First Crosszip jacket, planning to have one made. Advice, please.

[Hobbes1]

As stated, I'm thinking about having a crosszip made. I know that I want a low-profile one, rather than the "rock-star" type. To that end, it would have two handwarmer pockets, one external pocket with snap closure and one internal pocket. No epaulets, no external, zippered pocket(s), no studs, no belt or belt loops. Probably will have a kidney panel or half belt and a single or double yoke on the back but otherwise a single panel of leather for the back. I haven't decided on zip sleeves vs horn button (maybe even storm cuffs inside the sleeve cuff.

My question: As I have some experience with ordering a MTO Highwayman style and a CR style jacket, what tip/tricks/pitfalls should I be aware of, when ordering a crosszip?
Any guidance the more experienced here can help me with, is greatly appreciated.

I have been looking around in the Crosszip Nation thread and I have seen a few that I really like. Mostly like the 30's, brown crosszip that @tmitchell59 posted and some others...I think @Marc mndt had an Aero Bird of Prey that looked low key but great. Any thoughts and constructive help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Jin431]

You pretty much know why you want so that's a great start. I would not deviate from your plan, it's solid. I would recommend to go for a trim look and request for the sleeves to be slimmed down for a better silhouette.

I think @JustinW can certainly help you with this, he has that awesome brown field Leathers jacket, there's a dedicated thread for that jacket so it's a good read and will be an excellent resource for you.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/field-leathers-mc-mlc-jacket.103718/

I also have a low key 30s cross zip in Tobacco Badalassi but it's not as clean as @JustinW. If I could re do my order, I would opt to delete the false half belt and western yoke but keep the side adjusters, add zippers to the hand warmer and make the sleeve slimmer.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

Besides all the options from a style perspective, which you seem to have a good grasp on. FIT FIT FIT I know it's important on every jacket, but imo cross zip fit is #1. Can you rock open and closed? Needs a good taper. Shoulders, you want them drooping off or high and tight? Length, length, length. Few different ways to go, at the belt slightly below (since no belt on the jacket, looks cool imo), covering belt, past the belt and into the zipper?

 

[AeroFan_07]

Hobbes - how about something like this one? It was Tony's originally, I had it a while, sold it quite a while back. But could give some good ideas from this or another maker:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/aero-bootlegger-brown-cxl-steerhide-size-40.95716/

And remember, brass zippers on brown leather looks pretty cool, avoids the "rocker" look and will only get better with time.

 

[tmitchell59]

Mostly like the 30's, brown crosszip that @tmitchell59 posted and some others..

I believe this is the jacket. Mission Leather, San Francisco c.1937-Horsehide. Aviator Style. Size: 44/46. Very nice example of a 1930s small makers jacket. It is a very comfortable fitting jacket. I think I have fit pics.

I have quite a few others from this era that would make interesting jackets. Each one feels a bit different.

I have a couple of others too in Aviator Style.

 

[tmitchell59]

This Californian has been reproduced by Dave Sheeley

 

[tmitchell59]

Late 1940s Sears Hercules

No Name

 

[navetsea]

from what I gathered by collecting pictures thanks to TM and Carlos, I come to conclusion the size of the lapel is directly linked to the slant of the zip, cross zip has many ranges from what basically an off-center almost vertical zip, slight slant, curving midway slant, heavy slant from bottom.

some will make small lapel, some make thin long lapel, some make very triangular lapel but predetermined like the one with slight slant but midway curving into heavier slant (that where the lapel will fold), some make wide and can be long lapel depending where the snap position is.

the angle of the zip is also somewhat dictated by the length of the jacket, shorter jacket have heavier slant than the long version.

I personally belief there is something about golden proportion so I will fold my lapel at 2/5 the length of the zip.

 

[Monitor]

My question: As I have some experience with ordering a MTO Highwayman style and a CR style jacket, what tip/tricks/pitfalls should I be aware of, when ordering a crosszip?
Any guidance the more experienced here can help me with, is greatly appreciated.

The biggest pitfall you should be aware of before ordering a cross zip is thinking of it as being anything other / more than just a leather jacket. It's not.
In other words, there are no pitfalls and no secret tips you ought to know. Just settle on details & features you want on your jacket & buy it in your size, which will be exactly the same as any other style you wear.

Note, though, that there aren't any makers out there that will mess with their patterns just for you so make sure their stock version of the style looks / fits good, prior to ordering a custom made one.

 

[Hobbes1]

The biggest pitfall you should be aware of before ordering a cross zip is thinking of it as being anything other / more than just a leather jacket. It's not.
In other words, there are no pitfalls and no secret tips you ought to know. Just settle on details & features you want on your jacket & buy it in your size, which will be exactly the same as any other style you wear.

Note, though, that there aren't any makers out there that will mess with their patterns just for you so make sure their stock version of the style looks / fits good, prior to ordering a custom made one.

One thing that I am seeing in some of these CZ style jackets is the sleeve curvature. This is most notable in the second picture above, Mission jacket, posted by @tmitchell59 . I have noted that on the Field Leather jacket another member has (@JustinW ) and it looks very nice. I wasn't sure if this was something special to request or if there was some combination of typical style that results in a more curved sleeve relative to shoulder than on some other examples of the CZ style.

 

[Monitor]

One thing that I am seeing in some of these CZ style jackets is the sleeve curvature. This is most notable in the second picture above, Mission jacket, posted by @tmitchell59 . I have noted that on the Field Leather jacket another member has (@JustinW ) and it looks very nice. I wasn't sure if this was something special to request or if there was some combination of typical style that results in a more curved sleeve relative to shoulder than on some other examples of the CZ style.

Sleeve curvature is a part of a pattern. I'm fairly certain the Mission jacket above doesn't actually have curved sleeves, just came out looking that way in the photos. This would not have been utilized it in 1930's for sure as it's a relatively recent upgrade.

And also, it's not a feature that's unique to any particular style of jacket. You will find it primarily in mandarin collared racing jackets though it's occasionally seen in cross zips, too. Even Vanson Rocker jackets mostly all have straight sleeves.

From the looks of it, Field Leathers does seem to incorporate this feature into their pattern but it would be best if actual owners of FL jackets could confirm this.

 

[Marc mndt]

From the looks of it, Field Leathers does seem to incorporate this feature into their pattern but it would be best if actual owners of FL jackets could confirm this.

FL sleeve pattern