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Ebay Hats: Victories, Defeats, Gripes & Items of Interest

carter

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,921
Location
Corsicana, TX
just_me said:
Hi. Derbys are still sometimes worn in the hunt field with a hat cord. Because they're not really helmets and don't protect the head in a fall, many people don't wear them anymore and opt for a helmet in the hunt cap style.

This is my first post here. Hope it's ok.

Yep, it's OK. Welcome to the lounge, just_me. Glad you could join us. :)
 

HatDoc

One of the Regulars
Messages
174
Location
Atlanta, GA
Dinerman said:
That Open Road's a Canadian one. Interesting the little differences on the inside.

I bid on that one. Didn't quite know what it was, with the different liner art and the script "Open Road". Is that the only clue that it's Canadian?
 

britishink

New in Town
Messages
16
Location
Wsahington DC
These are the auction photos of my latest buy, I'll take some of it being worn when it gets here.

FEDORA3.jpg


FEDORA2.jpg


FEDORA5.jpg
 

Lefty

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,639
Location
O-HI-O
Just because he's not online at the moment, I'll tell you two of the things that dinerman has taught me about American vs. Canadian Stetsons. First is Aquashed - it's only for Canadian Stetsons. Apparently, we Americans like our hats to absorb, not shed water. There's also the size tag. The number itself is in a different style of font, the shape of the tag tends to be square, and I believe that he said it is often foil, but I'm not sure if I'm remembering that one correctly.

HatDoc said:
I bid on that one. Didn't quite know what it was, with the different liner art and the script "Open Road". Is that the only clue that it's Canadian?
 

Ande1964

Practically Family
Messages
556
Location
Kansas
Nuts!

Wow... knowing that I missed that Dunhill really ruins my morning. Damn!

If anyone here bought it, please let me know if you would consider selling or trading.

Anj
 

Dinerman

Super Moderator
Bartender
Messages
10,562
Location
Bozeman, MT
Lefty said:
Just because he's not online at the moment, I'll tell you two of the things that dinerman has taught me about American vs. Canadian Stetsons. First is Aquashed - it's only for Canadian Stetsons. Apparently, we Americans like our hats to absorb, not shed water. There's also the size tag. The number itself is in a different style of font, the shape of the tag tends to be square, and I believe that he said it is often foil, but I'm not sure if I'm remembering that one correctly.
Yep- that's about it.

The Aquashed marking was only used on Canadian made hats, don't know whether the processing was actually any different than American models, but you only see that logo on Canadian models.
The size tags are the same shape and style on American and Canadian hats, the round tag with the notches at the base, but on American models, at least post '30s, it was printed on manila cardstock. On Canadian hats, it was done in gold foil with black printing.
The reorder tags are different, but that's not visible on this hat.

The oval shape (extra long oval) is stamped on the sweatband, to the left of the crest. I think this was only done on Canadian models, as well.

The seller is also from Canada, so it makes even more sense.
 

carter

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,921
Location
Corsicana, TX
Nice fedoras!

Britishink, That is a very nice Biltmore Beaver. Is the color winter white or a light grey?

FEDORA2.jpg


Lefty, Nice Dunhill. I've never seen one either.
 

Brad Bowers

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,187
My C&K Derby

Well, here's the eBay $9.99 Crofut & Knapp De-Luxe Clear Argentine Nutria Derby.

First, a few words:

The felt is amazingly thin for as stiff as it is. I figured Derbies would have a thicker felt. The top is almost paper thin, and reminds me of a snare drum head or something.

The finish is excrutiatingly close. I say excrutiatingly because I can't imagine how long it took them to get such a finish on it.

This is a Knapp-Felt De-Luxe, which is their top-of-the-line hat, selling for $6.00.

The ribbon has unfinished edges on the ends, making me think that Cavanagh picked up this particular treatment for his own brand from C&K.

I believe this hat dates to around the first decade of the 20th century, judging by several things. The only reference I've found to date for "Vellum Finish" is in an April 1907 ad. It gives the sweat a feel almost of soft rubber, though it is leather. The logo used in the hat is one they used early on, and I've shown an ad (the second ad) from 1906 that has the same logo, though it's very tiny (on either side of the words "Knapp-Felt").

The sweatband adjusts on the left side, and not the back, interestingly enough. Note that it's unreeded.

Underneath the sweatband is a "United Hatters of North America" sticker, which places the hat sometime before 1934, before the formation of the United Hatters, Cap, and Millinery union.

In the crown tip sticker and on the sweatband there is a little picture of a swimming nutria. He's also stamped on the sweatband.

CKDerby1.jpg


CKDerby2.jpg


CKDerby3.jpg


McClureAdApril1907.jpg


CKDerby1906.jpg


The hat is perched on a size 6 1/2 block in the top photo, so it is truly a tiny hat.

Below, the hat is perched on a size 7 3/8 block(head).lol

Me1.jpg


All in all, this is a really exciting find for me, and something I'm proud to add to my collection, even if it is too small to wear. They say John Cavanagh liked to keep his hand in brim curling throughout his entire career, so it's always possible that he curled this one.

Brad
 

GWD

One Too Many
Messages
1,642
Location
Evergreen, Co
Wow! I didn't realize that bowlers are supposed to fit that high on the head. That ad looks like it sits 4 inches above the ears.
 
GWD said:
Wow! I didn't realize that bowlers are supposed to fit that high on the head. That ad looks like it sits 4 inches above the ears.

The style of wearing a bowler as such has changed over time. However, there is a bit of artistic license being used there. My grandfather's bowler for the early part of last century fit him high on the head but not that high. ;) :p
 

carter

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,921
Location
Corsicana, TX
Wear it with panache

jamespowers said:
The style of wearing a bowler as such has changed over time. However, there is a bit of artistic license being used there. My grandfather's bowler for the early part of last century fit him high on the head but not that high. ;) :p
i.e.
bowler-main.jpg
paulstrandbowlerhat.jpg
oliver-hardy-1-sized.jpg
 

Brad Bowers

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,187
carter said:

Seeing those photos makes me wonder if you could tell a particular manufacturer's hat just by the curl. Probably not, but there might have been distinct differences in the shackles they used. Then again, since they were all curled by hand, perhaps the curl was sort of an individual curler's signature.

Brad
 

Lefty

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,639
Location
O-HI-O
Brad Bowers said:
Well, here's the eBay $9.99 Crofut & Knapp De-Luxe Clear Argentine Nutria Derby.

This is a Knapp-Felt De-Luxe, which is their top-of-the-line hat, selling for $6.00.

For a hat that's around 100 years old, and in incredible condition, you almost paid the original price! :eusa_clap

That side adjusting sweat is very interesting. Did you find anything behind it (tags, signatures, cash, etc.)?
 

Brad Bowers

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,187
Lefty said:
For a hat that's around 100 years old, and in incredible condition, you almost paid the original price! :eusa_clap

That side adjusting sweat is very interesting. Did you find anything behind it (tags, signatures, cash, etc.)?

Just the size/block/reorder tag, and union label.

Oh, and two strips of felt to make the hat even smaller!lol This guy must have had a really small head, or else this was for a young man or child.

Tags1.jpg


Tags2.jpg


Brad
 

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