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Field Leathers

BlueSteel

One of the Regulars
Messages
140
Great jacket great fit. Congrats.

This pattern probably showcase what Greg can do with his machines the best. Just amazing. This was also the pattern I was going for until I saw the Peter's pattern test. I have a thing for Peter's pattern so that will be next. But this triple stitched pattern is still on my list.

Navy Shinki looks like its got good heft. I like that. Enjoy your jacket.

Thank you! Good heft indeed. This is not the thinner/pliable stuff. I agree that this pattern really highlights Greg's stitching skills.

If you see this jacket strolling around Vancouver, it is me! If you see a nearly identical one in Europe, that would likely be @Tom71
 

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,286
Hello all! I booked my place in Greg's queue back in June and I know there's still a long way ahead of me, but of course I am already thinking of my future jacket, and I wanted to discuss with you guys what do you think about my idea.

I've always wanted a nice 30s deco cross-chest jacket, Greg has some beautiful examples and after seeing Marc's last jacket I knew that he will do an outstanding job.

Here is my mood board of references, as you can see it's all very classic. I want a nice clean front with a nice pocket disposition, and a classic deco back, not too simple, not too complicated.

View attachment 459883 View attachment 459884

I am not an expert in patterns by any means, so the design I've done is completely based on aesthetics, but I hope Greg can get closer to this!

View attachment 459885

What do you guys think? Any suggestions? The type of leather is something I haven't thought about yet, I'll cross that bridge at the time, but I feel like it should be at least on the softer side, nothing heavy.
Love it. For my own preferences, I could do without the vertical zipper pocket. But that's my personal taste. Nothing wrong with what you put together here.
 

58panheadfan

One Too Many
Messages
1,661
Location
Switzerland
I'm excited to see the first jackets (fit pics) with the support of the new pattern maker... the cut of the shoulder and the long waiting times were always reasons for me not to place an order. Here is an example* of the old shoulder cut, not very flattering although the jacket is very nice itself. I'm sure Greg will solve this prob, because it seems he's a great craftsman, what I have seen and his jackets are exceptionally handcrafted...

FL_FL_Shoulder_1.png
FL_FL_Shoulder_2.png
FL_FL_Shoulder_3.png

Pictures sourced from a publicly accessible insta profile and are only intended as illustrative material.
 
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58panheadfan

One Too Many
Messages
1,661
Location
Switzerland
Hello all! I booked my place in Greg's queue back in June and I know there's still a long way ahead of me, but of course I am already thinking of my future jacket, and I wanted to discuss with you guys what do you think about my idea.

I've always wanted a nice 30s deco cross-chest jacket, Greg has some beautiful examples and after seeing Marc's last jacket I knew that he will do an outstanding job.

Here is my mood board of references, as you can see it's all very classic. I want a nice clean front with a nice pocket disposition, and a classic deco back, not too simple, not too complicated.

I am not an expert in patterns by any means, so the design I've done is completely based on aesthetics, but I hope Greg can get closer to this!

View attachment 459885

What do you guys think? Any suggestions? The type of leather is something I haven't thought about yet, I'll cross that bridge at the time, but I feel like it should be at least on the softer side, nothing heavy.

Very cool, with w-collar/cross zip Jackets you have to consider how big the front flap should be. I personally prefer a smaller, higher fitting flap. From my experience if the flap is too big and reaches almost to the navel, the jacket is uncomfortable to wear when open or there is a massive front hang...
 
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BlueSteel

One of the Regulars
Messages
140
Do you know, was it made with the new updated shoulder pattern?

Hi!

I do not know the answer there. But I can tell you that when I received the toile mock-up, the top hem of the shoulders were extending too far beyond my actual shoulders. So when I asked for adjustments, one of those was to narrow the top shoulder hem by 1 inch on each side, which Greg did.
 
