it was a bad experience.
I take the measurements of the Alpha CWU45p and send it to Shawn (have to reduce a few measurements to be more suitable. Because the Cwu45p jacket is a bit wide)
When receiving the jacket. The leather jacket was tight at the shoulders and chest. Hand movement is limited. I can't lift my hand too high. I was planning to have Shawn made my second second jacket. But the following problems make me worry.
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This is the measurements of Alpha Industries Cwu45p Size Xs.
And here is the measurement of the custom jacket (goatskin seal brown 1.2mm)
I want the waistband is 41cm. He said, the goatskin couldn't be stretched. So he made the waistband is 43cm. After half a year of wearing, when measured again is 47cm. Maybe due to elasticity.
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And these are the problems I have with custom jacket.
1. I can't put my hands up and down comfortably. When I held my hand up, the bottom of custom jacket pulled up. With CWU45p jacket I move freely.
After thinking. I found custom jacket to have small range of motion. CWU45p jacket is the opposite.
I do not know how to handle it? Either make an underarm gusset or a sleeve section with a large range of motion.
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2. When I move or fold my arms. The jacket is very very tight. I felt very uncomfortable. The back of the jacket was stretched. But the waistband is blunted much. With the Cwu45p, this is not the case.
The solution I come up with is increase the measurement of arm pit to pit or do a full action back like G1's Jacket and reduce the size of waist in custom jacket.
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3. The knit waistband not close to the body. To me it looks very bad.
This is probably due to the poor quality of 5* Knit or big waist measurements. I can't think of a solution yet.
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Hope everyone will explain the problems I am having. After that, I can have a second jacket that's just perfect to me.
problem number 2 which has been hit on here more recently, but there's been rumblings in previous posts, is just because you give them a bunch of measurements, doesn't mean the jacket is going to be designed/patterned correctly even if they hit all those numbers. I think there's a better chance for success for their existing models and maybe if you make some minor alterations like pocket positioning, etc. At least they'll have a better sense of those "transition" areas. I don't think their forte is filling in the blanks.
problem number 3. The I am wearing a flight jacket so I want to pretend to look like a plane pose. To be fair, my Aero Sheene does the same exact thing at 4x the cost as the 5*. As Mr. Proper suggested, underarm gussets/footballs can probably help here a little bit. But back to problem number 2, most of the people on here aren't professional designers. So while we can speculate as to why that is happening, you're really taking a guess by simply adding a 1 CM here or there or telling them to twist something or move something. To their credit (or fault depending on how you look at it), they will do exactly what you tell them to do. Whether it's a cultural thing or they just don't know better, they don't seem to chime back and say, hey, you sure you want it that way because this is what will happen. This is ultimately the risk reward of the bargain deal. If magic happens and everything turns out great, you just scored big time. But as many have found out, the first jacket or even second ends up being a R&D project. So now that 2nd or 3rd jacket ends up being more expensive or same price than had you just bought a jacket from a "higher" end brand (although there's no guarantee there either)
The sweet spot seems to be in either designing something totally from scratch and pretending to be Versace for a day. You hope you get it right and if you do, you're totally over the moon. Or, taking one of their existing patterns and honing it in with the measurements and superficial changes.
I'd suggest finding one of their stock jackets, get some fit pics, and then make some adjustments as necessary.