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Fit check - Aero Premier Highwayman size 42

mvilla

Practically Family
Messages
512
Location
Nottingham, UK
Hey, guys!

Once more I'm here! And once more I'm asking for your feedback.

I am currently in the process of making a new PHWM with Aero. Obviously, as a newbie, I still have plenty of questions on my measurements, so when I saw this jacket online on my size and at a good price, o decided to take the plunge and get it and get a better idea of how this model fits me. I already knew some of the measurements would be risky for me, and I believe the body and sleeve lengths are too short by about 1-1.5in. I'd like to know what is your guys opinions, so I can make my final decision on my make more confidently.

This one was made with goatskin, while the one I'm getting from Aero will be in Badalassi steer.

20230421_163002~2.jpg 20230421_175554.jpg 20230421_163009~2.jpg

One thing that bothered me a little is how the jacket sits wmewhat in a triangular shape on my body, as in this picture

20230421_163006~2.jpg

I can reduce this problem by cinching up the side straps, but then it destroys the look of the whole jacket

20230421_170817~2.jpg 20230421_170826~2.jpg

Makes the jacket look baggy, which changes completely how it is supposed to fit.

20230421_170807~2.jpg

So, what's your guys thoughts? Thanks!!
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,709
The Highwayman is a tricky one... Long read ahead...

Pics first then words...

Regular Highwayman (Chonky Monkeys) Black in thin stiff Vicenza, Brown in Thick pliable CXL SH
Vic HWYMAN.jpg

IMG_2753.jpg


Aero ultra slim pattern, STF/Premier, Speedway:
IMG_4003.jpg


Japans version of Aero's STF/Premier pattern, Rainbow Country Highwayman:
Image7.jpg


Aero's "slim" pattern, Cafe Racer:
IMG_4155.jpg


To get the ") (" fit, you would have to take two inches off the waist circumference (at the belly button, not hem). The current premier cut is just straight down with a slight \ / taper, so the belly button circumference is bigger than the bottom hem circumference. Cinching at the bottom hem only gives it the chonky monkey look of the original Highwayman and in that case might as well go to the chonky cut, it works better because its shorter.

The Speedway is a premier half belt, same as the P Hwyman but because of the waist tabs, it's easier to get that ") (" fit look. The waist circumference can be 2" smaller than the bottom hem circumference when using the cinching tabs a bit.

The Japanese copy of the highwayman is cut in the ") (" shape, so the waist circumference is 2" less than the bottom hem. No cinching necessary.

The Aero Cafe Racer is also cut like this ") (". The waist circumference is about 2" less than the bottom circumference. No cinching necessary. This is actually closest to the Japanese Highwayman, just an inch longer.

So to get the slim Japanese look in the Aero, simply ask for the Cafe Racer type ") (" shape. Or a nip at the waist line.

I can understand Aero staying true to the boxy cut on the original chonky monkey Highwayman but for the premier Highwayman I'd thought it would benefit to have it fit more like the Japanese or their own (cinched) Speedway, or Cafe Racer fit.

Be aware, you simply cannot gain weight in the belly section with the ") (" cut. That's why I have two chonky monkey Highwaymans...

Also your goatskin PHwyman must have shortened sleeves and back length, they should be at least 25" straight down by default, yours looks more 24" to 24.5".

Badalassi is the nicest leather Aero has now. Very good deal compared to others.

Good luck.
 

mvilla

Practically Family
Messages
512
Location
Nottingham, UK
The Highwayman is a tricky one... Long read ahead...

Pics first then words...

Regular Highwayman (Chonky Monkeys) Black in thin stiff Vicenza, Brown in Thick pliable CXL SH
View attachment 510098
View attachment 510099

Aero ultra slim pattern, STF/Premier, Speedway:
View attachment 510100

Japans version of Aero's STF/Premier pattern, Rainbow Country Highwayman:
View attachment 510101

Aero's "slim" pattern, Cafe Racer:
View attachment 510102

To get the ") (" fit, you would have to take two inches off the waist circumference (at the belly button, not hem). The current premier cut is just straight down with a slight \ / taper, so the belly button circumference is bigger than the bottom hem circumference. Cinching at the bottom hem only gives it the chonky monkey look of the original Highwayman and in that case might as well go to the chonky cut, it works better because its shorter.