Messages
16,842
I'm excited to see the first jackets (fit pics) with the support of the new pattern maker... the cut of the shoulder and the long waiting times were always reasons for me not to place an order. Here is an example* of the old shoulder cut, not very flattering although the jacket is very nice itself. I'm sure Greg will solve this prob, because it seems he's a great craftsman, what I have seen and his jackets are exceptionally handcrafted...

View attachment 460056 View attachment 460057 View attachment 460059
Pictures sourced from a publicly accessible insta profile and are only intended as illustrative material.

Ah, there he is, just as I finally began relaxing, thinking, wishing, hoping I finally managed to block his account enough freaking times so that he'd never appear on my IG again. But there he is, that beard, those thick rimmed frames, the cap and all...
 

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,730
Location
Europe
Thank you! Good heft indeed. This is not the thinner/pliable stuff. I agree that this pattern really highlights Greg's stitching skills.

If you see this jacket strolling around Vancouver, it is me! If you see a nearly identical one in Europe, that would likely be @Tom71

Yes, very similar to mine. Mine has slightly more grainy hide and fits a bit slimmer. That said, I wouldn´t mind more layering room and an inch more in lenght.

I´d say: Very well done indeed!
 

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,730
Location
Europe
Ah, there he is, just as I finally began relaxing, thinking, wishing, hoping I finally managed to block his account enough freaking times so that he'd never appear on my IG again. But there he is, that beard, those thick rimmed frames, the cap and all...

Hahaha, similar sentiments here....
 

BlueSteel

One of the Regulars
Messages
140
Yes, very similar to mine. Mine has slightly more grainy hide and fits a bit slimmer. That said, I wouldn´t mind more layering room and an inch more in lenght.

I´d say: Very well done indeed!

Thank you (and many thanks for sharing tips via PM)!

It would have been a slimmer fit, but I lost about 15 pounds in weight from the time the pattern was made to when the jacket arrived. Briefly thought about contacting Greg about that, but I still had the toile and when I tried it on again I thought to myself that the fit was still nice - there would just be a bit of room for layering...so I stuck to my original measurements!
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,709
But Greg's pattern is just same as Thedi's and every other slim straight pattern in terms of square shoulders no? If his is bad then is Thedi's also bad?

I don't think so.

Greg's sizing is tagged differently and if you go back the thread you see me bitching about that, but so is my Thedi, and many Japanese brands. Now that I look at them all in the same light.

Thedi Markos Cow Fit 004outside1.JPG


But yes, the FW La Brea has A2 style rounded shoulders and not the square ones. But is that the gold standard for leathertog style? I don't know that and can't say that until I get them all and see it at once. There are square shoulders Langlitz out there too you know. And my next Langlitz just might be that.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,323
But Greg's pattern is just same as Thedi's and every other slim straight pattern in terms of square shoulders no?
1) Greg's and Thedi's patterns are anything but the same

2) shoulder shape is not an inherent feature of a 'slim straight pattern'
There are square shoulders Langlitz out there too you know. And my next Langlitz just might be that.
True, why? Because shoulder shape is a choice. (And there's no such thing as an American, Japanese or European shoulder shape)

Here's a Langlitz order form.

F3293AB0-31F6-4084-A972-9CED41EB4A0F.jpeg
 

Jaime

One of the Regulars
Messages
129
Location
Spain

Blackadder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,825
Location
China
1) Greg's and Thedi's patterns are anything but the same

2) shoulder shape is not an inherent feature of a 'slim straight pattern'

True, why? Because shoulder shape is a choice. (And there's no such thing as an American, Japanese or European shoulder shape)

Here's a Langlitz order form.

View attachment 460154
This actually resembles a custom suit notes/form with a different focus. In stead of riding position, a suit form would have body shape and posture. I am beginning to understand why Langlitz is so highly regarded. Still it is the starting phase before fitting.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,709
Square shoulders:

FL
IMG_8745.JPG

Thedi
IMG_8784.JPG

LW
IMG_8915.JPG

JL M500
IMG_8954.JPG


Not square shoulders
FW
IMG_8823.JPG

Langlitz
IMG_8863.JPG


Subjectively, I have three favorites here, two of them square shoulder, one of them is not, all three have leathers on the thick side, not hard to guess on that one.

