Fit jacket pics

[reeks1]

First up: Cafe Racer


Front and sleeves are perfect. Not too much room for any layers, though. Hmmmm

Back, to me, is a train wreck:


It's like a balloon above the kidney belt. Not psyched about that, but maybe attributable to the shoulder gussets, which I would not get anyway. Not sure that it matters, as I'm 99% going Half Belt.

Also, I do notice the "collar digging into your neck" thing. A large portion of the weight is focused on the back of my neck, rather than across the shoulders

The Half Belt:
Fit not quite as snug as the cafe racer, but close. And better for fitting some clothing underneath. Sleeves too long, imo. I'd probably go up .5" so they hit a little higher on the thumb. I'd like it a bit more trim in the midsection as well. Just a bit....


Back:
Better, but still a little poofy. Does this change as the leather softens?


I'm thinking the answer might be a "hybrid" that some of you have mentioned: 40 on top, 38 through the middle. How else to solve the excess back leather issue?

Anyway, looking forward to your expert advice.
Chris

 

[Sloan1874]

There's a bit of pulling going on around the neck-area on the Cafe Racer. The back's all over the place. The HB seems to suit your frame better, but you might want to go down a size, I think that might sort you out overall. As far as your sleeves go, the HB is fine, as they'll wrinkle up 0.5" in no time - better a bit long than too short, which the CR's looks from here. But Carrie at Insurrection will set you straight, so I wouldn't worry.

 

[strokes1251]

6 new threads in one month? That sounds like a record to me :B and as for the fit they look good if you plan on layering if not they look pretty bad good luck

 

[reeks1]

Did I violate some thread rule? It did occur to me to post these in one of my previous threads, but I assumed that people wouldn't see them if buried.

 

[Cyber Lip]

I like the HB but don't like the faux belt. I think it's creating the 'poofiness' due to the pleating. I wonder if they'd make one without it...a half belt without the half belt

 

[Fanch]

I was definitely joking when I said we would help you make up your mind. I think the side straps on the 30's HB allow a certain degree of flexibility with fit that you don't have with the CR. If I were a rider, I would prefer the CR with its collar and kidney panel. If not a rider, the HB is IMO more user friendly and honestly I prefer the look of the HB over the CR for general wear. It looks like both jackets are trying to bunch up near the small of your back - I'm not quite sure why. To me the sleeves look a bit short on the CR but more or less OK on the HB - maybe a smidgen long but maybe not with any creasing. Most important viewers are Wade and/or Carrie, optimally both. Both have forgotten more about fitting than I'll ever know. So let us know what their opinions are.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

There's a bit of pulling going on around the neck-area on the Cafe Racer. The back's all over the place. The HB seems to suit your frame better, but you might want to go down a size, I think that might sort you out overall. As far as your sleeves go, the HB is fine, as they'll wrinkle up 0.5" in no time - better a bit long than too short, which the CR looks from here. But Carrie at Insurrection will set you straight, so I wouldn't worry.

Good advice. I agree.
HD

 

[pauleway]

I think the HB is the better of the two. I would shorten the sleeves 1/2", and if you want to layer with a sweater, I would stay with that size!

 

[reeks1]

Thanks for your input!

 

[Fanch]

Let us know what Insurrection's input is/was.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Most important viewers are Wade and/or Carrie, optimally both. Both have forgotten more about fitting than I'll ever know. So let us know what their opinions are.

My issue with Insurrection is that they tend to fit jackets too small IMO. Not always, but often.

 

[ButteMT61]

My issue with Insurrection is that they tend to fit jackets too small IMO. Not always, but often.

Too small for who? You? Or you mean your preference? I actually like the way they're fitting these jackets. And keep in mind, many of their customers are bikers. When you ride, you want a tighter fit. Just my 2¢

 

[Will015]

I'm gonna make a wild guess at your back issue woes. It seems to me as if your neck might be attached to your torso in a more upright position than the Aero pattern was designed for. In both photos, though the half belt less so, your neck appears to have a fair bit of pressure on it, almost as if you aren't carrying the jacket on your shoulders but on your neck instead.

I have a feeling that any size you get is going to do this and will also be pretty uncomfortable to wear for extended periods of time. I'd be doubtful that Aero would be willing to alter a pattern to the extent it may take to move the neck hole rearward though I may be wrong.

Again just my inferences from the photos and I may be entirely wrong.

 

[Monitor]

From what can be seen in the Insurrection thread, I have to agree with Seb Lucas. Don't get me wrong, I love the way they're fitting their jackets, it's a very cool, fashion-y look and people on their photos look really freaking cool, but some of those jackets do seem a bit too small for serious riding. Last batch of pictures of a gentleman wearing a Vanson Model B is a good example of this. The sleeves on that jacket are def too short...

 

[Xenophon]

The fit preference, assuming jackets are in proportion and not with the back of the café racer as pictured earlier in the thread (and which is an obvious error in manufacture imho) is of course individual. I also like a snug fitting jacket, not something that hangs like a tent. For motorcycle riding you indeed need sleeves that are 'too long' for a normal wear jacket but otoh, how many people intend to wear it riding their bike? I own the Aero red café racer but certainly have no intention of actually riding while wearing it, leather without armour is just not safe enough to do so and frankly, considering temperature regulation, weather protection etc synthetics are simply superior to leather. Anyone claiming differently lives either in California or only take their bike out during the weekends when it's sunny.

 

[ButteMT61]

Leather is great for riding in cold, but...only if you wear an electric vest. My wife bought me one about 8 years back and I've never been the same.
Otoh, I agree that textiles are superior for inclement weather such as rain. I too have only used moto-specific jackets for safety. Also the sleeves are as you said way too long for normal wear.
I am at the point though where I would get something from Thurston for more style. I don't ride crazy like I used to, so I think a good well-fitting jacket would be fine, even if it's not a purpose built piece. I stand by the tight fit though. I see guys with crap mall jackets blowing up like weather balloons on the freeway and think that ride would suck. Flapping jackets are no good for riding.

 

[reeks1]

Bummer. They say I should try a 38 in the Half Belt. I didn't really want to wait until late Dec./Jan. to get the jacket, as Nov. Dec. are prime, weather wise (not too cold and nasty yet), but since this is a lifetime investment purchase , I thought it best to get it right. I should have PLENTY of time to wear it.

I'll post pics of the 38 once I receive it.

 

[reeks1]

So, what happens if the 38 is too tight? Consensus seems to be smaller/tighter is better than bigger, and I agree, just based on my own personal style preferences. I'm not a big guy (5'9", about 175), and I believe that fit is CRUCIAL for any garment.
Thurston Bros is telling me the same, that the jacket, even if too tight at the start, will break in to be more comfortable and mold to my form. That works for me, if it's true. So... True?

 

[reeks1]

Will,
They guy that makes my suits tells me that I have a "hollow back". If I buy off the rack suits, my tailor ALWAYS has to take in fabric at the center seam of the jacket. Maybe I'm just not built for an Aero...

 

[andyfalzon]

What is your chest size?
Hollow back sounds like cheap excuse, I am sorry.
Can you show us a photo of you in a t-shirt so we can see your hollow back?