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Evil Denim Los Angeles

resortes805

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Evil Denim is a reproduction vintage denim line created by the proprietor of Sneaky Tiki, the man also behind the reproduction vintage clothing line, Hollywood Rogue.

It's been years since Evil Denim's initial run of 1937 style buckleback repros. Now there back, offering '37 style selvedge jeans along with a rider's jacket cut from the same roll of 12 oz denim.

First up, the jacket.
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Instead of a straight copy of a Levi's type 1 jacket, the Evil Denim rider jacket features a lower single pocket with a cool chevron pocket flap.
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Continuing the western chevron theme, the rear shoulder yoke features a chevron as well.
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Of course, the front is triple pleated with donut buttons. the jacket also features a rear cinch belt.
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Selvedge line!
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resortes805

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I'll post a review of the jeans soon, which are being offered at two price points depending on the denim quality used.
IMG_1128.jpg


You can get the jeans or the jackets at Sneaky Tiki in Long Beach, or online on ebay.

A batch of this denim was stolen recently in a Christmas morning smash and grab, so beware of anyone other than Sneaky Tiki selling these jeans.
 

flat-top

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I just found these on eBay and I'm surprised at how reasonably priced the jeans and jackets are. I may have to pull the trigger!
 
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Edward

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Any link to the ebay store? Been trying to find them online since seeing them at Rhythm Riot in November. Intrigued by these at least.
 

majormajor

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V V nice :D

I've had to reject the Levi type 1 jacket because of the very small sleeve opening, which simply cuts into my armpits, and makes for a very uncomfortable fit.

The front pic of the jacket on the mannequin looks to have similarly very narrow cut sleeve openings.

Anyone have any experience of these jackets?
 
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resortes805

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The Jeans

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The jeans are pretty close to the 1937 501's: higher waisted with a full leg cut.
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Unlike the 501's, the rear cinch buckle sits below the belt line like 1940s Montgomery Ward's 101 jeans. All the rivets are present and accounted for, including the rear pocket and crotch rivets of the 1930s.
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Donut buttons with a WWII style laurel leaf top button.
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I initially wasn't planning on getting these jeans, as I have a small collection of repro dungarees already. However, I figured it would be nice to have a matching Rider outfit as these jeans are cut from the same roll of 12 oz selvedge denim as the jackets.

As has been mentioned, Sneaky Tiki is offering these jeans at two price points. The 'Superior Vintage Workwear' jeans are the ones featured in this thread and competitive to Freddie's Pinewood and Pike brothers, filling in a nice niche between contemporary mass produced Levi's and the higher-end LVC, Sugar Cane, RRL and etc. The 'Classic Vintage Workwear' jeans cost about half as much but aren't selvedge (instead, the seams are finished in white lining).

Now onto the gripes.

The jeans come in only one length: 36 inch inseam. Offering a standard inseam length certainly makes it easier for the business, and I am sure there are scores of tall guys happy about it, but I got a 29 inch inseam and only need a 32 inch inseam to get a decent turn-up cuff. Thankfully, I don't mind double-cuffing as I would prefer to leave the inseam unaltered in case I need to move these jeans along to someone else sometime in the future.

To shrink or not to shrink? I decided to buy my true to form size in both the jacket and pants and opted not to go the shrink to fit route. I shrunk fit both my non-LVC 201's and my LVC '33 501's and lost an inch or two in the rise which I found disappointing. The rise on the Evil's (which is an anagram of Levi's, in case you hadn't figured out yet) hits just below my navel and I don't want to it to go any lower. The jacket is longer in the body than I would prefer, but it is still short enough to give me a vintage look. I could shrink wash the jacket, but then that would give me an inconsistent tone when worn with the jeans as well as bring up the sleeve cuffs a little too high. Most of the Hollywood Rogue items are made with taller and bigger guys in mind (guys who have trouble finding vintage anyway) so this line is really no exception.

I will probably remove the label patch. While the jolly rogers and the 'Lot 666' are certainly novel, I'm just not that dangerous a guy, I guess. Additionally, I am considering removing the v-shaped arcuate on the back pockets. It looks a little contemporary for me, but I haven't made my mind up yet.
 
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Edward

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Great photos... these look exactly what I'm after. I love my Freddies 40s jeans. Looked at the Fifties model for something to wear with a belt (the braces studs on the 40s preclude that, and they don't do them without them), but those are narrower in the leg and lower in the waist than I prefer. These look ideal... hopefully I'll be able to catch them at an event over here in the next year or so, as the postage starts to push up the price a bit over my limit.

To shrink or not to shrink? I decided to buy my true to form size in both the jacket and pants and opted not to go the shrink to fit route. I shrunk fit both my non-LVC 201's and my LVC '33 501's and lost an inch or two in the rise which I found disappointing. The rise on the Evil's (which is an anagram of Levi's, in case you hadn't figured out yet) hits just below my navel and I don't want to it to go any lower. The jacket is longer in the body than I would prefer, but it is still short enough to give me a vintage look. I could shrink wash the jacket, but then that would give me an inconsistent tone when worn with the jeans as well as bring up the sleeve cuffs a little too high. Most of the Hollywood Rogue items are made with taller and bigger guys in mind (guys who have trouble finding vintage anyway) so this line is really no exception.

When you say shrink wash... are you talking about doing something in particular, or will a regular machine wash at 30 or 40 degrees shrink them?
 

majormajor

One Too Many
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UK
When you say shrink wash... are you talking about doing something in particular, or will a regular machine wash at 30 or 40 degrees shrink them?

I think "shrink wash" is just a regular wash and spin, which will cause some shrinkage in the length, as opposed to a cold water soak/drip dry, which shouldn't.

Landed price in the UK, allowing for getting stung for duty and tax, works out at around £125, which is a fair price compared with the Japanese stuff:D;)
 

majormajor

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@resortes805 - Do you have the jacket yet? If so, what's your view on the underarm fitting?
 

Edward

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I think "shrink wash" is just a regular wash and spin, which will cause some shrinkage in the length, as opposed to a cold water soak/drip dry, which shouldn't.

Mn, so I'd probably be best erring on the side of caution with the waistband measurement then...

Landed price in the UK, allowing for getting stung for duty and tax, works out at around £125, which is a fair price compared with the Japanese stuff:D;)

Still a fair whack up over Freddie's, though. (Wish they'd do their Forties model sans the braces studs! Asked them about this on their FB wall, but I think it got missed. I'm sure they're busy enough!). I can sell myself on spending eighty quid on a pair of jeans, but £125 is just a bit too much for me... I'm starting to think I need to very carefully target my next US holiday... either that or wait for the dollar to crash and a return to the glory days of 2006/7! USD 2.20 to the pound... ah, now that was wonderful....
 

resortes805

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I think "shrink wash" is just a regular wash and spin, which will cause some shrinkage in the length, as opposed to a cold water soak/drip dry, which shouldn't.

Yes, this is what I meant.

If you look at the first picture in the thread, I am raising my arm, so you can get a look at the sleeve opening. The sleeves are cut higher than modern fits, but I don't find it binding.

Edward, if you are interested in these jeans, keep an eye on the rockabilly weekenders, either Nick or Big Ed are usually at the major ones, and I was told that they will be doing another production run. Otherwise, you could buy the Freddie's and just pry off the suspender buttons.
 

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