Ever see this detail in a suit?

[reetpleat]

I was a dealer and have been a collector and afficionado for fifteen years, but I have never before seen tis detail on a suit. It seems to be late thirties or forties. It is a kind of pleat in the front of the jacket. Frankly, it isn't particularly flattering, which is why it never caught on I guess. It is a suit at a local vintage shop. Not my size and not cheap. Nice suit otherwise, but not for me. But I thought I would share a pic anyway. Damn camera phones don't shoot so well in the dark.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

That's strange. Maybe unfinished or unpicked darts?

bk

 

[scotrace]

Looks like ravelling darts!

 

[reetpleat]

My first thought was some kind of unraveling but if you think about it, it would just get worse if you wre trying to continue the stitching up. You would end up with a big pucker.

That and it has two on each side all the same.

I think it was an attempt at doing abelted back athletic thing, but didn't work out.

When I first saw it I assumed it was belted back, but no luck there. Belted back with these would have been a buy.

Odd think gis it was not tailor made but manufactured, so htere must be more out there.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

did you get a full length shot of the jacket?

bk

 

[herringbonekid]

there was an early 30s suit on ebay last year that had something very silmilar. it was a pale colour bespoke suit with loads of unusual features. the jacket had smile-shaped pockets and action back. three button waistband on the trousers if i remember correctly. Marc will remember the one i'm talking about.

i'm sure i've seen this on some 1920s suits too, but i can't find any photos to prove it.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

was that the 'holy grail of 30s suits" one? I remember that distinctly. What an amazing suit it was . . .

bk

 

[reetpleat]

was that the 'holy grail of 30s suits" one? I remember that distinctly. What an amazing suit it was . . .

bk

Anyone know hwat happened to it?

I will grab a pic of the suit next time I am in the shop.

It is just sitting there. It is a nice three piece for about aseventy I think. I might have bought it but not my size. Nice blue greenish color too. But a little too pricey unless it was belted back.

Maybe the guy asked for a darted back and the tailor was dyslexic.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

sold for about $600. I think it went to fujiyamacharoll but i'm not so sure about that.

bk

 

[herringbonekid]

was that the 'holy grail of 30s suits" one? I remember that distinctly. What an amazing suit it was . . .

bk

yes, it was either ivory or pale blue.
i would bet Marc saved pictures of it before the ebay link died.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

i have pics but not in a postable form (in my word document suit picture archive). I recall it being very light grey with an overcheck, maybe. And all the crazy darts in the front that on first glance would convince you it was a woman's jacket.

bk

 

[herringbonekid]

i found one photo here:

http://thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=5124&page=3&highlight=holy+grail

but Marc's photos aren't loading. the darts are different anyway. don't have that baggy top. much cleaner.

 

[benstephens]

fftopic: Baron, Are you in London at the moment?

Kindest Regards

Ben

 

[reetpleat]

One of the illustrations at the beginning of that thread seems to show an open dart in the chest. Just one. Or am I looking at ti wrong?

On that note, it occurs to me that as far as that thread goes, a suit combining all thebest details of suits would look ridiculous I think.

Honestly, I used to know a guy who would wear a two tone gaberdine jacket with a hawaiian shirt, and flashy pants, spectators, and straw hat. I kind of thought it was too much of a good thing. One flashy element on a background of basics usually works best.

I remeber John Whatshisname, the old dealer in the bay area who passed a few years ago. I am sure some of you must know of him.

He used to say, flashy suit, simple tie. simple suit, flashy tie.

Makes sense to me.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

this one?

bk

 

[Baron Kurtz]

On that note, it occurs to me that as far as that thread goes, a suit combining all thebest details of suits would look ridiculous I think.

See the "jazz suit" in the Nathan Marsak collection thread. Abominable is not the word.

bk

 

[reetpleat]

this one?

bk

Is it just me. As much as I dig these iullustrations from the thirties, they often to exagerate the shoulders, which I don't mind, but ofthe the hats look way out of proportion. Granted, in reality they probably look more proportional, but for example, in this pic, doesn't the hat look kind of silly with the shoulders?

 

[The Wingnut]

I remeber John Whatshisname, the old dealer in the bay area who passed a few years ago. I am sure some of you must know of him.

He used to say, flashy suit, simple tie. simple suit, flashy tie.

Makes sense to me.

Absolutely! This is the first time I've heard this, but I practice it without thinking about it...my pinstriped DB suits usually end up combined with a subtle '30s brocade...my tan '40s SB gets to play with all of the wild '40s prints. The simple suits need some pizazz, the bolder ones don't need anything else.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Is it just me. As much as I dig these iullustrations from the thirties, they often to exagerate the shoulders, which I don't mind, but ofthe the hats look way out of proportion. Granted, in reality they probably look more proportional, but for example, in this pic, doesn't the hat look kind of silly with the shoulders?

In my opinion, yes. The super wide shoulders and massive amounts of fabric in the chest area make his head - even with a fedora on it - look ridiculously small. This became a real issue when people took the "English drape" aesthetic to the extreme we see here. Incidentally, m major problem with modern suits is the apparent obsession with shoulders tht are too wide and too much fabric through the body. Combine this with skinny trousers and you have a very strange silhouette.

bk

 

[Jovan]

Unless you're talking about your average off the rack suit from a department store, I haven't noticed this at all. The fashion right now seems to go back to the '60s.

I can't say I like those pleats on the front or shoulders. It messes up the lines.