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Federation IV sizing

jthix

New in Town
Messages
48
Location
Alabama, USA
I'm currently thinking about getting a Federation IV in moonstone and I understand that they run a little small (I've heard that they are a quarter size small).

My first hat was an Akubra Squatter and when I measured my head I think I pulled the tape a little too tight and got a size of 58, so the hat itself is snug. It's not that big of a deal, I can still wear the hat comfortably, I just need to keep it on a hat stretcher when I'm not wearing it. I had also gotten a 58 size Panama from Panama Bob and feel like that is also just a tad too tight, but still very wearable. If I had to order the hats again, I would have gotten a 59.

So my question is would a 59 be okay, or should I go ahead and just move up to a 60 and put some foam in the brim and let it shrink after a while? What would fit my head better in the long run? How much do the Federations shrink if you never keep them on a hat stretcher?
 

trestiton

New in Town
Messages
6
Location
Udine , Italy
The " strange " hat size

Circa the size of Fedora Federation IV hats , a contribution .
Some weeks ago I ordered A fed IV Hat in the 63 cm size . It arrived tagged " 63 " , but actual 61 cm !
I have 12 Akubra hats : never had size problems , but . . . in cauda venenum !

Trestiton
 

jthix

New in Town
Messages
48
Location
Alabama, USA
I was planning on ordering from hatsdirect.com, if that makes a difference. I think I've heard that they email you after you place the order letting you know the Federation runs small and ask if you want to size up. Is hatsdirect.com more reliable, then?
 

g.durand

One Too Many
Messages
1,896
Location
Down on the Bayou
I got my Fed IV Deluxe from hatsdirect.com, size 60, and it was a little bit large. There are other threads elsewhere on the Lounge that mention that the standard Fed IV runs a little small and the Deluxe version runs large. Hatsdirect send along some foam strips to downsize the hat if you need to. At first I used them, but after about two weeks of working it over to get it to look the way I wanted, it shrank. In fact it shrank the first time I put some steam to the crown and the brim, to a point where it was too small. It was most likely the leather sweat band that shrank. So I just steamed it and stretched it way down over my head for awhile, and it fit again. These are tough hats and can take a lot of re-shaping if you're so inclined. I measured my head and went by the directions on their website, and they sent me that size, no questions or communication from them other than to tell me it was on its way.
 

Blackthorn

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,567
Location
Oroville
I was planning on ordering from hatsdirect.com, if that makes a difference. I think I've heard that they email you after you place the order letting you know the Federation runs small and ask if you want to size up. Is hatsdirect.com more reliable, then?
If it were me, I'd measure my head, then send an email to them for advice on ordering. They're pretty customer oriented.
 
Messages
10,524
Location
DnD Ranch, Cherokee County, GA
I was planning on ordering from hatsdirect.com, if that makes a difference. I think I've heard that they email you after you place the order letting you know the Federation runs small and ask if you want to size up. Is hatsdirect.com more reliable, then?

Hatsdirect is the only source for the Federation IV. It is an exclusive model for them like the Heritage Deluxe Campdraft. Can't get them anywhere else...
 

Benzadmiral

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,815
Location
The Swamp
They were helpful both times I ordered a Fed, warning me to get a 57 instead of my usual 56. Both hats were a tiny bit big to start, but fitted fine with the foam inside the sweatband.
 

jthix

New in Town
Messages
48
Location
Alabama, USA
I wear a 7 5/8, measure 24" around. I have always ordered 61 Akubras = Campdrafts, Fed4, Bushman, etc.
Imperial grade Akubras do draw in some. Heritage not so much.

The standard Federation IV is the Imperial quality, correct (as opposed to the Deluxe)? So the standard is more prone to shrinking?
 

job

One Too Many
Messages
1,325
Location
Sanford N.C.
I have the Fed IV in moonstone and it was a perfect fit for a Akubra. That is to say that it had a tiny bit of room to conform to my head after some wearing. By the way it is a great hat.
 

trestiton

New in Town
Messages
6
Location
Udine , Italy
On Akubra Hats

Greetings to all ,
that Akubra hats was superb hats I had ( not necessary ) a confirmation from the owner of a renowned hattery in Milan ( Melegari , one of the finest ) : I asked him about a fine Fedora hat to buy ( 300 - 400 € ) , the answer was that he had a lot of fur felt cones with which build a Fedora , but perhaps no one with the consistency and quality of an Akubra hat ! He was amazed by the quality and finish of the Akubra felt and maximally by their prices !
With regard to the size problem, you should ask the seller to measure the actual inner circumference of the sweatband (David Morgan did ) .
Anyone tested the after sales service of Hatdirect ?
All the best to anyone .
 

Iain

New in Town
Messages
13
Location
East Yorkshire, UK
I measure exactly 58cm, I ordered my Fed IV as 59cm. When it arrived it seemed huge but after creasing and putting the foam strips in it was fine, I've since worn it in the rain several times and it's shrunk down to perfectly fit my head with the foam removed.
 

Woodfluter

Practically Family
Messages
784
Location
Georgia
Adding a bit to what GT Dean said:

I believe Hats Direct advises you toward a larger Fed because of the particular block used and the shrinkage of the Imperial grade (standard) felt, which others noted.
However, my experience is that the Heritage grade felt is *very* resistant to shrinkage, even when you deliberately try to make it shrink.
That's been my experience anyway. I've provided details of my torture of two of them elsewhere - won't bore you again.

I'd say to take their sizing advice if you're ordering a Fed in Imperial felt, but just get your "correct" measured size if getting the Deluxe.
From corresponding with them, I don't think the folks taking orders are congnizant of the difference in shrinkage.

Everyone has their own preferences, but I've never been comfortable with padding out the sweatband to make a hat fit.
It's sort of OK if very temporary I guess.

And yes, Akubra does make tough felts. Not of vintage characteristics but will take a beating and come out fine.
 

jthix

New in Town
Messages
48
Location
Alabama, USA
Did you order it yet? Or still just thinking about it?

Still just thinking about it. I actually have to go to the store and get another tape measure before I email them my measurments - can't find mine anywhere!

EDIT: okay, I'm measuring a little less than 59cm and sent them an email with my measurement. I might be ordering it as soon as I hear back from them! I'll hear what they have to say, but since I'm ordering the standard/imperial, I think I'm just going to go ahead and order a 60.
 
Last edited:

blazerbud

One of the Regulars
Messages
138
Location
Chattanooga, TN
Still just thinking about it. I actually have to go to the store and get another tape measure before I email them my measurments - can't find mine anywhere!

EDIT: okay, I'm measuring a little less than 59cm and sent them an email with my measurement. I might be ordering it as soon as I hear back from them! I'll hear what they have to say, but since I'm ordering the standard/imperial, I think I'm just going to go ahead and order a 60.

On any given day, I'm just under 59cm if dehydrated, and a little over 59cm if measuring the fattest part of my head, or before a haircut. 60 works good for me, and I have to say, did well without felt, does fine with felt, and the hat or my head grows or contracts with the temp outside. Who knows? Or maybe just my Ego.
 

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