The Speedway is a premier half belt, same as the P Hwyman but because of the waist tabs, it's easier to get that ") (" fit look. The waist circumference can be 2" smaller than the bottom hem circumference when using the cinching tabs a bit.

The Japanese copy of the highwayman is cut in the ") (" shape, so the waist circumference is 2" less than the bottom hem. No cinching necessary.

The Aero Cafe Racer is also cut like this ") (". The waist circumference is about 2" less than the bottom circumference. No cinching necessary. This is actually closest to the Japanese Highwayman, just an inch longer.

So to get the slim Japanese look in the Aero, simply ask for the Cafe Racer type ") (" shape. Or a nip at the waist line.

I can understand Aero staying true to the boxy cut on the original chonky monkey Highwayman but for the premier Highwayman I'd thought it would benefit to have it fit more like the Japanese or their own (cinched) Speedway, or Cafe Racer fit.

Be aware, you simply cannot gain weight in the belly section with the ") (" cut. That's why I have two chonky monkey Highwaymans...

Also your goatskin PHwyman must have shortened sleeves and back length, they should be at least 25" straight down by default, yours looks more 24" to 24.5".

Badalassi is the nicest leather Aero has now. Very good deal compared to others.

Good luck.
Oh wow, @Canuck Panda Thanks for the thorough reply.

That rainbow country is fantastic! Really like it.

This one (goat) is indeed 24" body length, with the sleeves nearing that much. On my own (the one I'm getting from Aero) I had first asked for 25", so in that department I think it was about right.

Now, regarding the ) ( fit, I can see what you mean. I think it would fit much better if I could get to that shape. In this standard fit, I feel the waist and hem regions are a little too spacious.

Perhaps @photo2u has a point and this pattern ain't right for me, but this would be too much of a heartbreak and I really don't want to accept it as true for now haha
 
Last edited:

sshack

A-List Customer
Messages
384
Location
California
The Highwayman is a tricky one... Long read ahead...

Pics first then words...

Regular Highwayman (Chonky Monkeys) Black in thin stiff Vicenza, Brown in Thick pliable CXL SH
View attachment 510098
View attachment 510099

Aero ultra slim pattern, STF/Premier, Speedway:
View attachment 510100

Japans version of Aero's STF/Premier pattern, Rainbow Country Highwayman:
View attachment 510101

Aero's "slim" pattern, Cafe Racer:
View attachment 510102

To get the ") (" fit, you would have to take two inches off the waist circumference (at the belly button, not hem). The current premier cut is just straight down with a slight \ / taper, so the belly button circumference is bigger than the bottom hem circumference. Cinching at the bottom hem only gives it the chonky monkey look of the original Highwayman and in that case might as well go to the chonky cut, it works better because its shorter.
....
Agreed. Hwyman is just a boxy pattern. If you size down to make it "look cool," then your comfort suffers and you can barely stretch your arms. At least you got the goat skin which is more forgiving. Highwayman is one where you basically set your priorities of fit vs fashion and then pick your poison.
 

mvilla

Practically Family
Messages
512
Location
Nottingham, UK
Agreed. Hwyman is just a boxy pattern. If you size down to make it "look cool," then your comfort suffers and you can barely stretch your arms. At least you got the goat skin which is more forgiving. Highwayman is one where you basically set your priorities of fit vs fashion and then pick your poison.

But this one is the Premier HWM, nevertheless I do agree that when cinched it looks just like the regular HWM.

Anyway, this one I'm considering more or less as a fit jacket for what I'm cooking with Aero... That's why I'm asking for feedback, so then I can make a more educated decision when I nail down the specs on the one in the makes.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,709
On your goat jacket I think the shorter length also made the front "\" shape worse than it is. The ") (" shape jacket only works when the length cover the belt, need that extra length up front.
When the length is in the 24" range or not covering the belt, the CHP type of \ / taper jacket works much better.
 

Hide'n'seek

One of the Regulars
Messages
283
Location
Scotland
The Highwayman is a tricky one... Long read ahead...

Pics first then words...

