Fit check - Aero Premier Highwayman size 42

[mvilla]

I think yours is too short and too wide.
Here are my two. Both are minus 4" from the P2P at the hem and the front drop is slightly enlarged. This reduces the boxy cut somewhat.

Your jackets certainly are some of the best fits out there. If mine gets half as nice, it's already a victory.

I couldn't drop 4" between chest and hip, though... But maybe I could get rid of at least one more inch from this jacket (my goatskin one). That would make it a 2.5in decrease. Something to think about.

I wish I could achieve the taper you got, but for that, only if I'm reborn into a different body hahaha

 

[Tom71]

I can't say for sure when the above jacket was made but I have recently ( Nov/ Dec 2022) made adjustments to the side panels of the prem High patterns to make them more " )( " shaped. This helps reduce some of the excess that some people were experiencing in the torso at belly height.

Oh, wow, you shouldn’t have said that. Do I now need my third Premier HWM???

 

[Tom71]

Your jackets certainly are some of the best fits out there. If mine gets half as nice, it's already a victory.

I couldn't drop 4" between chest and hip, though... But maybe I could get rid of at least one more inch from this jacket (my goatskin one). That would make it a 2.5in decrease. Something to think about.

I wish I could achieve the taper you got, but for that, only if I'm reborn into a different body hahaha

I actually don’t think your jacket fits bad at all. The HWM is boxy by design (only tweaked to look more „modern“ as opposed to 1950s or so in the premier cut).
If you don’t like the look, a different pattern may be more suitable, but I’d say, the PHWM of yours will look great once broken in.

 

[Tom71]

I actually don’t think your jacket fits bad at all. The HWM is boxy by design (only tweaked to look more „modern“ as opposed to 1950s or so in the premier cut).
If you don’t like the look, a different pattern may be more suitable, but I’d say, the PHWM of yours will look great once broken in.

And: neither you nor me will ever look like @MrProper , but I am sure this is not because of the jacket…

 

[mvilla]

Hey, @Tom71! Thanks for your words, mate! I can hardly wait to see the new one in Badalassi.

And yeah, there ain't no jacket in the world that would give me the appearance of @MrProper, but I think my lack of dedication and genetics have more to do with it than the jacket cut itself haha

 

[Marc mndt]

So, what's your guys thoughts? Thanks!!

Friend, In my view, the sleeves are short and the torso is a little wide.

I think yours is too short

I agree with our fellow loungers that the sleeves are too short and the torso a bit wide. I don't think you should go longer on the body though.

As you can see below as-is the jacket already lands on your hips, causing material to bunch up on your lower back. Extra body length will only result in extra material bunching up.

I would keep the body length at its current 24".

Maybe Aero will allow you to add some extra front drop instead?

 

[MrProper]

@mvilla , @Tom71
It's flattering on me, but it's overkill. I don't think it's my measurements (long and skinny), but because my jackets fit well and tend to be on the tighter side.
For example, my PHWM are short enough in the back that they don't bunch up in the back, but still long enough in the front due to the larger front drop. By being shorter, they can of course be minimally tighter at the hem.
The standard PHWM has to be longer in the back to be long enough in the front and that reinforces the boxy cut.
I am already very excited about how my Badalassi Board Racer will be.

 

[MrProper]

I agree with our fellow loungers that the sleeves are too short and the torso a bit wide. I don't think you should go longer on the body though.

As you can see below as-is the jacket already lands on your hips, causing material to bunch up on your lower back. Extra body length will only result in extra material bunching up.

I would keep the body length at its current 24".

Maybe Aero will allow you to add some extra front drop instead?

View attachment 510316

Just seen it.
Exactly the front drop is what makes it in my opinion.
For me, Aero has increased the FD and that is also the plan for my Board Racer.

 

[mvilla]

I agree with our fellow loungers that the sleeves are too short and the torso a bit wide. I don't think you should go longer on the body though.

As you can see below as-is the jacket already lands on your hips, causing material to bunch up on your lower back. Extra body length will only result in extra material bunching up.

