First Leather - The Real McCoy's Buco J-100

[technovox]

Brooks, Bates, Taubers, Schott, etc. have the same feature. Fidelity, among others, produced CR with the exact same collar as J-100; single snap mandarin collar. Up until recently, Brimaco's were probably the only CR's with side pockets; all the other CR's had only two chest pockets (except earlier Harley jackets). Top sleeve zippers can be seen on many Fidelity and Brooks jackets... Apart from the lack of bi-swing back, there isn't really anything overly distinctive about the J-100.

Exactly. And even that one distinctive Buco feature, the lack of a bi-swing back, can be found on other vintage cafe racers such as a Harley Sporster, Herm's Leather Togs, Shields of Toronto.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I note that in 1965-75 Reed made a jacket with all those features, almost Identical to the Brooks, right down to the action back configuration.

 

[ProteinNerd]

I'm not sure but is the diamond J-100 longer than the RMC one?

I think generally they are.

My size 40 DD Buco measures (26.5") just on 1.5 inches longer than my size 40 Board Racer (25")which I think looks pretty much the same fit as Benj's Buco, if that helps.

 

[Blackadder]

Good point. But then I was looking at an original Buco on ebay that just got posted today, and the main zip looks like it goes all the way down. But perhaps the zip was replaced? Later model?

Real McCoy's made a Buco J-57, a supposedly shorter version. It sits above the waist (hip bone) like a Vanson Chopper so the zipper can go all the way to the bottom. The RM J-57 was discontinued. I have seen a comparison photo of the original in one of RM's old catalogue but I can't find any photo of an original online.

 

[Benj]

I could be wrong, but doesn't Dave make it with custom measuremnts? So it could be long or short depending on your preferences... Another benefit of using makers like Himel, Good Wear, Aero, etc.

I still think that if you can fit it, there's nothing like the RMC! I've worn this as much as possible since I got it, already feels like it's breaking in nicely

 

[felix03]

Benj,

Love the Stockburg (and the jacket too!). I'm a huge fan of mid and long wallets, and I've got a bit of a soft spot for Kawatako's offerings.

Here's my Kawatako mid in English bridle leather:

 

[Carlos840]

Sorry for the slight derail, but have a look at this guys work!
I just ordered this wallet from him, and for it is amazing...
Made to order, super fast shipping, great craftsmanship, great price, and a really nice guy.

http://signonleather.com/portfel-hjalmarr/

 

[Himelbros Himel]

just throwing it out there....there were several different versions of the j-100 ranging from the late 40s until the company went under in the late 60s and the patterns moved over to brooks.The unique thing about the j-100 is the pattern changed as buco moved from what appears to be a hand cut early pattern to a more "generic" production model. This is typical of companies that move to a larger volume and try to create patterns that accomodate the average. RM is famous for using original jackets taking them apart and following the pattern exactly which is as authentic as you can get if you want an original buco...the shinki leather is a little stiffer and drier then the original buco leather which was almost always chrome tanned and a little more pliable. The unique componant of the racing shirt version is that it was originally designed to be worn with high wasted riding pants and was a longer almost british influenced cut which shortened over time and with the change in riders style from the high waisted pants. I spent a lot of time developing my kensington from an early buco jacket that was an unlined welted racing shirt. The added feature of welts and the very unique twist in the pattern made the jacket very functional in the arms forward position...which is trickier then just the traditional high armpit in well designed jackets. Also the arm shape works with out the biswing back..that means more room on the elbow to accomdate expansion, and a tighter cuff to keep the arm from riding up and a large v on the front to make sure the hip spread works and the whole jacket doesnt rise up...McCoys jacket is very authentic...some makers have great patterns...a lot of other makers suffer from pattern issues and other design problems...Shinki is beautiful leather...finish issues have to do with wear and hardness of finish and the type of dye or no dye under the pigment...side note armpit wear on the finish is usually the result of wearing back pack straps that are made of nylon or other hard material that wear off the paint...light wear often helps the leather age out very pretty like...
best
Himel

 

[Benj]

Damn, Dave dropping knowledge!! Really appreciate you chiming in. I'd heard from many people that RMC were as real as it gets, and while I believe them, it's nice to actually know what exactly makes them special.

Interesting note about the pit wear, I should be careful wearing backpacks!

 

[navetsea]

a great read awesome

basically the puller tab is the same material as the rest of the jacket right? so once the finish paint chipped/ rubbed off that would be what shown trough right?
if somebody wants ever black jacket probably then it has to be made from struck through black dyed leather, or even that might fade into grey/ even cream once bleached by UV exposure?
is there any method to safely speed up this bleaching process?

 

[Benj]

Exactly, the RMC actually comes in two different colors.

Here's what the deep black tassel looks like

Personally I think that the tea core looks cooler and more vintage, but I'm pretty sure that the deep black really just black forever.

I think that it's sketchy to try and prematurely age a jacket, I've never seen one that looked good. There's even a speeded up aged RMC (I think it's been speeded up) that doesn't look good at all.

 

[Superfluous]

Dave, I wish you would post more often and share your vast knowledge and experience. You have forgotten more about leather jackets than most of us will ever know.

Ben, you are right about the two different versions of black Shinki. I personally prefer the fully black version. That said, the black tea core is undeniably more interesting as it ages. RMC and Himel offer both.

 

[ButteMT61]

I agree on the Shinki (great info here tonight) and would not use it if I were to do an unlined jacket or one I wanted to form to me like softer hides would.
What's nice is it holds form well. It's not hard or uncomfortable, but depending on what you want, it may not be the best choice.
For riding jackets, I prefer thicker and softer myself.
Basically a good cow/steer or buffalo. Some horse would also work well. Sorry, babbling now. But I want a Buco after this

 

[Benj]

Personally, I think that this leather is perfect for forming...

When you pick it up it feels heavy (to me and anyone else whose not used to Aeros), but when you put it on its light and comfortable.

I think that if it were heavier, it would be too hard to mold to your body or at least take a long time, and if it was lighter and softer it would just fall like denim and not take a shape.

I'm really impressed... Retailers need to do a better job capturing the essence of the leather in their pics! I can't help but laugh at reading things that the Japanese press the character of the leather into oblivion...

 

[navetsea]

it is normal to not feel the weight of the jacket once being put on, on the hanger though, my 3kg thick cow successfully distort the shape of the metal hook behind my door, since the total weight with it's broad wooden hanger is even heavier. but what I like the most from a thick hide is the sleeves, they stay round even on the hanger, looks cooler as a room decoration when not in use lol

 

[Benj]

Ha, I know what you mean... Will take a pic of mine when home

 

[Benj]

Darn thing has a life of its own...

 

[nick123]

This is definitely the year of the cafe racer.

 

[ProteinNerd]

Darn thing has a life of its own...

...that things got swagger all on its own

 

[navetsea]

looks cool on the hanger, wear pattern looks nice on the sleeves and upper chest, your hanger has wide rounded shoulder ends right.