Regular Highwayman (Chonky Monkeys) Black in thin stiff Vicenza, Brown in Thick pliable CXL SH
View attachment 510098
View attachment 510099

Aero ultra slim pattern, STF/Premier, Speedway:
View attachment 510100

Japans version of Aero's STF/Premier pattern, Rainbow Country Highwayman:
View attachment 510101

Aero's "slim" pattern, Cafe Racer:
View attachment 510102

To get the ") (" fit, you would have to take two inches off the waist circumference (at the belly button, not hem). The current premier cut is just straight down with a slight \ / taper, so the belly button circumference is bigger than the bottom hem circumference. Cinching at the bottom hem only gives it the chonky monkey look of the original Highwayman and in that case might as well go to the chonky cut, it works better because its shorter.

The Speedway is a premier half belt, same as the P Hwyman but because of the waist tabs, it's easier to get that ") (" fit look. The waist circumference can be 2" smaller than the bottom hem circumference when using the cinching tabs a bit.

The Japanese copy of the highwayman is cut in the ") (" shape, so the waist circumference is 2" less than the bottom hem. No cinching necessary.

The Aero Cafe Racer is also cut like this ") (". The waist circumference is about 2" less than the bottom circumference. No cinching necessary. This is actually closest to the Japanese Highwayman, just an inch longer.

So to get the slim Japanese look in the Aero, simply ask for the Cafe Racer type ") (" shape. Or a nip at the waist line.

I can understand Aero staying true to the boxy cut on the original chonky monkey Highwayman but for the premier Highwayman I'd thought it would benefit to have it fit more like the Japanese or their own (cinched) Speedway, or Cafe Racer fit.

Be aware, you simply cannot gain weight in the belly section with the ") (" cut. That's why I have two chonky monkey Highwaymans...

Also your goatskin PHwyman must have shortened sleeves and back length, they should be at least 25" straight down by default, yours looks more 24" to 24.5".

Badalassi is the nicest leather Aero has now. Very good deal compared to others.

Good luck.
I can't say for sure when the above jacket was made but I have recently ( Nov/ Dec 2022) made adjustments to the side panels of the prem High patterns to make them more " )( " shaped. This helps reduce some of the excess that some people were experiencing in the torso at belly height.
 

mvilla

Practically Family
Messages
512
Location
Nottingham, UK
I can't say for sure when the above jacket was made but I have recently ( Nov/ Dec 2022) made adjustments to the side panels of the prem High patterns to make them more " )( " shaped. This helps reduce some of the excess that some people were experiencing in the torso at belly height.

June 2021, by the pocket tag. Good to know!
 

Psant25

One Too Many
Messages
1,607
I love my 2 standard highwaymans size 38 with taper of torso/hem to size 36. Wish I would have done that about five highwaymans ago…

I like the body length on yours maybe add 1/2 inch and get jeans a little higher.

I would just caution you getting the body too long on this premier cut comes out looking like a tube sock imo.

And yes add some sleeve length 1 inch.
 

mvilla

Practically Family
Messages
512
Location
Nottingham, UK
I love my 2 standard highwaymans size 38 with taper of torso/hem to size 36. Wish I would have done that about five highwaymans ago…

I like the body length on yours maybe add 1/2 inch and get jeans a little higher.

I would just caution you getting the body too long on this premier cut comes out looking like a tube sock imo.

And yes add some sleeve length 1 inch.
Cool, thanks for the tips! In those pictures I'm wearing a Levi's 501, when wearing IH 888 with a higher rise it works a little better

20230421_204335~2.jpg 20230421_204325~2.jpg

P.S.: apologies for the shitty(er) pictures. My wife got fed up of taking pictures for me, now I'm on my own lol
 

sshack

A-List Customer
Messages
384
Location
California
And get the Highwayman label. That was one thing I overlooked. They are cooler than the regular labels.

View attachment 510147
View attachment 510148
Since when did this happen?! These are BOSS. I take back everything I ever said about the Aero fit.

But in all seriousness, I really wish Japanese makers would offer better linings. All the Aero's I've gone through over the years have had gorgeous wool tartan linings. And high quality cotton twill sleeve linings.

My experience with Japanese jacket linings has been... meh.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,709
But I didn't know about the top one... That one also looks nice, is that leather?
Since when did this happen?! These are BOSS. I take back everything I ever said about the Aero fit.

But in all seriousness, I really wish Japanese makers would offer better linings. All the Aero's I've gone through over the years have had gorgeous tartan linings. And high quality cotton twill sleeve linings.

My experience with Japanese jacket linings has been... meh.

The leather one is an older one. If they still have it in stock that's an awesome label.
 

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