I would keep the body length at its current 24".

Maybe Aero will allow you to add some extra front drop instead?

View attachment 510316

Thanks for that, @Marc mndt. It looks like it, doesn't it? But I can't help but feel it is too short, perhaps because it is the shortest jacket I've ever tried. I feel like my Schott 618 (although I'm not a great fan of it) is my best fitting jacket. The back length of that one is about 1/2-1 in more than this PHWM. I measured it at 24.5in, but somehow when I overlay both jackets, the difference seems to be more. Maybe the PHWM collar is a tad higher.

Anyway, do you think I could somehow stretch the sleeves in a similar way to what you did to some of your jackets? Then I'd get to keep this one haha Even though the torso seems a little wide, I'm getting the regular HWM vibes from it and don't know if I totally dislike it. I'm wearing this jacket today to see how I feel about it.

Edit: just to add a picture to illustrate (I folded in the front of the PHWM)

 

[mvilla]

Just seen it.
Exactly the front drop is what makes it in my opinion.
For me, Aero has increased the FD and that is also the plan for my Board Racer.

I asked Holly when I first started planning my PHWM, and even mentioned you. She said that as you've already made some jackets with them, y'all have a better understanding of how their jackets/your fit works. In my case, she said she wouldn't recommend having a highly customised jacket.

 

[Marc mndt]

Anyway, do you think I could somehow stretch the sleeves in a similar way to what you did to some of your jackets?

Good idea, I think you could stretch 0.5" -0.75" extra out of those sleeves.

 

[mvilla]

I've pulled the sleeves a little, probably they'll get back to the previous length, but it is enough to get an idea about the proper sleeve length. I gained about 0.5in doing so. What do you guys think?

 

[handymike]

The sleeves on this model are very trim, but yours need tapering IMO. The cuffs look large. Mine had zip sleeves. Add front drop as others have shared. Be careful with tapering the waist, too aggressive and you’ll never get it zipped.

 

[sshack]

I think your latest pics look fine, but perhaps what you're trying to achieve is the elusive "character." Your goatskin won't get as wrinkled and faded/battered looking as other leathers.

It's going to look new for a long time, which I think is a nice thing. Also, goat skin drapes much different from a horsehide or a cxl horse.

 

[mvilla]

I think your latest pics look fine, but perhaps what you're trying to achieve is the elusive "character." Your goatskin won't get as wrinkled and faded/battered looking as other leathers.

It's going to look new for a long time, which I think is a nice thing. Also, goat skin drapes much different from a horsehide or a cxl horse.

Yeah, the one I have in the oven with Aero is a Badalassi steer. Plenty of character coming from there. This one is more of a "fit jacket", however I'm starting to like it more and more and am considering keeping it as a lighter weight jacket, for rain and whatnot. I'm kinda digging the cropped boxy look of it. Obviously I still want to get that classic PHWM look (and by that I mean something close to what @MrProper has), but I'm liking this one. If the sleeves stay at the length after I tried to elongate them, I might keep it.

 

[Marc mndt]

If the sleeves stay at the length after I tried to elongate them, I might keep it.

You should stuff them with towels to keep the tension on when they're drying.

 

[Will Zach]

You should stuff them with towels to keep the tension on when they're drying.

Yes, that will prevent them from becoming thinner tubes, possibly deformed. Elongating the sleeves while wet is very difficult, I would not do it again. I gained 3/4 to 1 inch, but I busted the weakened liner in the sleeves. Much easier to stretch the jacket in the width direction.

 

[jglf]

The sleeves, front length, and torso look too short and wide. I would suggest a different pattern or custom measurement changes.

 

[mvilla]

Hey! I think I gained about 1in in sleeve length, see what you guys think

 

[dudewuttheheck]

I think the body is just too big overall on you. Either you need a size down, or you would be better off with a different pattern. I know Aero has slimmer jacket models and perhaps that is what you need, especially given the extra room at the bottom.