I don't think square shoulder is the devil. Greg size tag is misleading and I have bitched about that. But so are many other brands.

I am comfortable with my next FL being a square shoulder. And I also plan to order my next LAnglitz with the square shoulder or the original Ross cut like the ones I see in Japan which actually cost more than a freaking FW. Very shocked at how high end Langlitz is over there on the other side of the PAcific.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,323
But Greg's pattern is just same as Thedi's and every other slim straight pattern in terms of square shoulders no? If his is bad then is Thedi's also bad?
Your particular Thedi is square but that doesn't mean that all Thedi's are square or that Thedi patterns = FL patterns

98B93FE7-568B-4247-99D8-A155BEBF9524.jpeg

Thedi vs Thedi

BEA1046F-C1FC-4D0A-88BF-30E47CB5C2B8.jpeg

Thedi vs FW

Greg size tag is misleading

I agree, some of my jackets are size 40, most of them are size 42. I own exactly one size 44.

00181D38-7AF5-4A12-8CE4-AFB2BBEEC9CB.jpeg


Edit: typo
 
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Spiney

One of the Regulars
Messages
223
Square shoulders:

FL
View attachment 460219
Thedi
View attachment 460220
LW
View attachment 460221
JL M500
View attachment 460222

Not square shoulders
FW
View attachment 460223
Langlitz
View attachment 460224

Subjectively, I have three favorites here, two of them square shoulder, one of them is not, all three have leathers on the thick side, not hard to guess on that one.

I don't think square shoulder is the devil. Greg size tag is misleading and I have bitched about that. But so are many other brands.

I am comfortable with my next FL being a square shoulder. And I also plan to order my next LAnglitz with the square shoulder or the original Ross cut like the ones I see in Japan which actually cost more than a freaking FW. Very shocked at how high end Langlitz is over there on the other side of the PAcific.
Some great jackets there.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,709
The FL jacket is tagged 44, The Canvas Thedi is tagged XXL, The Markos ealier above was just XL, LW tagged 46, Johnson M500 is stock size 40, Langlitz didn't put a tag in my Cascade, I will ask on my next one, La Brea is tagged 44.

The FL jacket I have now is from his sale page that was meant for someone taller than me with 27" sleeves straight down. All other jackets are 26" sleeve length (+/- 0.5") range except Langlitz I asked for extra length but it goes air tight so hard to tell.

Every jacket above is rocking about the same chest width, 23" plus or minus half inch, with the exception of the Cascade which is 24" or 26" with the footballs. That was ordered as second loosest fit with sweatshirt under. So if you want slimmer Langlitz, they have the super tight fit option too. It reminds me mostly of my Lewis Mk1. Almost exact same jacket but made from two very different shops. Did Ross Langlitz have British family roots?

What I was trying to get across was that, and you may find this subjective instead objective:
1) square shoulder isn't "bad" everyone has one or more.
2) there are similarities across brands, never exact the same, but similar yes.

The trick is to find out what their tag size means. Everyone measure or look at their measurements different than the next person. But one of the size from every brand will fit just about every one. I had trouble with Greg's size 42, and I bitched about it. I felt it was unfair for him now looking back, so I am trying to write a similarity comparison review. I go through this pain joy bipolar emotion with every single brand. Try to find out what their sizing is. But I am very certain that a size in every brand will fit me. Sometimes two. I just don't know which one until I get them...

My sale page Greg jacket was machined better than my (second hand) custom ran La Brea, but no more than my Rainbow Country batch ran jackets. They are same level in terms of machine skills and quality. Rainbow Country makes the very best machined products in my experience, and now Greg too. But they don't make every thing and they don't make every size. This is why I am still in Greg's queue. I want a Rainbow Country made Peters but it's not available from Japan, not in navy with caramel contrast stitch.
 

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