Anyone have experience with fits on the Fidelity pea coats? I'm something of a slim build 38, and was wondering if I should still go for the 40 as I've heard suggested.
I don't know about the Fidelity peacoats, but with the issue peacoats, it is best to go with your normal size. You would still have room for a sweater when it really gets cold. It has been my limited experience with civilian peacoats that they are more roomy that the issue coats. I prefer the fit of the military peacoat.
With the excellent quality of the vintage issue peacoats that are available, you might want to consider getting one of those. Sterlingware is considered the top of the line manufacturer of civilian peacoats.* I have one of their civilian peacoats, and the quality is not even close to the quality of the pre 1980 issue coats. But everyone has different ideas about what they like; that's why we have so many choices.
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*Sterlingware also has the contract for the durrent issue peacoats. I have one of those as well. I much prefer the pre 1980 issue peacoats.
I bought one of these three years ago; I am a 44L, I bought a 46L. The quality of the wool was fine for the price, but the fit was off. Tight across the shoulders and positively swimming with much extra fabric around the waist. I have narrow hips, so that doesn't help, but I find that peacoats, when I try them on, tend to be tight in the shoulders and sort of swinging loose lower down--perhaps useful in a coat designed to be worn while doing manual labor. I like the idea, but I haven't found a peacoat that doesn't seem to have wider hips than shoulders, Fidelity included.
Sounds as if you haven't tried the vintage issue peacoat. I am a 42 with narrow hips and slim waisted. The issue coats are a perfect fit. Sufficient room in the chest and shoulders for a sweater under the coat, and a nice fit in the waist and hips. The civilian version peacoats I have tried have the the same problems of fit that you mentioned.
Peacoat, I know you're advising me to buy vintage, but since you've tried the Sterlingwear, I'm wondering if those coats have the same hip-wider-than-shoulders issue or if they are of a more trim fit?
Before I answered your question, I tried on both the civilian Sterlingware and a vintage--the first vintage I grabbed was a 1968 Pembroke, size 42. I lifted my arms on both coats to check the taper. The Sterlingware has a slight taper from the armpits to the end of the coat, so it isn't a complete block. The vintage has a more pronounced taper that gives a really nice fit, not only in the chest, but at the waist and in the hips as well.
What really sets the vintage apart from its civilian 3rd cousin is the quality of the wool. There is no comparison. The only way to get the really nice quality wool is to get a pre 1980 peacoat. Sort of like a 1960's G-1 compared to a 1970's G-1. But that is the subject of a different discussion.
Go with the vintage. They look better, feel better, fit better (if you are trim) and most of all, they keep you warmer and dryer (the tight weave makes them water resistant). Hope this helps.
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